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Hey team with all the spare time on my hands I have been left to ponder another project.
I want to refinish the stock on my latest acquisition.
Attachment 135062
I have stain left over from my latest shield.
Attachment 135063
So my question is, I understand that elbow grease and sand paper will remove the finish on most of the stock but what about the checkering ?
Or would I be wise to leave the checkering and just stain over it ?
Thanks again :thumbsup:
I stripped the origonal finish off my zastava with store bought stripper..a bit of scrub with wire brush got checkering sorted.... oiled it numerous times and havent looked back.
SS and that dark stain will be diferent to be sure.
Can I ask what particular stripper as I believe they are not all created equal ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
buggered if I know mate...was 22 years ago now...shite I cant remember half of last week....it stunk and was potent shite...remember that much.was like glue,clear and thick.
Also was it just a hand held wire brush or mounted on a drill type ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Micky Duck
Anyone else able to chime in and suggest what product to strip the original marlin finish ?
hand tools only...we stripped rifle bare,hung it out side and painted the crap on....comeon someone who had done it this century....
Dan - I tend to use sandpapers from med to superfine finishing grades (1200) to remove old varnish and prep surfaces. Don't touch the checkering with paper. Wire brush may be fine if its old. Then its 5-6 light coats of Danish oil which has driers in it. Creates a very nice smooth dry oil finish. Lately I've been cheating on the sanding and using fine plastic pellet bead blaster at mate's garage - this strips old finish off perfectly and needs only fine sanding prep before oiling.
If you haven't done this b4 lockdowns over, give me a whistle and I will do it for you. Have done heaps of them.
Mike
Use a piece of glass as a scraper
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It's still in Hamilton till after the lock down, I'll definitely take you up on that Mike cheers buddy.Quote:
Originally Posted by mudgripz
Sounds like a great option.
I'll pm you once I take delivery.
tergo-strip !!Quote:
Originally Posted by dannyb
nasty shit so be careful inc lots of ventilation
That tergo-strip was good!! Did great job on few stocks - But - where do you get it now? Haven't been able to find it for years...
I use common paint and varnish stripper and a nylon nail brush. Toothbrush in checkering. You may need to do this twice and then clean with water then let dry.
Then use 400 grit wetndry with plenty of turps. Work down to 600 then 800 grit.
Let dry then do 800 grit with turps again.
The use linseed or other drying wood oil mixed with dtain andcturps applied with 800 grit over many days allowingvto dry thoroughly between coats. Final application with high grade 0000 steel wool.
Then frequent hand rubbing over years.
r.j pattersons?Quote:
Originally Posted by mudgripz
or a marine shop as it was good on gel coat
I will check patterson's. Have done several marlins and their Mar-shield finish comes off ok. Only make I had trouble with was later Winchester 94s - was difficult to get the finish off their recent Wintuff stocks. Yes OO wire wool ideal finisher for buffing stock prior to oiling.
I taped my checkering with masking tape when doing the rest to avoid damage
I used a scraper blade in edge to remove the varnish
Then did as above with fine sand paper and finished with linseed oil with multiple coats over weeks
Just keep giving it more till it stops drinking it
@dannyb seems tergostrip is made in nz by chemetall industries and is available thru most panelbeaters supply places.
i used it on that horrid epoxy found on early jw15's and heated the wood up till i could just hold onto it, covered it in tergo and it dissolved off no problems. rubber gloves, safety glasses and ventilation are needed
Good to hear - I'll get some more.
A point about OO steel/wire wool - have heard of course the idea that fragments can be left in woodwork and rust etc. But .. have to note I've probably used the product on 15-20 rifle restores ( my hobby) and have never encountered a problem. There is the suggestion it could happen, but in my experience have never had a problem. A problem can be replicating exact tints/coloration on light coloured stocks. Here you sometimes have to experiment with tints etc, but as often as not I'm happy to go with a slight variation. The only stock that was difficult to match was from JW15s with their thick poo brown varnish over almost balsa white stocks. Sometimes I've left them 'blonde' - 6 coats of Danish oil - and on occasion have sprayed them in satin black - not an issue on a cheapie. Where there is deep stock dent damage requiring filler, then the satin black solution is a useful cover-all for a cheapie. 6 coats does it well.
The last few stocks I've removed varnish off I used sellys paint stripper. Put small sections on at a time with a 1cm art brush, wait a few minutes for it to bubble up then scrape off with a putty scraper. It's almost like a gel, water based stuff so in the chequering I've used a wet stiff brissled toothbrush to clean it out. Cleans it up nicely.
Small sections are needed as if it dries out it's a bastard to get off again.
The last Toz I did took several tries with the stripper, don't know what varnish they used but it sure as hell outlasted the USSR.
+1 on Tergo Strip! Do not use any sandpaper at all as it will round off the edges and the fact that the stock has been refinished by an amateur will stick out like dog's balls! A carefully used scraper will remove the bulk of the factory finish, followed by more stripper and steel wool. Wash the stock thoroughly and allow it to dry. Put masking tape over the checkering then whisker off the stock with 600 grit wet & dry on a sanding black, working up to but not over the sharp edges. Remove the masking tape and gently clean out the checkering with a suede brush. Apply a coat of sanding sealer, allow to thoroughly dry, then gently resand with 800 grit wet & dry on the sanding block as before. Apply as many coats of oil as you need, allowing a few days between each coat to properly dry before polishing with a cloth to remove any skin build-up. I use Artist's Oil which is available at any artists supply shop (Warehouse Stationery is good) as it dries quickly and is thin to apply. When you are happy with the finish then clean out the checkering with a 3-square (triangular) needle file to remove the built up oil, then brush in a light coat of oil with the suede brush. Job done!
i found after sanding that steaming the wood over a pan of water raises and "loose grain" then sand again.
Never had that issue BUT just to be safe I now use copper? bronze? wool. ( bought the stuff yonks ago so can’t remember what it is - or where I bought it)Quote:
Originally Posted by muzza
4th coat of tung-linseed blend oil. The synthetic steel wool worked a treat. Attachment 135118
