Thread: Gess what I`m doing.

Hi all, yep have set up one of the 4140 steel shafts in my lathe ready to drill a .444" hole in for 28". Now running two oil pumps for more volume and pressure and mixed in 5ltrs of Coolcut cutting oil to my hydraulic oil, should help keep the drill sharp and cool. And speaking of sharp I worked out a way to sharpen my gun drills on my lathe with a small diamond grind wheel, used to cost me $50 each to get them sharpened, can't beat do it your self. IF it comes out any good still thinking what rifling twist should I do, 1-18" or 1-20" with a 27" barrel. . Pic`s of the setup.
,
, All ready to go.

one of each.....lol

brew ya old bugger nice to see ya back in print again -thought ya mighta buggered off into the wideblue yonder. still the craftsman i sees!

Gess what I`m doing.

Making a fancy tool to fix the "U" key on your keyboard!?

Seriously, waiting in anticipation!

It`s my bloody brew that does that, thakes controle of ma fingres . The grenlins are creeping in, set my drilling rig going, oil pressure at 400psi and it`s pissing out off the barrel stock end, I hadn't pushed the stock hard onto the drill guide seal ring. Buugggger!!. So the car looks nice and shiny, the garage walls and ceiling are nice and clean," O darling, I see you have cleaned the car AND the garage, and you have had a bath to!!!, wonders will never séance. Mums the word. So I`m starting all over again, some days it pays to stay in bed.

After a few brews all is back on line and going good, resharpened the drill, all set up again and back into it. After a day on it I have about 14" to go in to give me a 28" deep hole. I can't lay in bed all day ,have to get the job done and yes the stock is hard up on the o ring seal, no, not a drip at 400 psi,
, Anyone want a nice bowl of chips.

I know you are all having bets as to will he flood the garage with oil, will the gun drill break in the bore and stuff things up. O all ye of no faith, my moto is ("There`s no such thing as Can't do it")!!. So to all you non believers I`m putting my mouth where my money is, Here`s a bloody long hole in a shaft of hard steel, 29" and entry to exit hole is only off centre by .004" , am I good or what!! . Just need to ream it ,then cut the rifling, no problem, I think.
, Now is that not a lovey hole!!

Very well done! IF your intrested, special steels and metals can supply pilot drilled barrel bar or should I say used to, comes from sweden.

Originally Posted by homebrew.357

Hi all, yep have set up one of the 4140 steel shafts in my lathe ready to drill a .444" hole in for 28". Now running two oil pumps for more volume and pressure and mixed in 5ltrs of Coolcut cutting oil to my hydraulic oil, should help keep the drill sharp and cool. And speaking of sharp I worked out a way to sharpen my gun drills on my lathe with a small diamond grind wheel, used to cost me $50 each to get them sharpened, can't beat do it your self. IF it comes out any good still thinking what rifling twist should I do, 1-18" or 1-20" with a 27" barrel. . Pic`s of the setup.

One that progresses from 1-20" to 1-12" that would be awesome.

What, a gain twist, I thought that was only with a old Navy .44 pistols. I`d need a sine bar like a crank handle. Now the bore is not bad but just needed reaming to clean up the drill scratch marks and smooth it out and enlarge it for the rifling cutter head to fit. I make up my own homebrewed reamer, it`s a 8"inch long flat bit of steel with a length of hack saw blade solded on one side and ground straight on the sides. Bottom has three pins to hold a packing bit of hard wood, this rubs on the bottom of the hole while the H/ blade is pressed against the top of the hole. It`s the square edge that scrapes the bore as it is wound through and with lots of cutting oil the metal coming off is like grey mud. To make it cut a bit more a thin strip of paper is placed between the packer and pins.
, Coming out with grey mud, sharp edges of blade scrapes the bore smooth.
, Reamer, paper packer, wood base.

cleaver wee hua arent you just...... real #8 WIRE STUFF keep it coming bud.

Well they say you can't beat results, I did the same thing when making my Sharps barrel and the drill bores a hole to .442"/ .444" , for the rifling head to slide nicely it needs to be .444" so not much is removed. So yes I`m the clever chap as my Sharps is telling me.
, Practise for a goat shoot.

For a real clever #8 wire bit here is the rifling cutter head starting to do it`s job, fine chips starting to come out from the muzzle end. The barrel is tapered , .445" where the drill starts at the breech end and .444" at the muzzle end . If you look hard you can just see the T/C cutter in the slot of the rifling head, it is lowered to go back through to the breech end and is up when pulled through again. The twist is 1-20", six groves out to .457"
.,

Originally Posted by homebrew.357

What, a gain twist, I thought that was only with a old Navy .44 pistols. I`d need a sine bar like a crank handle.

It would be quite a feat.

I think it's used on some artillery also. Apparently reduces breech pressure.

I see a set up like that and all I can think is that I could make some awesome knives with that...