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I keep those boots so I can pretend that I am still capable of work. I think the guys can see through me, but so far they are polite about it.
The rifle is a .54, with a 1:66' twist for roundballs - 230 grains of soft lead goodness starting off @1700 fps.
@Ross Nolan nice rifle and even better it's left handedQuote:
Originally Posted by Ross Nolan
I have three proper left hand MLs and some wrong handed ones
More info
Own build, finishing someone else's project or a kit ?
It's a Jim Chambers English sporting rifle kit, with a L&R left handed round faced lock and Rice barrel. Chambers used their RH stock for the kit, but didn't inlet the lock.
I'm happy with it - light, accurate and plenty of poke. I built an aperture sight that dovetails into the tang and doesn't look too out of place because it was put together as a hunting rifle and I'm not 16 any more....Attachment 177105
Unusual that the lock is on the left, I can only remember muzzle loaders having their lock on the right. (And being a lefty that makes for a certain amount of trepidation when firing)
Very niceQuote:
Originally Posted by Ross Nolan
That's what I like to see
Yes not 16 anymore but when you were 16 you had other things on your mind and flintlock rifles wasn't one of them
Left hand locks were uncommon on single shot riflesQuote:
Originally Posted by Finnwolf
But they were made for double barrel rifles and shotguns
So not unheard of
The left hand back action lock on my .72 musket is likely to have come off a scrapped out double barrel shotgun
Original left hand single barrel guns are practically unknown, but I'm blind in my right eye and pretty protective of the left one - so a left hand lock gets the nod.
That said, I'd rather shoot a right hand flinter than a right handed cap gun - caps spray stuff everywhere. Of course, when you build one, you can build whatever you want, so left hand lock it is..
Yes percussion caps do regularly spit bits in the face that are hot and stick on
Flinters don't have this issue
My next muzzleloader build is going to be a percussion big bore and I'm considering using musket caps because they are less likely to spit out hot pieces
They are also easier to place on the nipple when hunting due to size and the small wings on them
What about a Mortimer..... maybe .62
Or this
https://americanlongrifles.org/forum...?topic=66472.0
Finished, ready to rezero.
A high pressure 577 with big conicals will be the next buildQuote:
Originally Posted by Ross Nolan
.62 patched round balls are starting to work if it is rifled
My .72 musket is easy to shoot and accurate enough but not for much more than 75m
Round 2 of lockdown projects, this time an ancient Vostok 22 ( no mention of Toz on it).
I’ll sand and linseed oil the stock, not sure what to do with the pressed-in ‘engraving’ on the pistol grip.
And I’ll buff up the barrel and bolt, I’ve already given them a clean with turps and brake-clean, lots of crud came out.
I need a rear site and magazine to complete the rifle, the hunt is on!
A follow-up to post #302 for those who are interested; I got out this morning to try a few rounds of the .22 target ammo that I'd hollow-pointed. Ammunition is RWS Target Rifle and I fired 5 shots each of 2.0mm HP depth, 2.5mm HP depth and 3.0mm HP depth as well as a couple of groups of unmodified ammo for comparison. Rifle is my Voere 2000 and range was 50m.
Good news is that accuracy certainly didn't suffer with the 2.0mm and 2.5mm hollowpoints, as these were actually the best groups of all. The jury is out on the 3.0mm hollowpoints as they showed a bit more spread, but then so did the unmodified solid-nose rounds? I think my latest lot number of RWS Target Rifle might not be anywhere near as good as the last couple of bricks. The last lot I had shot excellently, but this one appears to have a lot of vertical stringing. It would be interesting to have run these over a chronograph. Anyway, 5 shot groups with 2.0mm HP and 2.5mm HP went 21.0mm and 18.5mm respectively. The 3.0mm HP and unmodified rounds each put 4 shots into slightly under an inch and the 5th dropped low. Not great performance even if you don't count the 5th shot.
I happened to have a box of Eley subsonic HP ammo with me which I hadn't tried through this rifle before, so I banged off a couple of quick groups and got 9.5mm and 14.5mm for a <0.5" average. Much more like normal performance. This RWS grade isn't particularly expensive ammo - I paid I think $8/50rds - but I expected better.
I also fired one of the 2.5mm HP rounds into a line of water filled containers (whatever I could find in the recycling bin) just to have a look at expansion. Pictures below. I don't expect this test to be really representative of on-game performance, but it was interesting all the same. It didn't open up quite as much as I might have thought but it's definitely more expansion than I'd expect from a standard solid. From close examination I think it may have started tumbling at it made it's way through the containers.
https://i.imgur.com/Jw8ytZXh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Ekjxcueh.jpg
Patience is a virtue! I finally fired up my fully rebuilt '46 Chevy Fleetmaster yesterday after a 2+ year effort. I was delayed by a wee health problem for a few months and then delays in getting parts from the USA (plus some gun work). The last few weeks have been spent trying to sort out the Mickey Mouse wiring shambles that someone did about 1980. I lost patience with it and cut the lot out and fully rewired the car front to back. The rebuilt '72 vintage 250 cubic inch inline 6 is now putting out 260 HP and has a real mean cackle through the twin pipes. I just have to bleed the brakes and it is road test time, just in time for summer cruising!
@gundoc Photos, Photos, Photos, Photos, Photos, Photos, Photos, Photos, Photos, Photos, Photos, .......................PHOTOS!! :drool:Quote:
Originally Posted by gundoc
Why are we waiting. do we need to say "Please"? please, photos.Quote:
Originally Posted by hotbarrels
Work so far; new radiator and overflow tank, '74 chevy 250 cid 6 cylinder reworked to 260 horsepower, rewired, new gauges, bucket seats, centre console, CD, reversing camera, TH350 3-speed auto with B&M shifter, Chevy 10-bolt rear end (2.73:1), twin pipes, power brakes with front discs, 15" American racing mags (8" rear, 6" front), new tele shocks, lowered 2". All work done by me except for upholstery. Still to do; bleed brakes, connect handbrake cables, prep and painting (still cogitating on final colour), certification and WOF.Attachment 180362Attachment 180363Attachment 180364Attachment 180365
@gundoc, looking awesome mate , how's the bush baby Mk 2 coming along ?
I have got all the basic bits for a .44 Mag version but I have to finish the stock latch on the Mk 1, and a few other people are waiting on jobs so I will get them sorted first. It is bloody busy being retired!Quote:
Originally Posted by viper
