Thread: Advice on Installing a Gun Safe When Wall Nogs Don’t Align with Pre-Drilled Holes

Hi everyone,

I’m in the process of installing a new gun safe at home and could use some advice. I understand that it needs to be securely bolted into the wall nog (the wooden framing inside the wall). However, I’ve run into a bit of a snag: the wall nogs don’t line up with the pre-drilled holes in my safe.

I was thinking about using a wood buffer to bridge the gap and allow me to bolt the safe properly. My concern is that this might leave a noticeable gap between the safe and the wall. Has anyone dealt with a similar situation? Do you have any recommendations or alternative solutions to ensure the safe is securely and neatly installed?

Any tips or insights would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

Anybody you know with a decent battery drill to drill new holes in the safe? That’s all I did

Yep drill new holes
One into the floor is always good too if possible !
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Easier to make the holes in the safe line up with the wall - otherwise you'll need some sort of structure in the wall to bolt too. Which is generally going to require the gib to hatched, the new structure installed and the gib refixed and patched. Path of least resistance here is put the holes in the safe in the right place!

Next point of call is what are you putting it on, carpet? It might pay to look into "carpet saver" feet, I have seen these that are solid plastic but designed to sit on the corners of square heavy furniture and all they do is give a small air gap under the safe to stop it crushing the carpet - this can end up with the carpet going rotten over years as any moisture can't escape.

As mentioned, make holes in the safe for the Nogs where you need them to be. As you are doint htis, put the bolts closer to the edge of the safe as it gives better resistance to getting the safe away from the wall for leverage.


Also if you have space inside the safe, put a piece of 3mm steel or anything similar across between the bolts on the inside (like awasher that goes right across the back ...) . That way if a scumbag tries to pry the safe off they wall, the safe may distort but it will be much much harder for the scrotum nuggets to gain access to the insides as the bolt heads will not pull through the holes.....

Mines bolted to a stud inside a wardrobe Instead of nogs as it's a stronger option and big square washers on coachbolts

And remeber the first rule....to breach a safe, first they must find it......What better way to screw with them than have them waste 30 minutes trying to breach a safe and when they succeed, they find rags and rusty shit like fish hooks or steel scrap ........I know a cuple people who, when they upgraded their safe, they used the old one where it could be 'discovered' then made it as secure as practical then used it to store awkward stuff they didnt want lying around but did not want to throw out either.......

Originally Posted by Happy Jack

Mines bolted to a stud inside a wardrobe Instead of nogs as it's a stronger option and big square washers on coachbolts

Why’s it stronger?

Originally Posted by Kelton

Why’s it stronger?

Studs are one piece ceiling to floor, nogs are the horizontal bits nailed between that aren't as strongly fixed (usually)

Tim's line "scrotum nuggets" is fucking beautiful

100mm tek screws with mudguard washers would be a start but definitely fix to the floor as well

Remember the safe need to be secured in TWO directions:
- Wall + Wall (in a corner)
- Wall + Floor
- Wall + Ceiling (or underside of stair case)

In all directions you have to find solid fixing.

Back of my two safes could be used as a colander, been moved many times lol

Originally Posted by Jhon

Back of my two safes could be used as a colander, been moved many times lol

AO inspector looking at my safe started thumbing through thte paperwork on the clip board....then looked at the safe and asked me if I was supposed to have endorsement paperwork as there did not seem to be any there......I replied "No endorsements- just a bloody strong safe...". Showed the inspector the "spare" lock as I got them as a pair....the locking mechanisim by itself weighted 5kg.....(Not a typo - Five kilograms per lock mechanisim- from a chemical shed blast door set...designed to withstand explosions...) I had to use extra heavy duty hinges just to support the door weight......

My old man was a locksmith for 30ish years and I picked up a few things about security from him....

Needless to say that it passed muster...

just to add must be hard up against the surfaces if theres a gap between the floor and the base or a gap between the back and the wall it will fail (have just been thru this and had 48 hours to fix it or else!.....

I know its of no help to you, but when I was building at my place I added a few extra nog's and studs in possible locations for my safe, no issues when/if I want to move it now