Carport Cladding into garage

Hey fellas

Im looking at buying a house that has a fairly sturdy carport about 3mx6m i geuss about 2.8m high
Looking at the composite stuff at bunnings ill be spending about $$5k on cladding the sides and back and then a door with a frame etc form toolpro is about $1300

Anyone got any cheaper suggestions for cladding a carport into a garage, it will be used for my trailer, kids toys, gym stuff etc so want to get it nice and watertight

Im OK to pay the above plus a few $k in consumables, misc bits etc but keen to explore any cost savings


Not to worried to discuss consent, title etc issues on this forum. I'm pretty familiar with it

decent second hand iron - new paint job possibility ? its what I would look at - I have seen people use heavy galv wire netting and weave aluminium slats thru it - look okay

colour steel horizontal 4 sheets high use internal box corner flashing , looks much sharper and use the white tyvec wrap under direct screw to posts/ studs and lots of colour choices .

QS here - have you looked at corrugated iron (vertically laid) on a timber frame? It's a bit of a pain to flash the door but "cost effective".
Being in Hamilton, it might be worth having a look at 3 brothers (threebrothershamilton.co.nz) and see what options they have, on special.

Do you need a building concent?

Or if your district plan allows it as an auxiliary building without concent does it still need to comply with the building code ?

Just questions you should consider

He covered that in the first post...

Depending on how you interpret the rules, it's of a size that allows you to basically do whatever you want provided you don't foul some of the add on requirements that Hamilton has.

But, the one thing I'd suggest is looking at everything you have with a good stink eye for the permanence of it - meaning putting in a lot of effort only to find out that something core to the setup isn't as good as expected and falls over at the first hurdle. Having been down this track a couple of times, its a pain in the arse when you discover that what looked good and solid isn't and requires a major rework and reverse engineering session to sort it out. Frustrating and can be expensive and blow out your budget when it could be simpler and easier to remove and replace structural stuff completely at the start under a 'like for like' excuse I mean work scope and allow for future use changes or even expanding the carport's footprint at a later date...

As far as materials, good question well asked as I've done the similar thing with a few building projects around my place - saved multiple thousands of $$$ at the expense of time and labour costs to make what was cheap work. Sometimes it can work very well and if you can pick up suitable second hand (or even better new but rejected for some reason parts - roller doors are a good one here, got one for $500 been installed into a new build but was wrong colour so replaced after a few days) and adjust your build plans to fit the sizing of what you got cheap the old story 'how would they know' really does apply!

Greetings,
My concern would be that there is no damp proof course under the concrete floor. How much a problem this might be would depend on your soil conditions.
GPM.

Tan ply with beading over the joins?
You can sometimes get ply 2.7m L for vertical fixing

It's a good brace element too

Quote:

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Originally Posted by grandpamac

Greetings,
My concern would be that there is no damp proof course under the concrete floor. How much a problem this might be would depend on your soil conditions.
GPM.

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Along with GPM's concern, how do you intend to prevent water ingress at floor level? If the carport already has a raised concrete floor, then all good. But if all the surrounding area has been brought up to the same height, its a bit more of an issue.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by akaroa1

Do you need a building concent?

Or if your district plan allows it as an auxiliary building without concent does it still need to comply with the building code ?


Just questions you should consider

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Under 30 m2

Quote:

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Originally Posted by XR500

Along with GPM's concern, how do you intend to prevent water ingress at floor level? If the carport already has a raised concrete floor, then all good. But if all the surrounding area has been brought up to the same height, its a bit more of an issue.

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Not ideal, but with todays products you could seal the concrete

Steel is cold, used a plywood of some sort, unless you can line inside with an insulated air gap

Old roller doors to clad it and one of those 150$ diesel/ waste oil burners ;)

Greetings again,
There are a couple of other things you may want consider. Carport roofs are often fixed very flat. This makes the useful life of the roof shorter (30 to 40 years) and more prone to leaks. This doesn't matter that much for carports as they are more sunshades than umbrellas. The roofing is often fixed without any breather paper under it. In an enclosed space with water ingress at ground level and possibly through the slab condensation is likely to be rife. These things can be fixed of course but it all adds to the bill and a conversion may not look so cheap any more. I worked as a draughtsman and in building management for about 50 years and sorted out more than one unfortunate building project.
Regards Grandpamac.

To answer the question you actually asked I've done it with ply the couple of times I've done it. I would also go and look at your local demo yard and see if they have anything that might work, you might be in the right place at the right time....

Firstly my resume, NZ trained LBP builder with more years under my belt than I care to remember. Following the adage of do it right, do it once....
Firstly, if it's a carport then I'm going to assume the floor is level with surrounding ground, water ingress WILL be an issue, lay a topping slab 100mm concrete, with black polythene underneath, if you want to go wild, incorporate some 50mm sheet polystyrene insulation under the slab (but on top of the poly) this will make a HUGE difference to warmth and keeping rising damp at bay (which will attack anything inside your garage over time)
Framing, you can either use std 4x2 H3.2 (above code but it'll last for ever and never rot out so worth the slightly extra spend) and if you're going to line it then you may as well insulate the walls too. For cladding I'd go vertical corrugate (flashing openings is tricky) but it'll last for and look good for ages and there's always corrugate going cheap on fb marketplace (don't forget to use a compatible underlay, this'll stop the iron sweating on the inside)
Thats how I'd do it, it won't be "cheap" but it will be cost effective and done properly it'll last and give you a dry enclosed space, oh and for roller doors, get a s/h one, cheap as chips and not much can go wrong with them, I used one on my "shed" $200 off of marketplace, don't forget the rebate in topping slab for roller door, otherwise you'll have an outdoor/indoor flow you won't appreciate :thumbsup:

As for consents etc, which you said you're not too fussed about, you may find the following useful:
https://www.building.govt.nz/project...building-work/