Thread: How-To Bed a Rifle, in a new Fiberglass Stock

G'Day Fella's,

OK, the next thing to do is to mask off all the areas of the metal work (barreled action, trigger guard and floor plate), that you want to have clearance in this bedding job.
I like most of my conventional bedding jobs to have two Pads in direct contact with the stock.
These two Pads are usually around the front and rear take down screws.
So in my case, I use 0.006" thick plastic tape and apply it to the metal areas that I don't want to contact the stock/bedding.
In some areas, I apply two or three thicknesses of this tape, to provide additional clearance between the metal and stock surfaces.




In these images, you should be able to see the two unmasked Pads (which includes the rear face of the action recoil lug), that will be in direct contact with the stock and the other areas, that I want to have clearance between the metal and stock. This includes the two action screws that have three thicknesses of tape around them to provide clearance between the outside of the screws and the inside of the pillars!

Next, we start preparing for and then sticking things together!

Doh!
Homer

Great pics, keep them coming.

G'Day Fella's,

Thanks for the kind words Stug!

I forgot to mention something above.
Please notice that the only vertical surface of the barreled action to come into contact with the bedding (when completed), is the rear face of the recoil lug!
Every other vertical surface (including the Front, Rear and Sides of the action and the sides of the barrel), has a layer (or Two, or Three) of plastic tape on it, to provide a small amount of clearance!

Doh!
Homer