Thread: Fixing basic gun racks to studs

I suspect basic $70 Gun City gun racks are frowned upon by many, but I'll be moving home soon and am applying for a firearms licence. I'll need to satisfy the secure storage aspect despite having no intention of owning/storing a weapon at this house. As I'm getting the licence ultimately for pistol shooting, I'll get a large 6mm safe that'll cover both pistols and shotguns after I'm in the new house. Can't buy that safe now as there's nowhere sensible to put it in this house.

The FSA page on racks says this:

or the bolts / screws should be of a type that prevents removal when fitted, e.g. by using coach screws or welding the bolt or screw to prevent removal.

https://www.firearmssafetyauthority....nce.pdf#page=6

I suspect this isn't entirely accurate (although would love to be wrong), in that if I was to use coach screws they could presumably be easily removed from that Gun City rack. Hence why Gun City says:

This means using screws with security heads or grinding them so that they can’t be unscrewed.

https://www.guncity.com/outdoor-outf...un-rack-389806

I'll want to remove the rack when we sell. Not to keep it, but just to leave the place tidy. So no grinding the bolt heads. Happy to buy security screws, but I'm having trouble finding m6/14G ones.

Given all this, is it going to be possible for me to pass inspection with one of these racks?

I'm selling 6- gun racks with mounting bolts that that can't be tampered with. They've passed 2 police inspections. They are heavy, not sure what a courier would charge, but I'm selling them for $50.

Most racks are designed so that the firearm covers the bolt head & stops any access. What Ranger 888 has would do the trick nicely.

I have a simple rack in the caravan bolted to the chassis using snap off nuts which leave behind a round tapered nut when the hex part breaks off. I tried gripping them with pliers etc and they just slip off. Passed inspection too.

Thanks guys.

@ Ranger. Quite a collection! That looks great, but sadly I just don't have the space for a proper solution in this house.

@ HJ. So far I've only really identified wall studs as suitable mounting locations, so I don't think bolts will work for me. Never heard of snap off heads though, so I'll take a look.

@ NGNL. Most well-designed racks . The GC one is entry-level security. Even a steel cable in an attic might be better, although I don't have an attic.

Hi Bromley86

As you're not planning to be there long enough to use it the 1 you posted should be ok. use heavy 10-12Ga screws and drill out the drive slots once installed. To remove just unlock and drill out the heads completely, remove the rack and use vise grips to undo the screws.

Alternately buy a small safe and bolt it into the same stud & 2 screws into the floor. Heads are inside the safe and easily removed later. Safe is useful as low security storage for other items later.

Most places only go up to around 10G (4.8mm) to 12G (5.5mm) in security screws. I found one 14G (6.3mm): it doesn't specify the length, but from the product number I'd guess it's only 50mm.
https://www.anzor.co.nz/security-scr...e-self-tappers

They have those shear nuts Happy Jack mentioned, in case that's of use to anyone:
https://www.anzor.co.nz/security-scr...s-vandal-proof

These guys carry a wide range. Most tap out at 70mm on M6, but they say they can special order larger. Their Snake Eyes imperial has a 3" 1/4-20. Not sure if the police would be happy with machine screws in wood though. There are a bunch of masonry screws that are 1/4 and >3". Guess that might work?
https://www.bringans.net.nz/security.html

EDIT: Thanks NGNL. I'm leaning towards getting a cheap safe and using the existing anchors in concrete that the last chap left here. By the time I've bought one-off security screws from the States, it'll probably come out the same.

14g tek screws or purlin screws 100mm long

Burr them out completely and keep battery powered driver nearby for inspection to demonstrate that they are rounded off

Come removal time, cut head off with angle grinder fine blade, remove rack

Then either cut head off slightly below plaster and replaster patch over or vice grip the stub and wind it out

Cheap and easy

read this thread.
I just used type 17 14GaX75mm screws inside my safe but no one has ever looked inside.
https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....-walls-104379/

edit What 308 said

On the recommendation of the inspector for the same rack at my place I just applied super glue to the heads of screws and it passed muster. Should make it easy enough to drill the heads out to remove it once I upgrade to a decent safe.

Drill more holes in the base and use more screws

I brought the gun city rack and it included the security bolts needed. I didn't look too closely, but, I think they might be security torx heads.

They really should include the fact that the security bolts were included as I spent some time trying to hunt down suitable security bolts before buying them.

Note - a Std Beretta shotgun would not fit in the rack as the underbarrel magazine meant it was too large to fit between the trigger rod and hoop on the rack. I cut the rack in half and added some additional security screws to affix it to the wall.