@No.3 , tikkas front base screws holes DO NOT interfere with the barrel thread at all.
I'll see if this ticklers your interest. Done a few for a mate...
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Seekins is now using the same system pretty much on all their new rifles .
No need to overcomplicate this. You wouldn't even need a full blast barrel vice and action wrench if you get a gunsmith to pull the tikka barrel the first time (I am in Papakura and can do this for you). Factory barrels are massively over-torqued to what is actually required in normal use.
Buy or make a vice jaw that holds the barrels firmly and wont scratch them. It does not need to be grunt as you are not planning to pull factory barrels with it, so would work fine in a bench vice.
Then get a bolt raceway action wrench that extends far enough out the back of the action to get a torque wrench on it. Again, since you are not wrenching off factory barrels, no risk of damaging the receiver with this wrench.
This way you can change barrels without removing the optic or stock from the rifle. Torque of around 70-80 ft/lbs is plenty and will not stress a bench vice based barrel vice at all.
Plenty of PRS and benchrest guys doing exactly this.
I went to town this morning and couldn't help myself, had to see what was on sale! Well I managed to escape with all my money but the visit prompted an idea . . . . I've been missing my 6mm CM hunting rifle, and I recalled the barrel was still in good condition in the safe. Additionally my extremely good 308 barrel is in a hunting style action with only a "satisfactory" trigger. At the far end of the rack was a Savage "target" action behind a 224 Valkyrie barrel. I don't shoot this anymore as I haven't found the ballistic gains of the 224 V over a 223 are worth the pain of the occasional feed issues.
So here they all are:
The first step was breaking loose the 224V barrel nut, and it let go pretty easy. The longest stage of the process was removing the stock and scope mount, I need to shorten its rail so the barrel nut tool will fit with the rail on.
Next was to remove the 308 barrel, easy since I'd fitted it myself.
On with the 6mm CM barrel, set headspace with a fired case and the field guage, I like to have the bolt quite snug on the fired case, but not closing on a field guage. Later on with the rifle able to be pointed in a safe direction a final check with live ammo was made.
Back in the stock, scope fitted and it's ready to be sighted in. The 308 will have to wait as I'm short of the correct bolt baffle, it's different to the 224V one, so even though I have the correct bolt head it's not practical to fit yet.
Took less than an hour . . . Mostly spent retrieving all the tools I needed haha
Last edited by Tentman; 15-03-2025 at 05:35 PM.
No reason I can't do one. This was a Defiance. Done remintions too. Normally I pin them to the action.
Barrel is just spun in hand tight and then locked as the customer wanted. I think a torque setting would be nice. Small hex could be put on the barrel muzzle potentially.
CNC Machining
Hgprecision.net
Do we have a gun smith in Auckland? That’s real good to know…
Im now setup in Papakura, can do drop off/pickup outside business hours. Feel free to PM me or email at BlackstrandNZ@gmail.com. Doing most types of work other than stock making and hot bluing.
@robhughes-games mate that's awesome, definitely interested!
@SixtyTen that's exactly what I was thinking. Right, think I need to get my ass into gear and scrape together some funds to get this build underway
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