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Hi What would be the best twist rate for a 22" .50 cal barrel. I see Marlin and Winchester have a .500" S W M with a 1-24" twist rate so could be ok as they shoot pistol bullets, its a pistol cartridge. The .50 Alaskan is a nasty beast with heaver slugs so could go 1-20" to stabilise heaver slugs. So the question is if I was to make a .5!0" bore barrel for someone's project what twist would you choose. ;)
the easiest one to machine......
I'd go 1:20, you can still shoot 'lightweight' bullets and big heavy leads.
Greenhills Formula will give you the twist calculation for those big bores
"Greenhills formula" Aww, think I know, baby food, gotcher, and now all the A R little bangers are being squashed your new projects will have to be big bangers. I mean one 500gr slug will do more damage than a burst A R .223 stuff.Maybe I should knock up a few 25ldr barrels, really get into the heavy stuff. :thumbsup:
You would need a bigger lathe
I don`t think so, the mere fact that I`m making barrels on a lathe says it all, there is no such thing as "Can't do it" . I have drilled and rifled a .500" barrel, but I Stuffed it up by cutting only six groves, looks crap, so have made a seven grove rifling register disc for the next one, keep looking in F S box.
How do you divide a circle by 7?
7 Equal part I meant
carefullyQuote:
Originally Posted by Friwi
thats how hedgehogs have a bonk......
360/7=51.4 degrees
Or can do it using tec drawing very easy, look it up.
I`S not so technical, find a 42 tooth gear and drill a hole every forth one, easy-peasy. Also may be able to fix up the six grove .510" barrel, have made up a new T/C cutter that's 0.133" wide so the lands and groves will be the same, that's .510"x pie / divided by 12 =0.133" . So reset barrel up in lathe and recut rifling then a good polish. It`s still not to the standed .50cal, should be drilled hole =.492", ream to .494" cut rifle 0.003" deep =.500" bore. My drill leaves a hole of .5009", bugger, so has to be for lead bullets only as jacketed ones are .500" dia my bore is .510" =.511/12" bullets. the number 7 rifling disc
.Attachment 115924
thats awesome
If you are boring and rifling barrels, how difficult would it be to rebore a factory rifle barrel to 33 or 35cal?
Sorry bill, I`m only drilling barrels from solid stock with the three gun drills I have, a .420"/.430", .444"/.457", .500"/.510". For that you would need a piloted reamer.
brew ya old bugger -can you give me specs for a barrel resembling a politicians areshole/brain. could you also direct me to specs for reloading -weight of faecal charge ,amount of gas generated ,and finally impact in terms of paperwork??Quote:
Originally Posted by homebrew.357
reality -nup no need to worry they wouldnt know it if it leapt up and bit em on their fat arses.
I was thinking the original would act like a pilot hole, hard case that a solid rod is easier.Quote:
Originally Posted by homebrew.357
or is it that you drill then center off your bore hole?
The barrel is rifled, so any drill will go bumping down it over the old rifling and probably stuff it up and a gun drill cuts only on one side . My take on it would be to make up an armours "D" bit, bore the breech end to just over bore size in a bit and make the bit to just fit in. Setup in lathe and with plenty of cutting oil slowly cut out all the rifling in one go. Then ream to required bore size and recut rifling. Speaking of recutting the rifling, I have just done that, so putting the money in :o here`s the 22" .510" bore Elephant gun barrel with six groves cut rifling at 1-24" twist .
Attachment 117283, A .500" gun drill tip, cuts one side.
Attachment 117284 , 22"long Attachment 117285, The new recut six grove rifling, bad pic.
So seeing I got the rifling wrong with the first one I made another one, this time I cut rifled it with seven groves and looks a lot better . Again 22" long and bore is .510" with a twist of 1-24", so I`ve got a spare one. ;).
Attachment 120851, Looks a lot better with seven groves.
