Thread: Stickmaking

Well Shootm I had mine up in my shed for about a year , but it could have been done long before that. Do not cut it to length before its dry it dose crack.

Originally Posted by HILLBILLYHUNTERS

Well Shootm I had mine up in my shed for about a year , but it could have been done long before that. Do not cut it to length before its dry it dose crack.

Cheers

Made the shooting stick years back when stuck in a rainy hut - stripped it and let it dry out - then cut to size many months later. Not intentionally, just how it worked out.
Over the years the v got screwed and glued in, and a big screw and washer screwed into the tip to stop it getting hammered.
The Irish fighting stick or shillelagh was just bit of a laugh for my younger sister, she has a cabinet of things on display that could hurt people.

I have been trying to finish this gun support ... my friends in Devon will do a product review on it...their first shoot this coming weekend and I should have had it over there by now...



Have only stabbed myself with the awl once...and that was on Tuesday night...I now know that the C S Osborne diamond awl is indeed very sharp...

Bit late to this thread but some interesting stuff. My dad was a muster and culler (Sth Is) in the early 50's) and always had a great interest in "knibbies", he always had a few drying and one on the go, plus a pile of broken ones.

Anyhow for decades the debate was between Lancewoods and Manuka/Kanuka, I sorta like Lancewood best as its not as brittle. Dad always preferred Manuka.

About 20 years ago they were living down the Coast and a Maori chap (Paul Wilson if I recall correctly) suggested that Kowhai was the best (no doubt based on quite a few words from his tupuna tāne). Well that was new one on us but a stick was secured and put up. Several years ago not long before he passed Dad asked me if I would make a new stick for Mum and handed me this bit of stick (the Kowhai). Well what a magic bit of wood, nice to work, light and really really tough and strong. Mum has since also passed and I have the stick here, its a beaut. So try a bit of Kowhai, dammed hard to find a suitable bit but worth it.

I still believe the best stick makers on earth bar none are trees

Originally Posted by Shootm

So going by your examples how long do reckon it takes to dry?A year? Only cut this morning.

Gee, sorry @Shootm...yes a year is good so it is absolutely dry...I really like that Sambar antler...

Originally Posted by EeeBees

Gee, sorry @Shootm...yes a year is good so it is absolutely dry...I really like that Sambar antler...

Seems to be varying opinions on this one - longer is safer, as you're guaranteed that its dried centre out, and won't split.
I've had stuff split on me thats been left to dry 3+ years - splits after cutting. But that was quite a significant thickness (Totara rounds).

I reckon you can fast forward it by keeping inside at room temperature - standard thickness thumbstick or the like you can get away with about 6mths.

I've just put down 3 solid ones...... sealed both ends with spraypaint - see how they go.

A good family friend makes custom sticks.

Made this glasses case today...still the burnishing to finish off...lined it with pigskin...the 12 gauge snap is possibly a bit over the top

Now that I have gone the 20g way, I intend to make an ammo belt...made this pocket camera pouch yesterday to go on the belt as well...

Sent this lot off to the Olde Country yesterday...five plait flats, four plait rounds...

Just discovered this thread @EeeBees. The title had me fooled. Recently I was researching shepherds staff on the net. The preferred woods were hazel (filbert)and lancewood. I have a couple of hazelnut trees out the back so will cut some staves and start the drying process. Staffs I have made from Kanuka and manuka always break unless thicker than about 35mm, which makes them heavy.

I noticed some of the pics showed staffs with bark still attached. Why is this? Is it just for looks, or is there a purpose?

@Woody, keeping the bark on is up to you really...the holly staff which has now got three of seven coats of marine varnish reacts to the varnish or should that be that the varnish reacts to the holly (it has very astringent qualities) and will it will end up being black...save for the notches which I will leave as is...I like the bark on especially with say wattle as it has a curious pattern on it which to me is attractive...if you are wanting a precise staff then a spoke shave or a draw knife will get the symmetical symmetric!! I like a degree of rusticity to them...just my thoughts!!! I love the hazelnut...

I want one of these gadgets...!!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WJE83_LWC0g

Tobacco pouch...just got more burnishing and finishing off to do and it is done...