Thread: Advice Please:: Overhauling a Stock

Looking at giving the first rifle I bought abit of love... Who's reoiled their stocks, reblued their actions etc.
I'm a retard when it comes to working with wood, but utube makes it look easy, but I want a decent result at the same time. Reblue it or ceracote... Much difference in cost?

Or who does a good job start to finish and how many kids would I need to sell.
Only keeping it for sentimental reasons really, but I reckon the wood should come up ok, and it's starting to shoot straight again, now I've found something it likes

they are a beautiful rifle Mate and it deserves some love..... the reblue job could easy be done locally and woodwork isnt hard to do your self....good cleanup and handrub in some half decent oil and it will spring to life....bit of hot water on a flanel will raise any dents and light sanding with steel wool will take off any furry wood grain that pops out.
local gunsmith Bradley does a pretty good job from the work Ive seen.TJ on the other pub really knows how to bring a stock to life.and probably would do the blue at same time.

whatever you like between bluing and ceracoat.
Proper bluing a little dearer, but ceracoat way more rust resistant and you can get different colours. your call
Definitely don't stress about the stock. Like @Micky Duck said hot water/steam for the dents and steel wool, although on my project I'm going to try the green scourer pads for a bit just for shits and giggles
Tru-oil is pretty easy but I reckon it gives a bit of a varnish look to me but that's just me and how I've done them in the past
I'm going to try some Danish oil for starters and then finish with tru oil on the last couple of coats.

A piece of glass is pretty good for removing those old finishes.
Use it as a scraper.

birchwood casey "tru-oil" and beeswax finish over the top.

I've been using this "Scherell's SCHAFTOL Stock Oil" with great results. About $20 for a bottle that will last years and you can buy it in different shades depending on how light or dark you want your finish. I used a white spirit to clean off old grime/oil.

Laurie Bradley in Timbuktu for the stock work, he can recut the checkering while he's at it. Ceracote in socom blue for a rust proof finish.

Originally Posted by Mathias

Laurie Bradley in Timbuktu for the stock work, he can recut the checkering while he's at it. Ceracote in socom blue for a rust proof finish.

I wasn't to sure if Laurie was still operating. If he's any good, he should remember selling it to me almost 30 yr ago when he was in Canon Street

I have CF2 and my vote would be for bead blasting and Parkerising the metalwork

Originally Posted by Fireflite

I've been using this "Scherell's SCHAFTOL Stock Oil" with great results. About $20 for a bottle that will last years and you can buy it in different shades depending on how light or dark you want your finish. I used a white spirit to clean off old grime/oil.

@Fireflite
Yeah I asked you about this awhile back. My only concern was from my research is that it didn't seem very water resistant. Have you found this or has it worked well outside?

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Originally Posted by csmiffy

@Fireflite
Yeah I asked you about this awhile back. My only concern was from my research is that it didn't seem very water resistant. Have you found this or has it worked well outside?

I've only had the rifle out in drizzle not a down pour! Doesn't seem to change colour (milky or spots) when getting damp/wet. I always give my rifles a good clean after I've had them out, even plastic/SS ones.

Originally Posted by Fireflite

I've only had the rifle out in drizzle not a down pour! Doesn't seem to change colour (milky or spots) when getting damp/wet. I always give my rifles a good clean after I've had them out, even plastic/SS ones.

I do a fair bit of stock work and bluing as well but with the oil that Fiteflite uses I like to give the wood about 20 odd coats and then use danish oil to finish it off. The Danish is waterproof. I am not into a shiny finish so I rub the Danish and leave for a couple of minutes and then rub it off with net curtain material. Do this about 20 times as well and it gives a very nice deep finish. I could do the bluing for you but it would cost a few bucks to get sent by courier both ways.

I home brewed a roughly 60/40 mix of beeswax and linseed oil. Melted together in a jar resting in a pot of almost boiling water (double boiler?). Rubbed in linseed straight a bunch of coats then buffed the mix in a lot more coats. Came up a real nice satin and water runs straight off. Time will tell how well it holds up but was just for something to do.

Originally Posted by Preacher

I home brewed a roughly 60/40 mix of beeswax and linseed oil. Melted together in a jar resting in a pot of almost boiling water (double boiler?). Rubbed in linseed straight a bunch of coats then buffed the mix in a lot more coats. Came up a real nice satin and water runs straight off. Time will tell how well it holds up but was just for something to do.

That works as well but there are better products on the market that give a far better finish. A good linseed finish takes a hell of a lot of time. The old gunsmiths used to submerge the stock into a vat. One thing I refuse to do is to use True Oil