Thread: Gun Dog clubs

t Hubert’s day is the beginning of the hunting season in many parts of Europe. In many places it is celebrated with a stag hunt – which seems an awfully odd way to celebrate the life of a man who gave up hunting for religious reasons. Surely he would be a more appropriate patron saint of vegetarianism, or the increasingly vocal “ethical eaters” such as the folk who have managed to get foie gras banned in Chicago?

The traditional St Hubert’s day hunt begins with the blessing of a special bread which is then shared out amongst the hunting dogs in the belief that it will protect from rabies. Other than the bread, all dishes “à la St Hubert” are based on some sort of game: you can chose from consommé, purée of pheasant (or any game), tournedos of venison, petites bouchées (“vol au vents”), timbales, and even an omelette.

The perfect accompaniment to one of those rich game dishes would be a good Cabernet Sauvignon from the Yarra Valley (Victoria, Australia) vineyard of the same name. The winery was established in 1862 by Hubert De Castella (whose Saints' Day would have been today), and in 1880 St Hubert wine won the award given by Emperor Wilhelm I of Germany's award for the most successful exhibitor at the Melbourne International Exhibition.