Thread: Maybe a annealing machine bones?

If air-wound coils don't do what is required then a gapped ferrite core will help and allow for a lower input power. Brass' good conductivity is a problem for inductive heating. The trick for this and uniformity is to have a coil that concentrates the flux on the shoulders. The neck is easier to heat as it has shorter current paths, a lower mass of material than the shoulders and walls, and heat can only conduct out of the neck in one direction. Necks will keep up temperature-wise with the shoulders with much less input. Then the field also needs to drop away rapidly in the other direction to minimize heating in the case walls so the heating down towards the head only gets there via conduction.

Originally Posted by Puffin

If air-wound coils don't do what is required then a gapped ferrite core will help and allow for a lower input power. Brass' good conductivity is a problem for inductive heating. The trick for this and uniformity is to have a coil that concentrates the flux on the shoulders. The neck is easier to heat as it has shorter current paths, a lower mass of material than the shoulders and walls, and heat can only conduct out of the neck in one direction. Necks will keep up temperature-wise with the shoulders with much less input. Then the field also needs to drop away rapidly in the other direction to minimize heating in the case walls so the heating down towards the head only gets there via conduction.

Thanks @Puffin The magnet gap is also quite a nice reference point for the case head to assure repeated alignment.

Finally have the majority of components so will start building shortly.

I have all of the components except for smaller items like on off switches, tubing for the water-cooling and a relay that is strong enough to break 30V DC. I made things slightly more difficult for myself as I purchased a 12V dc timer instead of the 240v AC one, I wanted to run 240V in and everything run off 24V-48V So only having to worry about 240V once. Benefit of AC is it drops do 0V every cycle so the arc automatically gets suppressed every single. Im hoping a 24V automotive relay will work.

I paid around 110 dollars for a 48v 20amp PSU from aliexpress. As the project mentions this type of PSU will not have quick enough up time to get the induction coil working so need it switch it first. I think all up ill be about $300 nzd including the power supply. A flame one would be cheaper but I like the idea of not having a flame inside the house and I wanted a project to do.

Shooting and other bits and peaces has taken priority. Ill start building mine in the next few months once things are back to normal.

Originally Posted by gadgetman

Will likely use your typical auto cooling system liquid. Want to try just convection but have pumps just in case.

From what I have read conduction is not enough to adequately cool it. Paid about 24 dollars for my pump and res combo.

Originally Posted by Nugget connaisseur

I have all of the components except for smaller items like on off switches, tubing for the water-cooling and a relay that is strong enough to break 30V DC. I made things slightly more difficult for myself as I purchased a 12V dc timer instead of the 240v AC one, I wanted to run 240V in and everything run off 24V-48V So only having to worry about 240V once. Benefit of AC is it drops do 0V every cycle so the arc automatically gets suppressed every single. Im hoping a 24V automotive relay will work.

I paid around 110 dollars for a 48v 20amp PSU from aliexpress. As the project mentions this type of PSU will not have quick enough up time to get the induction coil working so need it switch it first. I think all up ill be about $300 nzd including the power supply. A flame one would be cheaper but I like the idea of not having a flame inside the house and I wanted a project to do.

Shooting and other bits and peaces has taken priority. Ill start building mine in the next few months once things are back to normal.

I'm basing mine on an old PC with it's power supply and case. This will give me 12V and 5V supplies for the pump and control circuits and arduino. Will use an RC servo to operate the case release and a 60A solid state relay (got a box of them) to switch the output of the 48V supply. Possibly look at a case feeder too later on.

Originally Posted by Nugget connaisseur

From what I have read conduction is not enough to adequately cool it. Paid about 24 dollars for my pump and res combo.

Yes, with the 3mm copper tube there is only a 2mm hole so it needs some help.

Originally Posted by gadgetman

Yes, with the 3mm copper tube there is only a 2mm hole so it needs some help.

Interested . Keep the updates coming. Ive got this on my list of things to do but have new arrivals so it has to wait.

Originally Posted by gadgetman

Finally have the majority of components so will start building shortly.

@gadgetman - any progress on this? Cheers

Originally Posted by The Claw

@gadgetman - any progress on this? Cheers

Too much work on lately to have a crack at it. Hopefully over the next weekend or two.