Made a scissor blind setup for the 12ft parkercraft today...hope there is a season this year I’m the most prepared I’ve ever been!!
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Made a scissor blind setup for the 12ft parkercraft today...hope there is a season this year I’m the most prepared I’ve ever been!!
bomb....photos needed.....
Ah! That makes perfect sense as Toyota would not be here today but for the assistance and expertise provided by GM over the years.Quote:
Originally Posted by homebrew.357
I put all the parts back together and ended up with this
Winchester 1885 takedown .25 rim fire
Rough but complete
Good project
Just ( and a big just ) need to team and install a .22 barrel liner and install a vintage scope if I can find one.
Both the liner and vintage scope will be a challenge in nz
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Made myself a body die and a seater for a 6 Norma Dasher.
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A little 'Ahh shit!' moment. The kingpin is well rusted into the eye. I have had the eye glowing red while under extreme pressure with the cramp only got a few thou out of it. I will let it soak overnight in penetrating oil and have a go again tomorrow. If we get a frost tonight I will hit the eye with the gas again and that might do it if I can keep the pin cold, speed being of the essence!
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sit the suspension arm on something solid and try a decent square hit with a heavy sledge hammer the jack will absorb the shock it you use jack to support the arm
ATF and acetone mix is meant to be the bees knees for ‘unseizing’ things
That and a b.f.h.!
PS: have you tried loading up the clamp pressure and then giving the top of the clamp a hard whack with a hammer while supporting the other end of the clamp?
Id sit down -with a nice glass of single malt --snuggle up close ..and in your most sultry voice murmur
you do as I say
Or
Chuck Norris is on the next waka headed this way and you will know what pain is all about
I trust im understood!!
An unfortunate design means the upper control arm curves out over the line of the king pin and you can only get an angled blow at it, about 10 degrees off line. I got another 1/8" out of it a few minutes ago so will leave it soaking overnight. A good point about the jack absorbing the blow. I will put a solid support under the spindle tomorrow.
now listen old chasp -ive a psycho babble solution to your problem .Quote:
Originally Posted by gundoc
take another gulp of scotlands finest
lean in close to the offending joint
and in remembrance of one of countrys finest men GeorgeJones
croon
"I FALL TO PIECES
AND I SUGGEST YOU FUCKING DO TOO
option two
If you know any old westcoast coal miners -
a suitably applied dollop of Nobels #5
lavishly wrapped about that reticent joint
and ignited once youre undercover in the dunny or outside
mat prove you wont take no for an answer
just sayin like:thumbsup:
Option1 is the preferred choice and I have the required components in a wee selection oh Heeland malts.Quote:
Originally Posted by kotuku
Option 2 is tempting but a tad too close to my workshop, not to mention the judge next door!
On the yucky rusty tight fitting stuff it's like previously mentioned.
A bit like a slipping socket. If there is the slightest give any impact is lessened significantly.
You`v all got it wrong, you pour the single malt extract over the flaming pin, then the roasting trick, breath in the heavenly fumes. :P,, now what was I meant to be doing.:2 z Z:
Wow, that looks very nice. I would love to see some more of the process. Im guessing you reamed it yourself? Did you use a bought die reamer or conjure one up yourself?Quote:
Originally Posted by Klhari
Are all the locking nuts and stems etc made by you? What material did you use?
Im looking into making my own reamers and dies for wildcat cartridges and projectiles so would be very interested in seeing some more.
A good Friday! Thanks for the tips! The support block under the spindle certainly helped but I had to make up a special drift as well to properly direct the hammer blows. Suspension, king pins and disc brakes done (the 8" wheels are only temporary till the new 6" front ones arrive). Next will be to remove the seats and open up the floor, then disconnect the drive train. You can see from the second photo that she is a fairly tidy old girl for a 73 year old.
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Excellent work gundoc!!
Watch when you mount the diff that you make an allowance for the fact that the center bolt of the rear springs won’t have the dif in the right location if you mount it in the traditional manner otherwise your dif will be too far to the rear. ( or front, it’s been a decade or two si ce I last looked a. Chev torque-tube drive line!)
To get an idea have a look at the factory pivot point on the dif.
And don’t cut the mounts off the original dif and weld them onto the new dif, they’re designed to operate with a torque-tube.
@csmiffy easily available where ?
I would buy one in a flash if I could find one
Just about to go practice on an old barrel to see how to turn one down to 1/2"
The older pre ‘55 Chevs had them, not sure how far back they went, probably to mid 30’s.Quote:
Originally Posted by csmiffy
Now just moving right along there I have converted my long suffering lathe to a rifling machine. Hand cutting six groves .010" thou deep to give at bore size of .470" and a rifling twist of 1-48", the standed for muzzle loaders. Here you can see my improved set up, well sort of. There`s no such thing as" Can't do it".
Attachment 135742, Rifling head ready to go, rifling register pin at #1.
Attachment 135743, Cutter head pulled through .
Attachment 135744, The sine bar that drives the rifling head at the back of the lathe, low down for slow twist.
Good luck.
Turning there was a gunsmith in the north island that had some a couple of years back.
I wanted a 17 can for a possible wsm but he reckoned they weren't any good for that.
I'll have to dig through the memory banks
@akaroa1 had a dig through the emails and you are right.
It was Dean Maisey but it was a 17 liner and the last one he had. He reckoned they weren't exported out of the US anymore.
The current original rear end is a torque tube but I am replacing it with a Chevy 10 bolt and an open driveshaft, a TH350 3-speed auto and the rebuilt '72 Chevy 250 inline 6. The entire original running gear from engine to wheels is coming out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Finnwolf
ContactsQuote:
Originally Posted by small_caliber
It's been a long search to find one
All the 1885 takedowns are coil spring.
@small_caliberQuote:
Originally Posted by small_caliber
Here is an 1885 I did 2 winters ago from a bare low wall action only
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And a high wall that I'm doing this winter from a total wreck.
Still have to make new firing pin and re bore the original #3 Barrel
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And this afternoon I burgled a 6x Malcolm scope off my Stevens 44 1/2
Found some mounting blocks and drilled and taped them on to the 1885 takedown .25 RF
Just wanted to see what it would be like with a decent vintage scope on board.
It's sweet
Now i just need to find a donor barrel to turn a liner out of and I can rip into that bore
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Shit there’s some clever buggers on here , some good kiwi inginuity going on , I’m reading The book on Burt Munro ( worlds fastest Indian ) at the moment , what he made in his shed was incredible especially considering the gear he had
By chance any one know of a Stephens favourite .22 butt stock?
Got one at home that its previous owner tried to club a possum with bad results.
@ghosts give me a reminder after LEVEL 4 and I might be able to dig one up from outside my bubbleQuote:
Originally Posted by ghosts
That's awesum @akaroa . Will do.
Easter weekend seemed like a good time to redo the bottom metal on the EM-332... Here's a pic. Attachment 136276 I don't have many toys to play with, so the EM is getting a fair amount of attention!
I started a new butt stock for my Stevens 44 1/2
Picked out a particularly gnarly piece of walnut
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Spent a few hours inletting the tangs and the fiddly but that goes inside the receiver shoulder
Lots of smoke and fit and smoke and fit
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Then I fitted the reproduction steel shotgun butt plate
And got into a lot of stock removal.
The hardest piece of walnut I have worked on for ages.
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Still a hell of a lot to remove to get this into shape.
And it's going to be a bitch to sand
@akaroa1 - she's a beauty!
It looks and feels like a club at the moment but another half day on it and it will be getting into shapeQuote:
Originally Posted by Bol Tackshin
It's been a long slow project getting that vintage rifle back into shooting condition
But another wreck saved
I fined down the butt stock today
And made a solid start on the fire end
Still needs finessing
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Great stuff, Thank you for sharing !
Makes me feel slack as I have 3-4 Lee Speed type stocks fit myself .
Drilled out a storage space under the buttplate of my 10/22 today,makes it a lot lighter as well,Balance’s better for offhand shots being a little front heavy now.
@Scout You have an excuseQuote:
Originally Posted by Scout
I got the butt closer to shape and started sanding it
Still all the tricky bit to do yet.
But it's starting to look nice
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Wow - beautiful grain in that piece of wood!
