Nice. Great to have beautiful timber on hand like that, especially as it’s from your own piece of dirt.
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Nice. Great to have beautiful timber on hand like that, especially as it’s from your own piece of dirt.
@PaulNZ how is it coming along?
Excellent thread!
Slowly :). I did the final duplication down to 1.5mm oversize a few months ago, then it got bumped down the project list a few steps. There's been a woodworking centre to strip and rebuild, and the recoil pad grinding jig, and the lathe outboard turning setup, and the boring bar holder, and the mods to my Ruger 77/22, and working over the single shot .22 for my daughter, and adapting lathe steady rests, and no doubt a few bits and pieces I've forgotten as well. I work more slowly than some of the other guys on this forum anyway.
Back to the Anschutz, I did complete the new bolt handle and trigger blade - I'll see if I can post a picture or 2. Hopefully back to the stock in a few weeks :thumbsup:
Here's a picture of the standard bolt knob and trigger blade (not actually my rifle, I just copied it off Google):
Attachment 157409
The replacement trigger blade from 316 stainless (not the best photo):
https://i.imgur.com/aXBPn7tl.jpg?1
The replacement bolt knob - still to be blued:
https://i.imgur.com/EWVWYPel.jpg?1
The bolt knob in particular was more fiddly than it looks. The threaded shank under the old plastic knob was actually larger in diameter than the rest of the bolt handle, which would have prevented any kind of nice, seamless fit. I had to start by accurately grinding down and rethreading this section to a smaller diameter. All good fun.
Jeez my local gunsmith doesn’t even want to drill and tap my 44 mag barrel for a front sight,not enough meat left in the barrel he says,,yet you can produce stuff like this!!!
@The bomb really? is it quite a skinny barrel? Maybe at the least sweat one on.
But i digress
Back to the nice work
Well, I reckon it's a lot easier working on your own possessions in your own time. I'm sure I'd end up well under minimum wage if I tried this stuff professionally!Quote:
Originally Posted by The bomb
Your gunsmith may be right about drilling and tapping, but surely he can offer alternatives? Sweating one on as mentioned above, or putting on a sleeved/banded type of front sight?
He reakons sweating on can wreck barrel and he put the barrel band suggestion I made in the too hard basket,getting any gun parts from the states is a pain as I’m sure there will be a barrel band option available.
Blued Rossi with the front sight all one piece with the forward barrel band,need to put a higher hi viz front sight on somehow,he showed me a couple of Rossi barrels that were cracked under the dovetail cutout where front sight was so ruled out that option as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by csmiffy
Only about 4mm of barrel thickness to work with.Quote:
Originally Posted by csmiffy
Well I'm no expert, but 4mm sounds like it should be do-able for drill and tap? Sweating is commonly used so not sure why it should wreck the barrel (other than the finish). Failing all that, have a look at Loctite Black Maxx adhesive. I've never used it myself, but have read several times of it being used for attaching sights with good results.
Litle bit pedantic, but maybe not the hight temp sweating, more soldering.
In saying that i have a 357 exactly the same. Why cant he put a dovetail on the front barrel band/front sight assembly to suit a hi-vis blade?
Definitely not lack of experience,he has been in the business for decades!!more like a lack of motivation..
Here’s the setupAttachment 157970
I think there would be several ways of achieving your aim, but if your looking for a different idea would it be possible to grind the front blade off and drill and tap the top of the barrel band block for a fiber optic front bead like they put on shotguns? This may not be high enough? Or do you need windage adjustment of the foresight also?
All I would say is your level of trust differs from mine, ask Dave Gibson about the guy he uses.Quote:
Originally Posted by The bomb
I could weld the hi viz ramp to the band
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
More like lack of options!!Quote:
Originally Posted by tetawa
The sight in the picture is the correct height for a 50m zero ,would like to be able to remove the front sight as it’s really a backup in case the red dot dies or for hunting in the rain hence the drill and tap being the preferred option..Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulNZ
We could grind the front blade off the band, then notch out the hi viz ramp to suit and drill and tap the two together
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Similar to this but would it be possible cut the blade off from the front sight. Mill a slot then pin a new hi viz blade the right height?Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulNZ
Wondering if I should try and buy a spare front band and try to alter that in one of the ways mentioned here,at least if it goes to shit I still have the original.
Well, after working through a long list of other distractions I've finally made the time to give my stock a bit more attention. Not a whole lot, but at least it's forward progress!
Getting ready for pillar installation:
https://i.imgur.com/BBVPQlQh.jpg
Pillars in, mag well and trigger guard cuts complete, initial barrel channel cut done and recess cut for fore-end reinforcement:
https://i.imgur.com/Layife1h.jpg
Reinforcement fitted and epoxied. Under the epoxy are 2x lengths of 6mm thickwall carbon fibre tube and 1x length of 11mm x 2mm carbon fibre strip. Probably unnecessary, but nice to have some insurance against the fore-end ever warping:
https://i.imgur.com/Cd0i8PBh.jpg
It'll probably get put aside for another week or so now, then back on the mill to carry on with the rest of the inletting.
Inletting of barrelled action and bottom metal has gone as far as I'm going to take it on the mill. Time to break out the inletting black and sharpen up the chisels and scrapers for the final fitting...
https://i.imgur.com/ceX6Ww9h.jpg
It's been a long time since I updated this thread, but for those who are still interested I got the first coat of finish on today. Poor photos I'm afraid, but with the finish still wet I wasn't about to move it somewhere more photogenic:
https://i.imgur.com/S5LcO6Xh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/uJkzxzHh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/rmDLPOVh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/OzQOmRVh.jpg
That looks awesome. Your a skilled man
and a tidy one looking at the pics
Nice work and an excellent piece of wood with an ideal grain through the full length.
Thanks for the kind words. Having come this far, I'm just trying not to screw it up now!
beautiful bit of wood , and very nice work as well , well done
Paul.Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulNZ
This has been a fantastic read. You are very talented. I read with interest because I have an Anschutz 1712 22.
Nice rifles, aren't they. Is yours a hunting rifle or for targets/silhouette?Quote:
Originally Posted by Taupohunter
Looking great, wish I had the patience for traditional inletting. I tend to just mill out a pocket and bed the whole inlet area. All of the stocks I have made so far have been painted though. What sort of chisels and scrapers are you using for the inletting? Anything special or specific? I have a large assortment of chisels, but a limited number of scrapers.
For proper traditional inletting I'd defer to Hunter_Nick; like you I would prefer to use the mill where possible. Your approach makes perfect sense if the stock is going to be painted - I'd do the same. As far as inletting tools, probably the only special/specific ones I have are the 3 homemade ones in the picture below:Quote:
Originally Posted by SixtyTen
https://i.imgur.com/7LJc7c4h.jpg
The top one is a small chisel I made to work specifically on the tang area. It's a piece of 4mm drill rod which I centre-drilled, hardened, and then ground at an angle to make a little in-cannel gouge.
The centre one is very basic - just a length of broken bi-metal hacksaw blade onto which I ground a couple of scraper profiles. With the HSS teeth ground off, the body of the blade seems to be just the right hardness to turn and hold a good scraping burr. I 'turn' the burr with the shank of a carbide drill bit held in a pin vise. The piece of all-hard hacksaw blade I tried this with didn't work as well - the burr tended to chip instead of roll.
Bottom one is a cranked-neck incannel gouge. Source material was a woodturning gouge from a secondhand shop which had the standard external bevel. I cut off the tang, welded it to a bent piece of all-thread (through rod with a smooth finish would have been better!) and ground the internal bevel. Worked really well for the barrel channel.
Other than those I have a set of cheap 'Mastercarver' detail chisels like these https://www.timberlywoodturning.co.n...isels--601001- and some standard straight chisels - nothing special.
Well I can finally close out this thread - I think I'm done. Stock is checkered (I don't think it came out too bad for a first effort), rifle is assembled and sighted in. A few photos for your interest:
https://i.imgur.com/82Awg9yh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/huhl9IUh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/IcbYHNAh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/5Iaxmywh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/qXVsAXdh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/mu9xTPsh.jpg
I'm not the best photographer, but the close-up photos are closer to the real stock colour than the full length ones.
This has certainly been a long drawn out project, but mostly enjoyable. Special thanks to @ariki for the sling swivels and @rambo-6mmrem for the rust-bluing solution; I put it to good use when I unexpectedly had to make a replacement sling swivel base. Factory original on the right and homemade copy (with deliberately different top radius) on the left.
https://i.imgur.com/TdBNxg6h.jpg
Wow ,that sir is something else
.Hells bells Im seein on here what Im seeing on facebook coming out of finest UK/european gunsmiths.
about the only difference is the FBjobs inevitably have acres of engraving /scrollwork and you jneed a sizeable mortgage to even contemplate owning it!
Nice of you to say kotuku, but there's at least one other big difference; a proper gunsmith could do the above fast enough to pay the bills! I think I'd starve to death if I was trying to do this professionally :DQuote:
Originally Posted by kotuku
Being able to take whatever time you need makes up for a lot.
I think your wood choice was perfect. The grain is not too ornate and flows with the classic lines of the stock. The overall aesthetic is beautifully balanced and she just cries to be picked up and used.
