Interesting hand sanitizerQuote:
Originally Posted by gundoc
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Interesting hand sanitizerQuote:
Originally Posted by gundoc
Yes Papa Smurf...Quote:
Originally Posted by gundoc
I did a cunning trick with that blue stuff, I refilled some used marker pens with it now no mess just pull off the cap and mark the job. BUT!!, don`t leave it in your back pocket and sit down on it, :XD:, Old blue bum.
I turned a 375 tapered swaging die to swage soft lead parallel 375 bullets for use on a muzzleloader
Now the heel is a few Thou smaller
I used the tail stock hand wheel to press them in with a flat ended pusher
Another rod to knock them out through the head stock
Attachment 134574
Attachment 134575
Attachment 134576
Made case tumbler from plastic container ,a bolt and nut and cordless drill today,biltong box yesterday.
New stock for a cheap 22LR Benchrest rifle
https://i1004.photobucket.com/albums...psanf43a2u.jpg
https://i1004.photobucket.com/albums...pstabchdoz.jpg
Nice work... What flavour .22 is that in the stock?
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Here`s my idea akaroa1, I made up a sizing dia that screws into my reloading press and a push rod in the case holder. Just place bullet on rod and lower handle, bullet popes out the top nicely sized to .459".
Attachment 134606, PP bullet ready for sliming down.
Attachment 134607, Starting into dia.
Attachment 134608, Sized and popes out the top.
@homebrew.357 I have a few of the pass through one alsoQuote:
Originally Posted by homebrew.357
But this one has a few Thou of taper
So has to come out once it reaches the correct depth
Pics of Biltong box pleaseQuote:
Originally Posted by The bomb
1971 Anschutz Model 54 22LR small bore rifleQuote:
Originally Posted by Bol Tackshin
Looks quite similar to an EM-332, at least externally. Do you know happen to know whether Norinco based theirs on the 54 action?Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiwi Greg
Today I made a custom light bar for above my milling machine
4 x 50 watt GU10 light fittings
Pull switch within arms length
Attachment 134715
Work in progress JW-145
Attachment 134764
Unsure how the lakelander got in there and upside down!
I finally got all the rust, tar and mud encrusted fasteners undone (only had to cut two) and have got all the sheet metal off back to the fire wall. I water blasted the parts and only have to do tiny rust repairs on the guards, but they total only about 4 square inches so no big deal. Next job is to disconnect the old motor and gearbox and lift them out, then I start looking at new engine and gearbox mounts, fire wall mods, etc.
Attachment 135192
@gundoc, are you keeping the ‘lucky dip’ motor etc or is it going to be ‘modernised’?
No, the entire original engine and drivetrain is being replaced with a '72 Chevy Nova 250 cid 6 cylinder (rebuilt to about 250 hp), TH350 3 speed auto, and a 8.5" Chevy 10 bolt rear end, power brakes, disc front. It will have wider 15" wheels that retain the original appearance, and be lowered a couple of inches but still look like a standard Fleetmaster. In short, a wolf in sheep's clothing! Have a look at the pictures on page 7 of this thread.
Should be a doddle with the guard's off like that. Even my galaxie didn't have as much room in the engine you'd think it would.
there certainly wouldn't be much room left over from a 460. Putting heads back on was a mission. leaning over the guard with 50kg of cast iron almost at arms reach with out buggering a gasket. hate to say I wasn't too bad at it
Thanks gundoc - sort of thing I’d do myself if I had such a car.
Got a later 30’s Ford coupe that had already been rodded in the past - so I’m rodding it even more, it won’t be a sleeper.
I’d be working on it now but (a) too many other projects and (b) none of the businesses I need stuff from are open.
Keep us posted
Same deal installing a cast iron 390 intake manifold while the motor is in the car.Quote:
Originally Posted by csmiffy
I hate to say it now but back in '60s we used to buy old pre-war V8 coupes on a Saturday, strip out the glass, bar them up, then race them at the Prebbleton Car Scrambles the following day. They would usually last for a few weeks but never more than one season. Stock car racing at its finest!Quote:
Originally Posted by Finnwolf
An old family friend was a mechanic and used to work at the local forestry camp in the late 60's early 70s.
He told me one day that every year when the recruits graduated/left for next role, there would be a bunch of old ford coupes and similar left in varying states of repair at the camp along with all the bits they used to keep them going. generally used as quick trip to the pub and shooting hacks.
Cant remember the engine specifics but suggest straight 6's and 8's?
Anyhoo they would take them all a couple of k's up the road and using the forestry excavator put them in an old dredge pond just off the road and squash them down with the bucket.
Would've been a few cars in that one.
@Finnwolf yup I was happy when I put an alloy one on mine. First time I took it off it was a bitch. Heavy as and stuck down with silicon.
Lucky it was on there as I had to take the heads one of the heads off straight after the break in run. A head gasket failed straight away. that was a fuck off I can tell you.
First crack at bedding finished.There's a number of things I'll do differently next time but it's all back together and goes click. Cant wait till lockdowns over to see if it's made any difference.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...14c438a233.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...632dfda705.jpg
Sent from my SM-G390Y using Tapatalk
Started another gun restoration project today
Any guesses and tentman and scout can't play this game
Attachment 135311
Pretty ugly inside
Took a long time to get this apart
Attachment 135335
i know of a chev 427 going spare very soon. was bought by a mate to build his truck but now going off to 527 twin turbo (he is a nutter )Quote:
Originally Posted by gundoc
High Wall or Crack shot, .25,.22 me thinks. nice old gun, barrel any good.
Ha - you scored it eh?Quote:
Originally Posted by akaroa1
@homebrew.357 only correct answer is .25 rimfireQuote:
Originally Posted by homebrew.357
Barrel is absolutely buggered inside and out
Bore pitting is more like craters
Rust build up on outside is very heavy
Yes very enjoyable afternoon in the workshop despite it being fineQuote:
Originally Posted by Tentman
Needed a break anyway
Think I have solved my barrel reaming problem, got a 12mm hand reamer, ground it down to 11.32mm/.446" Dia and the stub end to fit in a holder with oil grove. Have ground back relief on the six flutes . Normally takes me three days to ream and hone a barrel from .443" to .450", now one day and its done, comes out at .449.4" , just a bit of a polish and ready for rifling.
Attachment 135392, New reamer on long oil tube rod.
Attachment 135393, My tool post grinder attachment.
Attachment 135394, Drill in for drive, works a treat.
That looks like a Chevy fan pulley to me!
Nar, Toyota Celica 16 motor, my son built a Lynx kit car, he didn't need that bit so in my comeinhandy box. I don't only use washing machine parts you know.
Homebrew can you contour a couple of barrels now lol ?
That looks like a nice TD you have there Akaroa1, you will be making some thing cool of of that I reckon !
Im about 3/4 the way through sorting through all the brass in my garage and reloading room. I've determined that I have enough 308 brass to last me the rest of my life if I buy a 308. And now, with AR's gone, several lifetimes worth of 223. Im scratching my head at how much 270 brass I have and how I got it. Luckily I have 2x 30/06 so at least I can form. It to something useful.
Hi Scout, no can't profile a barrel, making one octagonal keeps me busy for a week or so. The grinder is for fine finishing only.
A bit more progress today. New king pin set in one side and the disc brake kit filled. I will do the other side tomorrow if the weather stays fine.
Attachment 135489
