Going to fix my CZ stock - help!

Hi Guys

Further to my thread in Sell/Buy section, I'm going to have a go at repairing this damaged stock. The sad story can be read here
https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....z-452-a-58495/

I have never really done anything like this before but I'm keen to do the best job I can. I've been told aliphatic glue is the go - would Titebond II be a good one for a job like this? If anyone can suggest a basic equipment list that would be awesome also. I am thinking glue, sandpaper (medium to very fine), some sort of clamp (what would be best?). And after I've done the repair I will probably need to refinish the whole stock... ? What would be best for that? Here is a pic of the damage.

Attachment 132091

Many thanks in advance for any thoughts or advice.

If it was me, I would take all the metal work out including trigger guard and roughly shape a piece of timber 3x2 for example to fit under the full length of the stock tight to the pistol grip. Clamp the stock to it in the barrel channel (no marks) and clamp the 3x2 in a vice. You then have a solid frame to work off and to clamp down to. I would also shape another piece of timber to fit over the top of the broken out piece to support the top of the clamp providing hold down while the glue sets. Might need to screw supports to the 3x2 as well to keep it straight.

thanks that's a fantastic start.

Do you have the bit that broke off? If you do use araldite and glue it back on. An easy job.

Good advise from Moa Hunter.

I quite like the quick clamps that fuller make. Rubber tips on them and I've found they to give enough pressure for wood gluing.
Using bog standard gorrila PVA wood glue I've glued a few bits of wood with a simple butt join and then break tested. Every time the timber has failed before the glue join. Mostly using that glue because it was in the local shop.

From the look of the break, if you take care when applying pressure with the clamps it should line up pretty well perfectly and the join will be hard to spot. Wipe up any excess glue that will ooze out with a damp rag, easier than scraping off when it's set.

Hopefully someone who knows what they are doing will be along soon. @gundoc

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Joe_90

Using bog standard gorrila PVA wood glue I've glued a few bits of wood with a simple butt join and then break tested. Every time the timber has failed before the glue join. Mostly using that glue because it was in the local shop.

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Yeah the Gorilla glue is good, it will be the aliphatic PVA, not your run of the mill shit PVA you used as a kid. Stay away from epoxy glues like araldite, use whats made for wood.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Moa Hunter

If it was me, I would take all the metal work out including trigger guard and roughly shape a piece of timber 3x2 for example to fit under the full length of the stock tight to the pistol grip. Clamp the stock to it in the barrel channel (no marks) and clamp the 3x2 in a vice. You then have a solid frame to work off and to clamp down to. I would also shape another piece of timber to fit over the top of the broken out piece to support the top of the clamp providing hold down while the glue sets. Might need to screw supports to the 3x2 as well to keep it straight.

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yep im with moa hunter(any truth to the rumour youve glued a few moas together squire.:ORLY:) furthermore once youve got it all lined up and glued id leave it for 48hrs at least.
best of luck anyhow

Aliphatic PVA is great but keep an eye on it as after you have completed the joint after a period of time the glue will start to foam out of the joint.
Wipe it up when when still wet to save sanding/ re-staining etc

I epoxied my sons 308 back together, was broken through the wrist and 3 pieces. All fitted back together tidy, but trimmed off a couple of whiskers on the inside go the smallest piece so it all came together easily. Then I used 24hour Araldite, cos thats as strong as nearly any of the epoxies, stronger than wood, and acts as a filler in tiny cavities. I Then applied epoxy to both sides of all pieces let it go tacky for 10 or so minutes and carefully put it back together. I used a rubber strip cut from a car tube to provide some tension lengthwise, ie, pulling the forend back towards the butt. And then I used another long length of car tube and neatly bound the outside of the pistol grip, over the whole area being glued. As I wrapped it firmly, I wiped any excess epoxy off. The good thing about wrapping it with rubber under a bit of tension is that it usually holds the whole shebang together in the right position, and its doesn't allow for much excess epoxy to settle on the stock exterior. I left it for a week and carefully took the rubber bands off. No excess epoxy to clean up, all wood fitted to the same level, and an almost invisible joint. That rifle has now been hunted for the past 3 years and unless you were shown, you wouldn't know that it has been repaired.

When I have done repairs ( broken shotgun wrists ) I have used standard Gorilla Grip and found it worked very well. I think that if a foaming type glue is used it does fill and bond those areas where some crumbs of wood might be missing that we cant see. But especially if a foaming glue is used it will try to push the joint apart and it will do it too, unless the work is clamped. When clamped everything will stay lined up and the excess foam will push out at the cracks of the join where it can be removed when it starts to 'go off'. A clever person would probably run round the outside of the join with a cotton bud and some vasaline after it was all clamped up so that the excess glue didn't stick to the stock finish.

Excess glue coming from join after clamping.

(Not a stock, this will end up as part of a coffee table leg)

Attachment 132136

This is so helpful and I am really grateful for this. I’m learning a lot and feel almost ready to get started! I have both pieces and will carefully plan the clamping phase by looking at how they are likely to sit

When i broke the wrist on my 30-30 i took it to a cabinet maker. He said me might try and put a dowel in it but ended up just gluing it. That was in 1999 and it's still holding together fine.

Those type of breaks are fairly common. I like to use Araldite and I drill a few 3mm holes about 4-5mm deep to give a good key in the mating surfaces. It is often a good idea to leave the barreled action in place so there is positive location but you must prepare the action and rear screw with a good release agent. Wide industrial rubber bands are good for holding things like that in place while the adhesive sets. Just enough glue to coat the surfaces makes clean up a lot easier. If you have glue seepage then clean it off with a sharp knife just before it goes hard.

Hi Guys

So I glued the missing bits back on. It's looking a bit rough although I think I can tidy it up a little bit more by shaving excess glue. But basically it is as below. I used Gorilla Glue and I used some strips of inner tube instead of a clamp. I think it's a strong bond at least, and probably won't be going anywhere.

Question: if I sanded the whole stock down and got the join as smooth as I could and then oiled the stock, would that improve it? What oil would I use? Or is there something better than oil?

Thanks for all the help with this, I wouldn't have even got this far without it.

Attachment 132508

JB weld epoxy, i swear it makes the normal stuff look like wallpaper paste.

Ah ok but I already done it eh.

tough to sand around the checkering but a method is to wet sand the area with say, tru-oil and the wet sawdust will fill up the crack. let it dry and refinish stock.
I believe a trick is also to use super glue. that may be better in the chequering part at least

wait till you try a mix of superglue and baking soda. makes it even tougher !!!

Ah, ok, thanks. You mean like wet-sand with superglue? (and baking soda @gonetropo). And would I refinish it with... more tru-oil or something else?

nope. if you mix superglue and baking soda together it becomes amazing to glue porous surfaces like wood. give it a go one day on a piece of scrap and you will see what i mean

Wet sand with tru-oil, it does go off like a varnish so makes a hard gap filler. The superglue trick is if you cant do that. refinish with tru-oil if you have that but otherwise use whatever you want to try. The next one I want to try is Danish oil but I think you still seal it with a couple of coats of a tru-oil type finish

To bad I caught this thread a bit late.
I use epoxy resin and the following die to match the colour of the wood.
https://workshopinnovation.co.nz/pro...od=083-001-005

The repairs are almost invisible.

If that piece of wood broke in the first place, it might be due to an uneven pressure of the action in that part of the stock and maybe your rifle would benefit from a bedding job ?

Not to worry - better late than never. I'll store that tip away for next time, cheers. I'm not sure if you are familiar with the whole sad saga but I do think the tang of the action might contact the stock just where it split away. I might relieve the wood slightly around there, to give it a mil clearance, which it seems to have around the rest of the tang. It doesn't sit particularly neutrally in the stock - there are a couple of different ways it can settle when tightening the action screws. But on the other hand it shoots pretty well so I'm not hugely keen to mess with it more than necessary. Plus I've never bedded a stock before. sounds like Tru Oil and wet sanding might be the go, and just take if from there.

just be aware that you are only doing enough to fill the gap. And its only steel wool-my preferred, maybe green scourer pads (still to try this one properly) and quite fine sandpaper.
some quite handy info here:

Stock Care and Replacement Stocks - Page 2 - Surplus Rifle Forum - www.surplusrifleforum.com