Thread: Raised cheekpiece for synthetic stock on a Sako 85

Well what do you do when you put a 50mm scope on a classic hunting rifle that was never designed for it ?
Most stocks, particularly the straight comb ones are so low you can't get good cheek contact and something needs to be done.
Sako's NZ agent tried to be helpful but there really wasn't a raised comb accessory available. Strange, because my gun has a detachable comb piece and it looks as if there should be just a higher version that could slot on instead. I see later models have gone to an integral raised cheekpiece, so this must have been a failed concept in sako development.
I wasn't convinced that an aftermarket stock would solve the problem, so decided to have a go myself.

Here's what I wanted:
Cheek weld good for 50mm scope.
Fixed stock. No detachable, moving parts.
Bolt can be taken out.
Cleaning rod can be used.
(These are all pretty well incompatible but I tried.)
I had to compromise a bit on looks, but from a distance it has more or less the line of a monte carlo stock.

This is what the butt looks like without the original detachable:

The slot on top accepts a plastic blade inside the comb and a plastic hook pulls in from the front to hold it snug in place as you tighten up the upper butt screw. It's hard to describe in words and harder to nut out looking at the real thing. Also makes for some fiddly filing to reproduce it. This hook pulls the cheekpiece down onto the stock and holds it in place.

So, I got an aftermarket plastic butt piece, which looked as if it might have been designed to fit onto a SMLE and hacksawed and filed it to replace the original but with an extra 2cm of rise. This took a lot of work.

I made up the hook part by filing a lump of plastic from an old chopping board.
After a while it would fit and be held snug by the hook when the screw was tightened.
Then I snugged it up in place and squeezed knead it epoxy putty (grey) on each side to hold the main body upright and layered 5 minute epoxy glue on top then placed the hollow cheekpiece on top and held it in place by hand till it set a bit then with duct tape overnight while it cured. This meant I could get the cheekpiece to sit just where it should be but of course the glue has no strength in tension so I then put in a couple of screws to hold the hook part firmly to the body of the cheekpiece. Here is the inside of the cheekpiece, with the white chopping board hook.



I used some roof and gutter silicone sealant all round the edges on the final assembly because ,with the original design, water would flow into the butt whenever you use the gun as a walking stick in a river. When you hold the gun horixzontal again, water flows out through a hole in the pistol grip through the action and magazine. Needless to say, the hole from the butt to the action has been filled with silicone a couple of years ago. Anyway, the silicone makes a fair glue and I don't think it will come off till I want it to.

Here's the overall line of it:


The stock now feels nice. When I bring the gun up, the scope is perfectly aligned, even on 12x. Ergonomic success !



It looks a bit tidier on the other side:


Here's a close up of the back end of it. I had to cut it into a curve so it shows the insides: the chopping board is in the midline and the knead it putty is on ether side. Small gaps are filled and its coated with clear 5 minute epoxy glue.


Detail of the front end:

I had to bend the sides of the SMLE butt in with screws to meet a grafted block of black plastic so its not elegant at all.

The bolt just clears the comb when its taken out. I would have liked to extend it a couple of centimetres forward but the bolt needed its' space.


The cleaning rod also just fits round it - there is a bit of bending but the rod guide keeps it all safe.


Functionally, it's done what I wanted and it feels good.
It looks a bit rough but I'm pleased to have done it.

A bit more fancy than that block of firewood you used to have eh

I did a similar idea on this stock I made a few years ago. It was going to be adjustable...but in the end I used a simple spacer to achieve correct cheek weld. The cheek pad was removed for cleaning rod to go in.




Kj

I've done a few rifles since I had to start shooting left handed. I planed a bit of wood to the right shape then moulded a bit of marley downpipe over it with a heat gun. Its the poor mans kydex.
Used poofter pad to pack it to the right size and 3 small screws on each side to hold it on. They work well but look a bit ugly in white. I'll look round for some coloured spouting.

Sounds interesting, so the plastic will reset and not try to return to its original shape? Always good to know little tricks like these.

Kj

yeah its very easy to use too.