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Alpine DPT


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  1. #1
    Squashed like a Flea
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Canberra, Land of the Long Weekend
    Posts
    183
    G'Day Fella's,

    As can be seen (unfortunately, not by myself?), I have selectively removed just a thin amount of the epoxy resin this is like a Gel Coat on the stock.
    The reason I have done this is to make sure I have removed any trace of remaining Release Agent, from when the stock was manufactured!
    This has been done in any area, that I want the bedding compound to adhere to, this include along the top of the barrel channel, on both sides and at the forend tip.

    Doh!
    Homer

  2. #2
    Squashed like a Flea
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Canberra, Land of the Long Weekend
    Posts
    183
    G'Day again,

    Here is a close up of the recoil lug, receiver ring and barrel reinforce area, to show you where I have removed just a thin layer of Epoxy Resin/Gel Coat material and at the same time created a slight clearance, between the barreled action and inside surfaces, of the stock.
    Name:  How to Bed a Rifle 010.jpg
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    Hear is another image but of the whole action area, ditto as above!
    Name:  How to Bed a Rifle 011.jpg
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    You can also see the two Pillars that I have machined up, ready for use in this bedding job.

    Doh!
    Homer
    Last edited by Homer; 30-05-2012 at 10:30 PM.

  3. #3
    Squashed like a Flea
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Canberra, Land of the Long Weekend
    Posts
    183
    G'Day Fella's,

    OK, the next thing to do is to mask off all the areas of the metal work (barreled action, trigger guard and floor plate), that you want to have clearance in this bedding job.
    I like most of my conventional bedding jobs to have two Pads in direct contact with the stock.
    These two Pads are usually around the front and rear take down screws.
    So in my case, I use 0.006" thick plastic tape and apply it to the metal areas that I don't want to contact the stock/bedding.
    In some areas, I apply two or three thicknesses of this tape, to provide additional clearance between the metal and stock surfaces.
    Name:  How to Bed a Rifle 012.jpg
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    Name:  How to Bed a Rifle 013.jpg
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    Name:  How to Bed a Rifle 015.jpg
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    In these images, you should be able to see the two unmasked Pads (which includes the rear face of the action recoil lug), that will be in direct contact with the stock and the other areas, that I want to have clearance between the metal and stock. This includes the two action screws that have three thicknesses of tape around them to provide clearance between the outside of the screws and the inside of the pillars!

    Next, we start preparing for and then sticking things together!

    Doh!
    Homer
    Last edited by Homer; 31-05-2012 at 09:20 PM.

  4. #4
    Caretaker stug's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Rolleston, Canterbury
    Posts
    5,180
    Great pics, keep them coming.

  5. #5
    Squashed like a Flea
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Canberra, Land of the Long Weekend
    Posts
    183
    G'Day Fella's,

    Thanks for the kind words Stug!

    I forgot to mention something above.
    Please notice that the only vertical surface of the barreled action to come into contact with the bedding (when completed), is the rear face of the recoil lug!
    Every other vertical surface (including the Front, Rear and Sides of the action and the sides of the barrel), has a layer (or Two, or Three) of plastic tape on it, to provide a small amount of clearance!

    Doh!
    Homer

 

 

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