What Glue for knife handles

I team so I made a pretty cool knife last year however the glue partly lifted and the handle cracked as the grain was facing the wrong way so iv finally gotten around to making a new one almost finished it I was in the process of drilling a couple of holes in the handle when I noticed movement, iv used this araldite 90 seconds twice now and it’s shit , it says it’s good for 75 kg , also I left it to cure for around 20 hours before tinkering with it , I’m hoping the 2 holes I drilled will pull it all back into place ...so what is the best glue to use ?.
Cheers.
Attachment 135716

Use standard epiglue which takes 24 hours to set.

JM weld epoxy
amazing stuff for dissimilar surfaces

I don’t use the ‘instant’ stuff; I’ve always felt the traditional two pot recipe stuff was the best

You are going to run a pair of rivets/fixings of some sort through the holes right? A rod of brass and piened back at each end for example?

Nice knife. Nessmuk style. What's the wood you're using? Got some nice grain.

I've always used Araldite super strength (24 hour set). Seems to have worked well. I have a couple of knives over 20 years old held together with it (and brass/stainless pins).

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Shearer

I've always used Araldite super strength (24 hour set). Seems to have worked well. I have a couple of knives over 20 years old held together with it (and brass/stainless pins).

---

araldite 24 is great no argument but jm epoxy is so much stronger its scary. i got a thumbnail sized bit on top of a door once and it glued the damn door shut big time. i have glue rifle stock together with it and never had it come loose. its also a nice grey colour when set so looks like metal

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SiB

I don’t use the ‘instant’ stuff; I’ve always felt the traditional two pot recipe stuff was the best

You are going to run a pair of rivets/fixings of some sort through the holes right? A rod of brass and piened back at each end for example?

---

Yes iv got some 2mm brass rod I’ll put through did have some 5mm stuff but it’s disappeared .

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by stevodog

Nice knife. Nessmuk style. What's the wood you're using? Got some nice grain.

---

Thanks , blade isn’t quite to shape yet but pretty close the wood is some type of ironwood a mate dropped me off a hunk it was pretty ruff Took me ages to get a decent bit , should be sweet when I get some linseed oil on it , I managed to remove the handle so iv got it looking even better now those 2 holes make things line up great , now to find some glue ...don’t think mitre 10 will be open any time soon !!

I thought that you would use a Borax based glue ?? Araldite absorbs moisture and degrades over time doesn't it ??

Sweet, should come up good. Love the hump on the spine.
Supercheap auto are going mail orders for epoxy

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Boaraxa

..iv used this araldite 90 seconds twice now and it’s shit ..
Cheers.
Attachment 135716

---

Dead right, it's not on the same planet as trad Super Strength 24hr stuff.

I used araldite 24hr for years with good results. The key is to scuff the steel well with at laest 100g paper and clean with acetone. Handle should be freshly sanded the same and free of dust (hit it with an air compressor if you can)
What is absolutely crucial is to not over clamp the joint when gluing as you want some glue still in the joint and it is quite possible to squeeze it all out.

Our collective, constructive knowledge is so inspiring!!!!

Seriously!

Any good slow curing epoxy. Make sure to key a few hols in the ha dle and tang material for a good fix

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by gonetropo

araldite 24 is great no argument but jm epoxy is so much stronger its scary. i got a thumbnail sized bit on top of a door once and it glued the damn door shut big time. i have glue rifle stock together with it and never had it come loose. its also a nice grey colour when set so looks like metal

---

I'lll try this next time as I have only been using the Super strength stuff. This sounds good though. Used the super strength for my pillers on my rifle stock.
There it worked a treat. Its clear but the grey colour sounds good. Thanks @gonetropo :)

Nice looking knife @Boaraxa

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mauser308

And degrease the snot out of both surfaces with an alcohol degreaser not a hydrocarbon one. Contact cleaner I think is ok, or at least some of them are?

---

If your going to degrease the timber, let it sit for at least an hour afterwards before gluing to allow the solvent to fully evaporate, otherwise you can get solvent trapped in the glue join.