Advice on Installing a Gun Safe When Wall Nogs Don’t Align with Pre-Drilled Holes

Hi everyone,

I’m in the process of installing a new gun safe at home and could use some advice. I understand that it needs to be securely bolted into the wall nog (the wooden framing inside the wall). However, I’ve run into a bit of a snag: the wall nogs don’t line up with the pre-drilled holes in my safe.

I was thinking about using a wood buffer to bridge the gap and allow me to bolt the safe properly. My concern is that this might leave a noticeable gap between the safe and the wall. Has anyone dealt with a similar situation? Do you have any recommendations or alternative solutions to ensure the safe is securely and neatly installed?

Any tips or insights would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

Anybody you know with a decent battery drill to drill new holes in the safe? That’s all I did

Yep drill new holes [emoji3]
One into the floor is always good too if possible !
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Easier to make the holes in the safe line up with the wall - otherwise you'll need some sort of structure in the wall to bolt too. Which is generally going to require the gib to hatched, the new structure installed and the gib refixed and patched. Path of least resistance here is put the holes in the safe in the right place!

Next point of call is what are you putting it on, carpet? It might pay to look into "carpet saver" feet, I have seen these that are solid plastic but designed to sit on the corners of square heavy furniture and all they do is give a small air gap under the safe to stop it crushing the carpet - this can end up with the carpet going rotten over years as any moisture can't escape.

As mentioned, make holes in the safe for the Nogs where you need them to be. As you are doint htis, put the bolts closer to the edge of the safe as it gives better resistance to getting the safe away from the wall for leverage.


Also if you have space inside the safe, put a piece of 3mm steel or anything similar across between the bolts on the inside (like awasher that goes right across the back ...) . That way if a scumbag tries to pry the safe off they wall, the safe may distort but it will be much much harder for the scrotum nuggets to gain access to the insides as the bolt heads will not pull through the holes.....

Mines bolted to a stud inside a wardrobe Instead of nogs as it's a stronger option and big square washers on coachbolts

And remeber the first rule....to breach a safe, first they must find it......What better way to screw with them than have them waste 30 minutes trying to breach a safe and when they succeed, they find rags and rusty shit like fish hooks or steel scrap ........I know a cuple people who, when they upgraded their safe, they used the old one where it could be 'discovered' then made it as secure as practical then used it to store awkward stuff they didnt want lying around but did not want to throw out either.......

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Originally Posted by Happy Jack

Mines bolted to a stud inside a wardrobe Instead of nogs as it's a stronger option and big square washers on coachbolts

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Why’s it stronger?

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Originally Posted by Kelton

Why’s it stronger?

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Studs are one piece ceiling to floor, nogs are the horizontal bits nailed between that aren't as strongly fixed (usually)

Tim's line "scrotum nuggets" is fucking beautiful

100mm tek screws with mudguard washers would be a start but definitely fix to the floor as well

Remember the safe need to be secured in TWO directions:
- Wall + Wall (in a corner)
- Wall + Floor
- Wall + Ceiling (or underside of stair case)

In all directions you have to find solid fixing.

Back of my two safes could be used as a colander, been moved many times lol

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Originally Posted by Jhon

Back of my two safes could be used as a colander, been moved many times lol

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AO inspector looking at my safe started thumbing through thte paperwork on the clip board....then looked at the safe and asked me if I was supposed to have endorsement paperwork as there did not seem to be any there......I replied "No endorsements- just a bloody strong safe...". Showed the inspector the "spare" lock as I got them as a pair....the locking mechanisim by itself weighted 5kg.....(Not a typo - Five kilograms per lock mechanisim- from a chemical shed blast door set...designed to withstand explosions...) I had to use extra heavy duty hinges just to support the door weight......

My old man was a locksmith for 30ish years and I picked up a few things about security from him....

Needless to say that it passed muster...

just to add must be hard up against the surfaces if theres a gap between the floor and the base or a gap between the back and the wall it will fail (have just been thru this and had 48 hours to fix it or else!.....

I know its of no help to you, but when I was building at my place I added a few extra nog's and studs in possible locations for my safe, no issues when/if I want to move it now

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Originally Posted by makka

I know its of no help to you, but when I was building at my place I added a few extra nog's and studs in possible locations for my safe, no issues when/if I want to move it now

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What a clever idea ��

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Originally Posted by timattalon

As mentioned, make holes in the safe for the Nogs where you need them to be. As you are doint htis, put the bolts closer to the edge of the safe as it gives better resistance to getting the safe away from the wall for leverage.


Also if you have space inside the safe, put a piece of 3mm steel or anything similar across between the bolts on the inside (like awasher that goes right across the back ...) . That way if a scumbag tries to pry the safe off they wall, the safe may distort but it will be much much harder for the scrotum nuggets to gain access to the insides as the bolt heads will not pull through the holes.....

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Scrotum nugget haha. You win the internet for today.

Great advice too.

Mine installed in the new house one wall is a firewall so alas mr copper according to Nz building regs Nothing is to be permanently fixed to it . still both bolted together and secured to house foundatio 6 xhigh tensile anchor bolts through both . My security is multilevel the most deadly of all being the dulcet tones of wife or daughter enquiring as to what flowers the fancy on their coffin and telling we have an undertaker on speed dial.anyone in our street whose up to mischeif inevitably gets a visit by the boys in blue pronto -we dont fuck round and the CCTV surveillance would shock many.

@kotuku:
Wow, your gun safe setup sounds like it’s straight out of an action movie! I’m impressed by the multi-tiered security—especially the part about the “dulcet tones” of the family interrogations. Maybe add a secret trapdoor or a hidden laser grid for extra flair?
And those high tensile anchor bolts through both the firewall and house foundation? Next-level stuff! Maybe throw in a moat with alligators for good measure.
Love the mention of the “boys in blue” and CCTV surveillance—nothing says security like a friendly neighborhood watch team ready to swoop in pronto!
Thanks for the inspo! I might just take some notes and turn my gun safe installation into a full-fledged fortress.
Stay safe and keep those undertakers on speed dial (just in case)!

Mate had an inspector for his FAL renewal checked his 8mm big gunsafe with 6 huge inner dyna bolts to concrete floor. Told it was non complying because not bolted to frame of building. So when I had my Eclass with 5 semi's in it for over 20 years it was not ok? Tell you what. I will undo the dyna bolts .If you and 2 blokes can lift it out of my shed and onto the back of a truck I will give up my FAL. He is still arguing the point. Wonder when common sense will prevail.

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Originally Posted by TeRei

Mate had an inspector for his FAL renewal checked his 8mm big gunsafe with 6 huge inner dyna bolts to concrete floor. Told it was non complying because not bolted to frame of building. So when I had my Eclass with 5 semi's in it for over 20 years it was not ok? Tell you what. I will undo the dyna bolts .If you and 2 blokes can lift it out of my shed and onto the back of a truck I will give up my FAL. He is still arguing the point. Wonder when common sense will prevail.

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My brother (mechanic) was sent on a call out to repair a security wagon / armoured truck. When he arrived the two guards opened the back and gave him access to the engine hatch. Bro asked "You're trusting, letting any old mechanic into the back...is it empty?" Reply was "No, there is a crate with $500k in coin in it...But if you can lift it, you can keep it...... we aren't strong enough to stop you......" My last job we had to move $40k in $2 coins on a regular basis and I can tell you, even on a trolley its heavy to move....

actually because im feeling benevolent this ASap has joined my ignore list

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Originally Posted by kotuku

actually because im feeling benevolent this ASap has joined my ignore list

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Maybe subjective, but I actually had a good laugh when I read his post and it read to me like he was building on the humour in your post rather than having a go at you.

Just one thing further to add to bolting safes into timber framing, at about 37mm into the stud (+/- some 12mm depending on how fussy the electrician was), there may be cables.

Two power outlets fed from the same breaker in the same wall, either side of the safe would be a red flag, as would a light switch nearby. Stud finders usually have an indication that there are cables in the wall, but they aren't a guarantee that there isn't.

Another indication is to climb in the roof and look at the top plate of the wall and see if there are cables going down into the wall in the vicinity of where the safe will go, knowing that they may hook sideways at some point. Same for going underneath the house if you have cables under the floor.

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Originally Posted by longshot

Maybe subjective, but I actually had a good laugh when I read his post and it read to me like he was building on the humour in your post rather than having a go at you.

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icertainly dont share your POVthank you ,so whats done is done!

What I did was positioned the safe where I wanted it in a large cupboard. Marked around it and cut away the gib. Re framed the area of the safe for correct hole spacings, and slotted the safe into the gap in the gib. Then put a coving around the safe to tidy up and also make it harder for someone to get bar between safe and wall.

I dedicated a cupboard to the gun safes.

We got flooded in that huge storm 3 years ago so the gib had to come off anyway.


I ripped off the gib, used a nail gun (nail guns are fun) to add timber to the height of the safes and then replaced the gib with two 20mm sheets of cheap plywood (40mm thick). I used lots of glue between the timber frame, the sheets and the between each sheet.

I painted it all white and it looks mint plus I can screw into that wall anywhere. It also kept the re-licensing guys happy.

For my brother I just slid his safe left and right in his wardrobe until the holes lined up with the one of the studs in the wardrobe. You can also drill new holes in a safe.

I have contemplated a concrete post through other side of wall,two coach bolts through post,wall and into safe. Takes two people to shift a post in open space...once in wardrobe it would be absolute mindfook to try and get it out.hard to cut,hard to smash. Will ponder it some.

The only documents you need to comply with are the Arms Act and Arms Regulations. There is nothing in either that state the safe needs to be bolted to two surface or that there cannot be an air gap behind it. The FSA guidance document is not guidance issued under the Act or the Regulations. In fact, the guidance itself states: "Steel Cabinets, Containers, or Receptacles For steel cabinets, Police recommends the following". i.e., it is only a recommendation. You do not have to comply with the guidance so long as you comply with the Act and Regulations. Happy to be proven wrong though.

Its unfortunate that there is no standardisation in the interpretation of the Law by the people who come and inspect your facility. As soon as their is "opinion" involved you get un-needed confusion.

Some inspection personnel are helpful , others are power trippers. Consistancy across the country would solve a lot of that.

Also - attempting to exceed the minimum standard is always good .

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Originally Posted by Fee Knicks

Its unfortunate that there is no standardisation in the interpretation of the Law by the people who come and inspect your facility. As soon as their is "opinion" involved you get un-needed confusion.

Some inspection personnel are helpful , others are power trippers. Consistancy across the country would solve a lot of that.

Also - attempting to exceed the minimum standard is always good .

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The Police prioritising burglaries and putting offenders in front of Courts that take it seriously would solve it at source.

That said, I welded up a 6mm rifle safe to B cat levels just because it makes it a smidgen harder - or did, before cordless grinders were a thing.

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Originally Posted by kotuku

actually because im feeling benevolent this ASap has joined my ignore list

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@kotuku, check out his location. That speaks volumes........

Hi Asap,

Would you mind sharing the brand of safe you Purchased? I am in the process of buying my very first safe . just looking for Ideas .

Don't we say dwangs anymore?

first time i've never heard of "nogs" before!

As I understand it theye're called Dwangs down south, Nogs is up here.

As I understand it theye're called Dwangs down south, Nogs (Nogins) is up here.

Nogs in the UK too, never heard of dwangs until I moved here

According to Mr Google -
In construction, a dwang (Scotland and New Zealand), nogging piece, nogging, noggin or nog (England and Australia; all derived from brick nog), or blocking (North America), is a horizontal bracing piece used between wall studs to give rigidity to the wall frames of a building.

When I was a kid they were dwangs. Nogs seem to have emerged. Certainly when I built my first house in the late 70's they were dwangs and with my old builder doing work on my house now they are dwangs.
Have we yet again been Americanised?