Engineering design book suggestions

Hi guys,

I'm not even sure how to correctly word this or if it even exists. I make allot of stuff from steel and Ali in the shed but have no formal training, I'm wondering if there is a book someone could suggest that has the basics of how to design something to be strong but not over engineered. I feel like there should be some kind of basic rules for example how thick to make stuff or how far from the edge of certain materials to drill holes etc, I ushally just build it over the top but it would be nice to have some sort of guidance.

Basic I guess is the key word here lol, not much point if it's a full on engineering book I'm not looking to build any thing structural, life threatning or that would need hrs of calcs.

I’ve got an engineering Handbook you can have.? It will send you to sleep reading it, good for smashing spiders, but you just might learn a lot?
Pm me your address!

Could check out university / polytech book lists.... and the bookshops

I have the big black book. (https://www.trademe.co.nz/books/nonf...2272435427.htm) Very rarely consult it. I believe in there there is rather comprehensive finite element analysis tables and the such.
And the little black book, (https://www.trademe.co.nz/books/teac...2274185722.htm) which is referred to almost daily.

There are many "rules of thumb" that you pick up along the way but I haven't seen them in one place. Not sure how far up north you are or what you're planning to build (is it guns?) but the back corner of the piggery bookshop in Whangarei has some good engineering books come through from time to time.
I dare say you could probably google whatever you want to make and find a forum dedicated to it.

The old saying "If it breaks- build it stronger, if it doesn't - use it harder"

As far as guidance, look to things that are already made commercially, they're usually over-engineered enough to be idiot-proof, but light enough to use minimum materials.

As a very general rule if trying to build light but stiff/strong make triangles(think lattice work cranes)
And if building from thin materials use doubler plates of a thicker material at attachment points to spread the load over more area.

No book just years of experience.

I picked up a book of plans etc for building a single action rifle years ago as I believe it was getting hard to get, that's a one day plan maybe in 30 yrs when I retire. I have no where near enough skills yet to build any thing like that.

I like books as I find googling does provide answers but it can take allot of time and I end up becoming under productive and distracted, books I can have out in the shed for a quick check.

I will have a look in the pigery hav'nt been in there in years.

Thanks

Look rusi, you see the girl in a Bikini, you know is under engineered, won`t stand the strain when it hits the water''''' you hope. :P NOW I've never seen engineering book, but if you want to make a garden chipper or a Sharps rifle go for it, just keep saying " there's no such thing as "Can't do it"

Try NZS3404 Structural Steel Standard.

I would suggest begin your study with the "PROPERTIES OF MATERIALS".
Online searches under that heading will provide you with tons of information.
Understanding the materials will give you a good grounding, as you need that before you can choose the right material for the item you wish to design.
Being able to properly design something is another subject really.
This topic is hugely interesting and can give you a lifelong hobby and source of learning.
If you are using steel and ally in your shed you are already learning. Perhaps you are already learning about the different grades of ally, which are numerous, with different types and tempers having different uses. I use a lot of 7075 Ally. Awesome stuff. Ya cant weld it or bend it but ya can anodise it. It machines well and is super strong and hard. And light, which is the "density' value. The hardness part means it holds a thread well. The TOP level rifle scope rings and bases are 7075 ally. The Stolle Panda rifle receiver is 7075 ally, with some steel inserts at critical places. Ally is in the "Non Ferrous Metals" category. BTW the boatbuilding ally is 5083 grade. It's strong, bends well and welds well, but is a mongrel to machine as it's "gummy" and sticks to the cutting tools. So it has very different properties to say 7075 ally.
If you were say designing a rifle stock you need to understand the "E" value of materials which is "the modulus of elasticity" value, or put simply the stiffness value, or the materials resistance to bending.
The "composites" are another more modern but huge family of materials.
Huge subject even if you just stick with steel and ally !!!!! My qual is NZCE Mechanical, but ya learn LOTS just by playing and building with the different materials. And being keen.
I say start with the "Properties of Materials".

Some cool advice given. Read and tinker and learn really. I’ve got some decent quals but the best experience is from off the old school toolmaker boys and pissing around myself.
Made this and another model this morning.
Attachment 117922


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Originally Posted by Danny

Some cool advice given. Read and tinker and learn really. I’ve got some decent quals but the best experience is from off the old school toolmaker boys and pissing around myself.
Made this and another model this morning.
Attachment 117922


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Its full of holes?

Read these two by J. E Gordon, they will serve you well. Both a good thought provoking read, best engineering design books I ever bought.

The New Science of Strong Materials: Or Why You Don't Fall through the Floor

Structures: Or Why Things Don't Fall Down

Reviews on that armazoon place.

A good free one is the Blacks fastener handbook, you should be able to find a PDF on line

Another handy one is Shigley Mecahnical Design, might be a little bit past what you are after though, has little bits of lots of stuff

A few points to consider: Any load-bearing recessed corners should always have a radius rather than a sharp corner to reduce the possibility of stress cracks. Good steels and alloys don't cost much more than ordinary ones. Depending on the final use, most modern engineering alloy steels are fine for use in the 'as delivered' state. Use finer threads in hard materials, coarser threads in softer materials. The higher the grade of stainless the harder it is to machine but gives improved corrosion resistance. Conventional engineering alloy steels are generally better to work with. Make use of the data sheets available online from material manufacturers. Design things around standard-sized materials that are available 'off the shelf' and commonly available fasteners. Simple and solid is good!

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Originally Posted by Maca49

Its full of holes?

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yes in order to satisfy the new arms regime this device is deemed religious -It is holey!!:P

a terrible pun but i couldnt resist.

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Originally Posted by gundoc

A few points to consider: Any load-bearing recessed corners should always have a radius rather than a sharp corner to reduce the possibility of stress cracks. Good steels and alloys don't cost much more than ordinary ones. Depending on the final use, most modern engineering alloy steels are fine for use in the 'as delivered' state. Use finer threads in hard materials, coarser threads in softer materials. The higher the grade of stainless the harder it is to machine but gives improved corrosion resistance. Conventional engineering alloy steels are generally better to work with. Make use of the data sheets available online from material manufacturers. Design things around standard-sized materials that are available 'off the shelf' and commonly available fasteners. Simple and solid is good!

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X2 what he said. You've got to remember that it all comes down to use and what you are building. Some things can be thinner and have more holes closer to the edge than others for example.
As for stainless, our workshop when I was an apprentice did a lot of work for the local dairy factory, brewery and fishing boats.
It was predominantly 316 grade stainless. machining it with carbides was fine but you did have to get everything right if you were drilling and tapping it especially if it was smaller taps. If it work hardened on you it was a bitch and this was the same for other high tensile's.
broken off exhaust studs aren't fun at all