Anyone recommend a product to seal a plywood floor, also would like to use the same product on ply walls. A easy to use and easy on the wallet product would be nice. Just after a clear finish like vanish but a product that doesn't go yellow.
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Anyone recommend a product to seal a plywood floor, also would like to use the same product on ply walls. A easy to use and easy on the wallet product would be nice. Just after a clear finish like vanish but a product that doesn't go yellow.
maybe Danish oil? Im in Auckland if you want a bit to try?
Bona natural is a hard wearing water based product. I have used on 2 floors and at homes we have lived in. I definitely rate it and will use again. Look Floors stock it.
@40mm thanks for the offer but to far away. I can imagine the danish will be a on going . Bona Natural sounds a good product. I will fallow up on that next week and get a price.
Its not going to be in house of the year. just starting to build a small hut tomorrow and wouldn't mind sealing the floor when i get laid before i start framing up just so its protected from day one. Saves me trying to sand out boot marks etc latter on.
Won't regret polyurethane.
ok, no worries.
I didnt realise it was for a floor.
2 coats of resene K1 Clear. A easy to apply, hard wearing water based polyurethane.
Both sides
@Pengy seal the under side as well? it will have good air flow under it and using h3.2 ply for the floor
Iam pretty sure my mate has a trade account with resene:thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Buzo
If it is a floor I would go with boiled linseed thinned with a little turps on the first coat and neat on the second. This will give a hardened finish that dirt wont stick to because of the oil surface structure, even though it is dry. If you go with Poly, it will be a soft floor (because the poly sits on top and doesn't penetrate) that will mark-up and scratch with fine dirt on the floor and dirt / dust will cling to the abraded surface. My office, my gear room and store room all have oiled floors.
Is that payment for making her floor? or are you an eternal optimist? Or are you sealing it afterwards to lock in proof that it happened...?Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbear
On a more serious note, I would be inclined to seal both sides as well. I have seen the results of flaking and damaged ply from underneath and your other half wont thank you when it breaks here best heels. Nor will you be happy when those heels go through the floor....But underneath can be any left over paint. (We used weather sheild from memory- we had three tins of different colours that we mixed into one ugly medium tan colour that worked really well....Looks like dried poo but still sealed after all these years.)
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbear
Yep. Any left over /mistints of weather shield etc will work. De -lamination can happen from both sides
Woodoc
Either water based or oil based aliphatic urethanes are non yellowing but exposed to sunlight even briefly pine will yellow, and other timbers like cedar will bleach. On a floor oil is a bad idea, it gives no protection to the timber and depending on what its thinned with can cause delamination or if in a damp area possibly mould.Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbear
Cabot's CFP Floor. Applied 2 coats 17yrs ago on my new beach "TNG" floors and still as new.
Applied 1 coat on my Mahogany bench tops and now need another coat.
I used this in a single pot application but at the time purchased a 4L plus a 1/4 L hardener but never use the hardener.
I would use this again but add the hardener just because you can and it would last longer and is harder "cheap as chips"!
With the hardener it is recommended for Gym floors!
Check it out!
I have not found this with my own boiled linseed oiled floors. They are hard and dirt resistant. I have Oregon planks as flooring not pine ply which as we all know will be softer. I guess the question is what is going to give a hard non marking surface for a floor in a hut where the OP is not likely to be wearing his slippersQuote:
Originally Posted by Marty Henry