Thread: .303 Refurbish

Hello all,
Me and my mate are thinking of refurbishing his grandad's No.4 Mk1 that he inherited. Our idea was to make up a custom stock and full length fore-end from Jarrah or some other hard wood, we're not too worried about weight because its unlikely that we would use it for hunting. Wondering if anyone has had experience making custom stocks out of hard wood and has any warnings or tips before we mess it up.
Cheers

is it an original one or a sporter if its original id leave it pretty much alone except for a clean up. Also if original and your not familiar with how to take it apart get someone to show you there's a few little tricks that could save you wrecking something.

#4 wood is not as rare as it's earlier brothers. Keep a close eye on Trade Me for original and replica's

https://tinyurl.com/yyf45u2f

https://tinyurl.com/yyt3nu99

and don't overlook that you will need replacement metal fittings as well if you are ghoing to return it to "Full Wood". If not, just buy another #4 that has been butchered and change the wood over.

I suggest you leave it alone as an example of what it is. Generally the modifications you have mentioned will only reduce both the value (not very much to be sure) and the historical significance. Futhermore, hardwoods are totally unsuitable for gunstocks. The best timbers are walnut or beech, both being suitable and easy to work with but walnut is the best and has the nicest grain. Nothing buggers a good old firearm faster than someone 'improving' it!

Originally Posted by northdude

is it an original one or a sporter if its original id leave it pretty much alone except for a clean up. Also if original and your not familiar with how to take it apart get someone to show you there's a few little tricks that could save you wrecking something.

Originally Posted by Kiwi Sapper

#4 wood is not as rare as it's earlier brothers. Keep a close eye on Trade Me for original and replica's

https://tinyurl.com/yyf45u2f

https://tinyurl.com/yyt3nu99

and don't overlook that you will need replacement metal fittings as well if you are ghoing to return it to "Full Wood". If not, just buy another #4 that has been butchered and change the wood over.

Originally Posted by gundoc

I suggest you leave it alone as an example of what it is. Generally the modifications you have mentioned will only reduce both the value (not very much to be sure) and the historical significance. Futhermore, hardwoods are totally unsuitable for gunstocks. The best timbers are walnut or beech, both being suitable and easy to work with but walnut is the best and has the nicest grain. Nothing buggers a good old firearm faster than someone 'improving' it!

Righto thanks team,
It is a sporter and we have all the metal fittings to make it full wood again. We will ditch the hardwood idea cheers @gundoc . We will definitely keep the sported stock thats on it now so that if it goes sideways we can return it to the original state. Obviously we wouldn't be doing this if it was a prime condition rifle, it already has been modified from original when it was sported so not super concerned about historical significance. Its a rifle that's not worth heaps and a nice wee project for us but worst comes to worst we can reverse it to how it is now.

or you could go in other direction and fit a ATI plastic/synthetic stock to it....looks to be pretty much a simple job to do so....nothing wrong with a 303 for bush hunting rifle,if it will group anything like decently(4" or better) any deer under 200yards will be in big trouble.
that way you have rifle as spare...or wet weather...or just going for walk....or loan to good mate WITH LICENCE.....or just because.

Actually, most of the lee enfield stocks were made from hardwoods, often peach, apple and pear boles. Stronger clubs than walnut.

I have just recently restored a No4 Mk1 using a full stock of trade me from a NZ manufacturer. I am also going to do the same with a SMLE but I must admit that if I can find a couple of sporting woods for both ( they didn't come with any orginally) I would be keen to take them both out for a walk.
If I keep the distance to 200m I dont think either would have trouble with cleanly taking an animal but just being out with the old rifles does appeal.

@Mauser308 dredging the memory bank from 5th from woodwork suggests its cell structure.
Round v square? Yes balsa is a hardwood

@hamish9701

Do you have photos of what it looks like now?

I'd only bother 'restoring it' , ie putting it back to what would be original war time appearance if the receiver hasn't been drilled for a scope mount and the barrel is still decent.
If it has been drilled, leave as is and keep it as a sporter.

@dogmatix
Nah no photos sorry, my mate has it at the moment. There isn't any drill holes and the rifling looks in decent nick, its not a prime condition rifle but it is my mate's grandad's so 'restoring' it is worth some personal significance at least.

Originally Posted by csmiffy

@Mauser308 dredging the memory bank from 5th from woodwork suggests its cell structure.
Round v square? Yes balsa is a hardwood

and miro...is a softwood LMFAO had discussion on that one with woodwork teacher,just goes to shot no pigeon hole is perfect.

I used linseed based artists oil paints in lots (and lots) of thin turps washes as the stain to match the repro stock to the original wood for my No1Mk3*.