lyman slugs load development

hey team,

I was wanting to spend some down time and do some research on some reloading i wanted to do for my Lyman mold

https://www.ballisticproducts.com/Ly...tinfo/1244112/

I found the following link below rather interesting, i had used all my claybuster wads (CB114-12) on my slugs and AA12F114 on 00 Buck, in fact i had interchanged them over with very acceptable results

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=49t8...&index=11&t=0s

i went away and tried another WAA12 wad (red) and to my concern couldn't push the wad with seated projectile through the barrel, concerning as i had previously used this wad based on information taken from load data that indicated it was ok.......

so i found a bag of (massive bag) of WAA12 NZ (white or opaque), no, they too wouldn't fit, so i cut the petals half way down, and they happily slid down the barrel.

it got me to thinking and maybe i am over complicating it, but hey its called reloading and part of that exercise is the odd habit hole, i have some felt fillers, would i benefit in buffering or cushioning between the slug and wad, ive noticed on my wads the cup that the slug sits on greatly deform almost flowing into the cavity of the mold.

Im also thinking of a cushioning filler in my OO buckshot loads, but thats a story for another day!

has anyone else tinkered around with the load?

even found an old bag of reloader magnum pattern wads that seem to be ok.....to be tested!

Attachment 124377Attachment 124378Attachment 124379

now to add some more confusion in the large box of wads are two bags, one on the left with a bag claiming AA12 NZ, the other i naturally assumed the same till i looked inside the wads, one bag contains markings in the cup of A A A W and in the centre an H (from the AA12 NZ) they don't feed through the barrel , the other has "15" in the base inside the cup? and thee do feed nicely? both appear identical in construction?

as indicated in the pics below, would be nice to use them as i will never need to buy any ever again!!!!

also the pic of the target is the 50 meter target two shots using two differing short barrelled shotguns no rifling off a rest same load, slug 525

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I haven't seen those magnum wads since the 80s. I've got that mold and they cast at .672 compared to a winchester rifled slug which mikes at .712 and is bare in the case just two fibre and a card behind it.
Wad petals are about .025 and the base of the cup in many isn't flat but tapers out onto the base so you can't sit the things flush in those.
I've experimented with wads and found cutting the petals off completely and sitting the slug on top made bugger all difference to accuracy with only a fore bead. You do need to roll crimp them though.
I'm keen to load some bare bum on the powder maybe paper patched to bore size, as I have an idea for a vapour trail to see where they go.
12 gauge is excellent for experimentation compared to prissy small cases as even big clumsy hands can manipulate it easily.

@Marty Henry yes another benefit is now that glasses for reading are required it makes for easier reloading that those finicky rounds!

I am about to further develop the roll crimp, but i see that again im going to have to tinker with the powder charge, currently using AP70N, but im finding my results a little hit and miss with the roll crimp at the moment.

not sure if you have seen the you tube clip but the gentleman who does them has even tried load development with the projectiles seated backwards......interesting?

ive not actually micrometered my slugs would be interested in what they are casting at?

agree you shouldnt need petals on the wad....its there to seal the powder pressure.

Cool I’ll do a load or two without petals, the next trick is getting the roll crimp going again, like I said, a bit hit and a whole lot of miss!

Silly thought how hard would it be to get a rifled barrel for a Winchester defender?

I went down that thought path years back...rifled .12ga is just that...a .12ga rifle,big slow slug with big hole and little shock power....AND its plurry hopeless with birdshot or buckshot....doughnut patterns you could stand in middle of at 40 yards.
great in Tokoroa pine forests where a shotgun is all thats allowed,I started out pighunting with .12ga because of that mindset being what Id learnt...soon realised a rifle had much more to offer....slugs and buckshot go in gun belt along with the birdshot for a just in case moment....dont hunt with shotgun for bigger game as such anymore.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Micky Duck

I went down that thought path years back...rifled .12ga is just that...a .12ga rifle,big slow slug with big hole and little shock power....AND its plurry hopeless with birdshot or buckshot....doughnut patterns you could stand in middle of at 40 yards.
great in Tokoroa pine forests where a shotgun is all thats allowed,I started out pighunting with .12ga because of that mindset being what Id learnt...soon realised a rifle had much more to offer....slugs and buckshot go in gun belt along with the birdshot for a just in case moment....dont hunt with shotgun for bigger game as such anymore.

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cheers for the comments around the doughnut pattern, this is more of a learning project, was even going to gently tumble my cast 00 buckshot to see if i couldn't smooth out where the sprue plate cuts the lead, im also going to try another powder, ive been using AP70N, mainly because it gives me one less powder to buy as im using it in one other calibre but thinking to cross that cals over to tight group.

I’ve got a cape/combination gun in .58. Twist rifling in one barrel for projectiles, straight rifling in the other for shot? Holds the package together down the barrel.

@Tertle....I asume you wanting to get your 00 buck to pattern tighter???? piece of cake to do that one bud....go to gunworks and get some steel shot wads that have unslitted cups.....then experiment with greater or lesser amount of slits in cup till you achieve what you desire....heck Ive contemplated using ASteel powder and scooting the suckers out at 1600fps for grins and giggles. I dont use buckshot or solids often at all,so havent bothered working up a load. for the wee ozzie hoppers find some #7 buckshot...its about .22 calibre so heaps more in your pattern.........then try a decent load of #2s or #BBs and fifty quid to a knob of goat shit you will not bother with buck shot again. if I was only allowed one shotgun load period...it would be a 36grn hot load of #2 shot....lead or steel...both kill absolutely gobsmackingly efficently.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Micky Duck

@Tertle....I asume you wanting to get your 00 buck to pattern tighter???? piece of cake to do that one bud....go to gunworks and get some steel shot wads that have unslitted cups.....then experiment with greater or lesser amount of slits in cup till you achieve what you desire....heck Ive contemplated using ASteel powder and scooting the suckers out at 1600fps for grins and giggles. I dont use buckshot or solids often at all,so havent bothered working up a load. for the wee ozzie hoppers find some #7 buckshot...its about .22 calibre so heaps more in your pattern.........then try a decent load of #2s or #BBs and fifty quid to a knob of goat shit you will not bother with buck shot again. if I was only allowed one shotgun load period...it would be a 36grn hot load of #2 shot....lead or steel...both kill absolutely gobsmackingly efficently.

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Well guess I can get some when I drop of the defender to get a little neutered, I hadn’t even thought of using a steel shot wad! Now that’s why I love this place! NOW I am going to start a post about a black powder project, I have a funny feeling you and @Marty Henry will be very helpful buggers!

now you REALLY have my interest....love the smell of the dirty black stuff.
if you dont have any luck finding some wads flick me a PM and will post some to you.