Thread: Help needed ... how to make your own stock ...

Sorry I hadn't looked in this section for a while.

There are no hard and fast rules, just be prepared to learn from you (or others) mistakes. I do it this way:

1) make a cardboard template based on another stock. Then I add/subtract LOP, drop at heel and toe etc...until it works for me. I even put a paper towel inner carboard roll on top to act as a ''scope'' to make sure it points the way I want it too.

2) Move your template around on the blank to find the best fit, looking for nice straight/strong grain through the pistol grip area.

2) I then cut a datum edge along the top line of the traced template. All measurements will be done off this line.

3) Next I cut one of the flat sides perfectly square to the top, this will help align the inletting. You can cut both sides if you wish...up to you?

4) Draw the inletting onto the top of the datum, taking all measurements from one point (back of action tang hole)

5) Inlet the top of the barrel/action/mag channels by setting up the blank in a vice, and use a router (or mill) to cut in your inletting. Lots of small cuts about 1/4'' at a time. I used the two flat sides as my datums to get everything straight. I use the guides on the router as much as I can, but will often just freehand the router as walnut is a pleasure to cut and you can get away with murder on it. You can even cut against the grain which other timbers would never allow you to do!

6) Once the inletting is done on the top, I now use a band saw (or what ever you have) to cut out the shape. ****NOTE: LEAVE ABOUT 100MM MORE THAN YOU NEED ON EACH END FRONT AND REAR, THIS IS SO YOU CAN HOLD IT IN A VICE TO WORK ON LATTER WHEN DOING FINAL SHAPING*****

7) Now inlet the bottom metal. This is tricky and most of the time I freehand it with the router...but take care as this is where the mistakes are often made. Sometimes I even poke the router bit right out and use my fingers under the plate to guage the depth...but this is risky for new players!

8) Now using a circular saw, cut as much unwanted wood off as possible...

9) Shape the butt. I work from butt to foreend. This is where the extra 100mm each end comes into play, as you can crank it up in the vice. For this shaping a ''cheese greater'' rasp (sureform????) is the tool of chapions! You'll be amaised how fast the wood just peels off!!!

10) Do final shaping with P80 sandpaper, then work through the grades switching to wet & dry about 240 grit onwards. I run a house over it when using the wet and dry.

That's about it really, the rest you'll figure out along the way.












Best of luck

kim