Thread: K.I.S.S. Action Wrench

Some pics of the action wrench for my switch barrel project.



Just a steel rod, turned down to fit inside the action. Flat milled into it to accept a key that fits snugly into the magazine cutout in the bottom of the action. The key and rod are both drilled and tapped.



Once the main part is inside the action, the 'key' is secured with high tensile bolts. Big nut welded onto the back. Allows you to remove the barrel without removing the scope bases.

That looks pretty complicated for a simple one?
the one and only i made as a copy of the bolt basicly out of 4140 and snapped it like a carrot
Howas are tight! went in with a parting tool right next to the action to relieve tension then undid by hand.

Sent from my GT-S5360T using Tapatalk 2

Thought it was pretty basic....

Wanted the nut fairly far back so the socket wrench would not hit the scope.

Still thinking about different options for clamping the barrel. Trying to come up with a clever way to be able to do it without taking the scope off....

two bits of alloy and a hydraulic press.

Sent from my GT-S5360T using Tapatalk 2

Big 3 jaw chuck and alloy clams

At the moment it has a one piece base and remington type rings, so have to take scope out of rings...

Will look at getting a blank picatinny or weaver rail so I can at least take rings and scope off in one go.

Don't think gripping the barrel in front of the scope is such a hot idea...

Why do you have to remove the scope?

Sent from my GT-S5360T using Tapatalk 2

There is very little space between the scope and barrel. I want to be able to clamp on the thicker part of the barrel near the action, rather than the thin part in front of the scope. The current option is a steel block with a large hole a slot cut in to increase grip. Will make hardwood sleeves for the different barrel diameters.

Scope will probably need to be zeroed again for each barrel in any case.

that sounds like a pain to have to re- zero each barrel or are you looking also to have a scope for each barrel? and whats your ideal weight of the finished project?.Is your budget $500 for this?.

Re zero scope is the pain I will have to live with. One scope, 2 barrels at this stage.

Yup, $500 budget, on hold cause I just had to fork out for components for next target season 1500 rounds ouch...

Weight ? Dunno, the 788 is not light to start with, and the TF barrel for 22-250 is chunky

clamp it forward of the stock forend.
If you need enough pressure to damage the barrel up there to clamp it there is no way your wrench or action will handle the torque anyway.

Kinda defeats the purpose if you have to remove stock and scope just to swap barrels?

Sent from my GT-S5360T using Tapatalk 2

What is your second barrel cal going to be,308 is the same size case right? or have you already decided that.

Weld a muzzle brake on each barrel and put a punch thru the brake and lock it in a vice to unscrew! Cams right if you need enough pressure to hold the barrel that it damages it, your undoer won't undo!

Jase, I have the original 788 barrel in 308 in the action at the moment. Also have the ex. Omark 308 barrel, could maybe look at doing that as a 30/284 at later stage (but would need re-threading and chambering), want to stick to .473 bolt face

So for the barrels I have on hand it would be :

308 bush shorty
22-250 heavy contour varmint
30/284 medium ranger

how long is action? to short for 06 cases?

Sent from my GT-S5360T using Tapatalk 2