Thread: Switch barrel : any experience ?

Anyone here done a switch barrel rife ?

Specifically interested in comments around recoil lug pinning vs lug alignment tool

Also internal vs external action wrench setups.

At the moment my thoughts are leaning to the following:

Happy to remove the action & barrel from the bedded stock, but still keen on internal / rear entry wrench so that I can leave the bases on the action.

Same bolt face for both calibers, slim barrel for general hunting, heavy profile for varmint.

Originally Posted by ebf

Anyone here done a switch barrel rife ?

Specifically interested in comments around recoil lug pinning vs lug alignment tool

Also internal vs external action wrench setups.

At the moment my thoughts are leaning to the following:

Happy to remove the action & barrel from the bedded stock, but still keen on internal / rear entry wrench so that I can leave the bases on the action.

Same bolt face for both calibers, slim barrel for general hunting, heavy profile for varmint.

What a mammoth fuck around that sounds like

Solution

Yeah well James, I am missing the 6k for the blouser, and have a lefty action and both barrels already so looking to make the most of what I have...

Originally Posted by ebf

Yeah well James, I am missing the 6k for the blouser, and have a lefty action and both barrels already so looking to make the most of what I have...

Buy a second hand Blaser for less than half that. Sell the action and send the tubes to Abe. Solved

Originally Posted by ebf

Yeah well James, I am missing the 6k for the blouser, and have a lefty action and both barrels already so looking to make the most of what I have...

Blouser


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Originally Posted by username

Blouser


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Oh comon, you've not heard that one yet?

Mauser have a switch barrel rifle

A Blaser wouldn't be my ideal solution either. I have seen a remington actioned switch barrel where the barrel knox had some flats milled on it and the owner had a custom made barrel wench to suit and an action wrench.

many people use the barnard as a switch barrel platform i think?

Using the aluminium bedding block means no recoil lug worries

http://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co.n...ead.php?t=6202

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Barrel clamp is just a hole drilled in some steel and a slot cut with hacksaw, you don't need anything more than that. That is what we used to change the barrel on my Omark.

Internal action wrench can be dead simple as well.

Machine the barrel correctly, and you just tighten it to a known torque spec...

I own a Schultz and Larsen 308 Classic dl (which is a switch barrel rifle). I have a 21inch standard profile barrel and a jaktmatch fluted sporting /hunting barrel at 25 inches. Shoots very well and the original rifle less than 3 g. I saw one in 6.5*55 in Outdoorsman Rotorua the other day for about $2700. Extra barrels about $1500 last time I asked James Pain. I think Sauer also offer a switch barrel option.

Originally Posted by Woody

I own a Schultz and Larsen 308 Classic dl (which is a switch barrel rifle). I have a 21inch standard profile barrel and a jaktmatch fluted sporting /hunting barrel at 25 inches. Shoots very well and the original rifle less than 3 g. I saw one in 6.5*55 in Outdoorsman Rotorua the other day for about $2700. Extra barrels about $1500 last time I asked James Pain. I think Sauer also offer a switch barrel option.

Nice looking rifle. What do you do to run calibers with different head sizes?

Originally Posted by Blaser

Nice looking rifle. What do you do to run calibers with different head sizes?

I use 308 in both barrels; however the same bolt will accept about a dozen different cartridges of similar base diameter. S&L offer various magazine stops to accommodate varying cartridge lengths and also an alternative bolt to accommodate a range of magnum calibres. One might question the advantage OF HAVING A SWITCH BARREL INSTEAD OF TWO SEPERATE RIFLES, BUT AT THE END OF THE DAY THE EXTRA BARREL AND PERHAPS MAG AND BOLT costs less than a whole extra rifle and scope. The Schultz and Larsen are not a lightweight rifle, mine weighs over 8 lbs, but very well made and finished. The barrels are machined such that the 3 lug bolt head locks inside the barrel when the rifle is loaded so headspace is consistent. Mine will shoot 1/2 moa groups with handloads from either barrel so it is at least as accurate as my Sako 85 but in my opinion the S&L is a better finished rifle. S&L have a web site and I seem to recall a page on there which describes the barrel, calibre, magazine and bolt options. For instance, if I were to purchase a magnum bolt and magazine AND A 7MM MAGNUM BARREL, I COULD FIT THESE TO MY EXISTING RECIEVER AND STOCK IN ABOUT 5 MINUTES. (sOrry about the capitals, I keep hitting the caps lock by mistake) There are also several higher grades of rifles and stocks, as with other brands, available. I can only speak from my own experience, but I am very happy with mine.

I've got a Rem700 in .308 and 7SAUM. Sits in an AICS stock. Recoil lug pinned as wanted to be able to change barrels without removing stock. I use an rear entry action wrench as the side entry interfered with the scope. Torque to the same each time and things "shouldn't" be an issue. I use a modified .308 AI 5 round mag theat feeds both cartridges and a PT&G Bolt for the 7SAUM. Just have to load test the 7SAUM.