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Thread: Emergency Services Rescue Knife

  1. #1
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    Emergency Services Rescue Knife

    I play in the shed in my retirement making things to keep me occupied and for the last couple of years knives seem to have been the main item of interest
    Full youtube video on the Emergency Services Rescue knife I have just completed.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=febS...annel=VonGruff

  2. #2
    NRT
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    Great work,.

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    Quote Originally Posted by berg243 View Post
    nice . like the belt grinder set up , think i might have to copy that as it looks to work well and gives a lot of options for belt angles.
    All home built so a simple but effective design

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    Quote Originally Posted by berg243 View Post
    what is the idea about wrapping the steel in tinfoil for the heat treating? didnt realise that kydex stuff was that easy to use , might have to get some for making a axe sheath for hanging on the quad.
    This is NitroV stainless and the stainless foil prevents decarb during the 10 minutes at 1955F - 1066C that it is subject to in the hardening process. For the carbon steel the time at heat in the 1500F - 860C range is only a short time till decalesence takes place so the decarb and scale is not a problem although to save any the blade can be coated with ATP-641 Anti-Scale Compound from Gameco
    As far as the kydex is concerned I have found that my shed oven is one of the full function small ovens and I set it at 135c and when it reaches that temp the kydex is ready to form.
    berg243 likes this.

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    I have got a local guy who will take one to the AOS for evaluation and another I will send to my agent in the US to his local SWAT team so will wait for what these guys say before changing anything.
    I think there are differing meanings and situations for emergency services in the "rescue" paramaters they work within.
    The glass breaker pommel is square to the blade center line so not only can it be used to smash glass to reach a trapped vehical occupant (civilian or criminal) but it is also a spot that can be used as a point to hammer against to open something or under something to lever against if it is an expedient way to gain access.
    The blade is strong enough with a blade edge geometary that will allow for reasonable severe use so I think we may be talking about different projected end uses.
    As an asside. I spent time doing design work for an African Hunting group for a bushcraft knife that would be multi purpose with the ability to lever being only one of the stipulated purposes. They bought about 10K$ worth of knives to test and gradually found fault with them all in one way or another (from handle to blade to guard area and to the sheath) so was quite pleased that mine passed all their tests and became the standard they looked for for the Africa hunter with hunting use, crafting use from cutting material for leopard blinds etc to smashing into locked boxes (he apolagised for having to do that but they lost a key) to cutting biltong for lunch time snack and still able to cut a cigar in the evening. They requested a scandi grind so any onel can sharpen it, even those who can not maintain an angle on a standard secondary bevelled blade.
    Beaker, Micky Duck and berg243 like this.

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    I am not familiar with the nipple point you mention. Do you have an example pic?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mauser308 View Post
    Ahhh, not exactly. More of an idea I've been kicking around trying to find a better mousetrap... Basically so I can slip the top of the point under something - as an example a tight tiedown strap over a plastic box where you want to be able to cut the strop without having to lift the strap or dig into the plastic. Bit hard to explain I think?

    I might see if I can dummy something up to give you the idea for a 'protected point' when you don't want a penetrating point on the blade. Let me think about that a little more...
    So quick and dirty sketch you are meaning something like this with blunted point and scandi grind to make it work. ahhh, cant make a pic upload work

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    Thanks for sharing, the video is great!
    what kind of breathing tube you got there? The face shield I am using in combination with a mask is always fogging up my glasses..
    Or you can stay within 300 yards and keep life a lot simpler.

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    Quote Originally Posted by diana2 View Post
    Thanks for sharing, the video is great!
    what kind of breathing tube you got there? The face shield I am using in combination with a mask is always fogging up my glasses..
    A Resp o rator . best thing for those with a beard. Absolutely no fogging of glasses. Been using that one for a number of years now. Easy to use, easy to drop out and put back and not in the way if not in use but easy to take of if not needed for a while. http://duxterity.com/resp-o-rator/
    Bol Tackshin and diana2 like this.

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    That is a lovely blade, with a very thoughtful sheath. It's an awesome combo, and one I would not object to being in my collection, but as a rescue knife, the blade is too pointy for my personal preference. Please take this as constructive feedback - I don't mean to detract from you at all. You have some serious skills.

    My EDC includes a Benchmade rescue hook. The reason is my son, now 20, nearly left this mortal coil by putting a cable tie / zip tie around his neck, and pulling on it, when he was just over 2 years old. I had spent some time as an ambulance volunteer in South Africa, so I'm not exactly green to rescues that are somewhat hairy. However, nothing handy, other than a pair of blunt sidecutters in a drawer could get under the skin of his neck, and then only with a dose of olive oil that was handy in the kitchen. It left a ring of little blood blisters, but he was okay. And didn't need CPR. Two minutes more, and he would have been history.

    Now, my "test" is if you can cut a cable tie that has been pulled tight enough to indent about 1cm into a pool noodle without damaging the pool noodle, you're onto a winner for a rescue blade or tool. Having said that, a Leatherman also rides in my bag, for when I fortunate enough to have a piece of biltong.
    Last edited by Bol Tackshin; 23-08-2021 at 11:32 PM.

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    @Mauser308 - the design you posted has promise. It bridges the gap between person rescue and more general use, and definitely has more practical utility than my Benchmade, which is so limited in what it can cut that you can take it though airport security in carry on! It is an extremely good option for clothing, seat belts, fishing line, paracord and even boots. The ability to pull without fear of collateral damage is reassuring, and it doesn't require much in the way of training or practice to be proficient. The blunt tip design doesn't need a ring, because the force of a push is directed forward, and the guard is sufficient to keep the hand in position. Think about keeping the angle of travel correct by the design of the top of the handle and the angle of the tip, so you don't end up with forward force dripping the blade down when pushing it. Am I making sense?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mauser308 View Post
    Does this make sense? Doesn't need to be that pronounced, just to protect the point and roll over anything soft that you don't want to dig into...

    Attachment 176026
    so many options for so many different aplications but I cant see how that could be incorporated in something similar to whata I have made that might have to be driven into or under something.
    A smaller and much lighter rescue tool is another story alltogether and these design projects are one of the aspects of this passion I really enjoy so lets get some paramaters down so a potential solution can be found. I expect a much smaller and lighter blade with something like a 3 1/2 to 4 inch blade max would be more suitable so first design input is the nipple nose
    What else do you see as a desirable element to incorporate in this ESLR knife (Emergency Services Light Rescue)
    Bol Tackshin likes this.

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    Why have either or? The O2 tool cutout can be separate to the lanyard hole. For a glass breaker, a tungsten bead on the pommel works better than a steel protrusion or point.
    Edit: I haven't needed an oxygen wrench for many years... In a pinch, a Leatherman can do that job.
    Mauser308 likes this.

  14. #14
    MSL
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    The ‘viper’ cylinders that BOC offer are useless for purge welding.


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  15. #15
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    They are a combined regulator/flow meter.
    If you want to purge, you need to fit an additional pair of flowmeters to split it. If you want 10L/min at the torch, and 8L/min for the purge, you have to set the cylinder flow meter to 18L/min. So when you stop welding to reposition, the purge is getting the full 18L/min. Causes a lot a pressure variation and turbulence.


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