Yep your looking at the breech with a 45/70 in the groove, they are a nice rifle to shoot, mines extremely accurate, but it's a range rifle, cause I don't go shooting on a horse and it's to heavy to cart anywhere except from the car to the mound,
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There's a stock for one on trade me "Lloyd82" he wants $135.00
Attachment 26642 Here is a pic of where the breech block, (not mine) fits in the receiver, and seeing that I`m making it I don`t think a standard stock would fit, would like to make one of black walnut. This rifle will be basically black powder loads or smokles and a range rifle or a Sharps business rifle, I can only make a barrel 24/25" long on my lathe, and can give it a twist of 1-24" or 1-20", not shore which is best, long range shooting uses a 1-18" twist with a .500gr bullet, I will be using .300/.450gr to save my shoulder. Trying to sort out my pic`s, cheers, Homebrew.357. Attachment 26654
Attachment 26656 Some more pic`s to see if I can upload them, The lumpy bit at lower right is then of the breech under lever front bit, making it in tow bits, think I`v got it. homebrew.357.
Ok, That lumpy bit part of the under lever/trigger garde , had to make it in two pieces and when both were ready I weald them together, then a lot of grinding, bending, sanding, polishing for a nice finish.
The Sharps 45-70 has a bore size of .458cal, the gun drill I had for my Hawken drilled a bore of .419/20, to much reaming to get the right size. So went on to Ebay in the US and bought one, 48" long x .444" dia. Now they drill a hole a bit bigger than there size, should come out to .445", leaving .013", so no reaming, just a polish with 600grt paper and cut the rifling .065 per side for a bore of .458", way to go!
Pic`s of the leaver, new gun drill and barrel to be, Homebrew.357. :thumbsup: Attachment 26676Attachment 26677Attachment 26678Attachment 26679Attachment 26680
The work you are doing on this is frigging amazing.
Here`s the new gun drill and barrel to be. the large round bit of aisi 1045 steel is going to be the receiver with a hell of a lot of machining!, O for a milling machine or c n c, good things take time.
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Keep it going! I shoot 500 grain with 63 grains of FFG and my shoulder is just fine, that off hand, prone hurts real bad if you get it wrong!:thumbsup:
Hi, Hey Maca is your one a Shilo sharps, with a 1-18" twist, it will shoot out to 800/1,000, like Billy Dixson. I`m thinking of 1-20" or 1-"24, should be good to 3/400 yards and a lighter bullet?.
Making the side plate it has to be good hard steel, and you have to by a meter of it and I only need a small bit. So asking my son if he had any comeinhandy bits of good hard steel , yep, you can have my buggered up chain saw blade. It was so hard had to cut it with my angle grinder to get a small bit, then heated it to red hot and let it cool, now I could work it, and just the right thickness and when finished can reharden and temper to a good colour. And the same for the main spring assy, my idea is to make a spring out of a spring, so a soft bit of car spring steel was used to make the main spring and when finished just reharden and temper. :thumbsup: some pic`s, Cheers, Homebrew.357.
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Your an inventive bugger, why a stihl and not a husky? Should it not be an American Chainsaw? Homelite or Poulan ! Hahahahahahahahaha
This guys youtube channel might be of interest to you as well - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmV7H3qOPNI
Brilliant Homebrew, you are a true machinist, good luck on your project.....
But wait there`s more!, I also used car spring for the set triggers, they need to be hard as well, with lots of milling, grinding and polishing , made the set spring as well and a bit of a test ,all is working good .
Scouser, No I`m not a machinist, that's not fair to the guys how have done there time in the trade, I just muddle along and hope it comes out right:wtfsmilie: . Yes I`m building it good and strong, that is until I give it a good stiff proof load !:o , some pic`s before I blow it up, Homebrew.357.
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