Thread: The Setter Breed

Thought I would start a photo thread on the English Setter for those interested in them .Make it a place to meet some people that can help you have one if interested in the future .

Nice dog.

That up at woodhill?

I want to see another English Setter...

Originally Posted by phillipgr

That up at woodhill?

bike park area

Originally Posted by EeeBees

I want to see another English Setter...

you mean other than mine?

Heres one... you might like this Elb
Fine art print of an English Setter - early image | Trade Me

feilte my new bitch from Ireland

Originally Posted by moonhunt

Heres one... you might like this Elb
Fine art print of an English Setter - early image | Trade Me

original type of early Setter

Sneaky Setter SETTER INGLES ROMA.wmv - YouTube

Origins
The English Setter is one of the oldest breeds of gundog, with a history that traces back to the 14th century. It was developed over hundreds of years from the spaniel and was originally called a Setting Spaniel, used for finding and setting birds. They would be worked on moorland, ranging out freely in front of the hunter, quartering the ground and looking for birds. When located, they would crouch (or set) and remain motionless facing the birds, often lifting a paw to indicate the position of the quarry. The hunters would then approach and lay nets so that on a given command, the dogs would rise and drive the birds into the nets. Use of the net continued until the late 18th century, but as use of the gun replaced the net, the term Setting Spaniel was replaced by that of Setter.

The original Setters were owned by noble families who kept them for their working abilities. There is no evidence of where these dogs originated, but it is quite likely that some were brought back from the Continent (Europe/Asia) following wars during those times. The Setters did not separate into the breeds we know today until the 19th century, although there were various recognised strains of Setter, named after the aristocratic families who kept them.

Laverack Setters
The modern English Setter owes its appearance to Mr Edward Laverack (1800-1877) who developed his own strain of the breed by careful inbreeding and selective line-breeding during the 19th century. The modern show-type of English Setter is frequently referred to as the Laverack-type. He was the author of the book entitled The Setter, published in 1872. This was considered to be the definitive book on the breed and was the basis for the creation of the English Setter Standard.

Llewellin
Setters Mr Richard Purcell Llewellin (1840-1925), based his strain upon Laverack's and concentrated on developing his ideal of the working setter by breeding a number of other strains with his own. The modern-day working setter is frequently referred to as the Llewellin-type

Breed Standard
Published by the Kennel Club August 1986 (as amended - January 2009)
A Breed Standard is the guideline which describes the ideal characteristics, temperament and appearance of a breed and ensures that the breed is fit for function. Absolute soundness is essential. Breeders and judges should at all times be careful to avoid obvious conditions or exaggerations which would be detrimental in any way to health, welfare or soundness of this breed. From time to time certain conditions or exaggerations may be considered to have potential to affect dogs in some breed adversely, and judges and breeders are requested to refer to the Kennel Club web site for details of any such current issues. If a feature or quality is desirable it should only be present in the right measure.

General Appearance: Of medium height, clean in outline, elegant in appearance and movement. The working English Setter may be proportionally lighter in build.
Characteristics: Very active with a keen game sense.
Temperament: Intensely friendly and good natured.
Head and Skull: Head carried high, long and reasonably lean, with well defined stop. Skull oval from ear to ear, showing plenty of brain room, a well defined occipital protuberance. Muzzle moderately deep and fairly square, from stop to point of nose should equal length of skull from occiput to eyes, nostrils wide and jaws of nearly equal length, flews not too pendulous; colour of nose black or liver, according to colour of coat.
Eyes: Bright, mild and expressive. Colour ranging between hazel and dark brown, the darker the better. In liver beltons only, a lighter eye acceptable. Eyes oval and not protruding.
Ears: Moderate length, set on low, and hanging in neat folds close to cheek, tip velvety, upper part clothed in fine silky hair.
Mouth: Jaws strong, with a perfect, regular and complete scissor bite, i.e. upper teeth closely overlapping lower teeth and set square to the jaws. Full dentition desirable.
Neck: Rather long, muscular and lean, slightly arched at crest, and clean-cut where it joins head, towards shoulder larger and very muscular, never throaty nor pendulous below throat, but elegant in appearance.
Forequarters: Shoulders well set back or oblique, chest deep in brisket, very good depth and width between shoulder blades, forearms straight and very muscular with rounded bone, elbows well let down close to body, pasterns short, strong, round and straight.
Body: Moderate length, back short and level with good round widely sprung ribs and deep in back ribs, i.e. well ribbed up.
Hindquarters: Loins wide, slightly arched, strong and muscular, legs well muscled including second thigh, stifles well bent and thighs long from hip to hock, hock inclining neither in nor out and well let down.
Feet: Well padded, tight, with close well arched toes protected by hair between them.
Tail: Set almost in line with back, medium length, not reaching below hock, neither curly nor ropy, slightly curved or scimitar-shaped but with no tendency to turn upwards: flag or feathers hanging in long pendant flakes. Feather commencing slightly below the root, and increasing in length towards middle, then gradually tapering towards end, hair long, bright, soft and silky, wavy but not curly. Lively and slashing in movement and carried in a plane not higher than level of back.
Gait/Movement: Free and graceful action, suggesting speed and endurance. Free movement of the hock showing powerful drive from hindquarters. Viewed from rear, hip, stifle and hock joints in line. Head naturally high.
Coat: From back of head in line with ears slightly wavy, not curly, long and silky as is coat generally, breeches and forelegs nearly down to feet well feathered.
Colour: Black and white (blue belton), orange and white (orange belton), lemon and white (lemon belton), liver and white (liver belton) or tricolour, that is blue belton and tan or liver belton and tan, those without heavy patches of colour on body but flecked (belton) all over preferred.
Size: Height: dogs: 65-69 cms (251/2-27 ins); bitches: 61-65 cms (24-251/2 ins).
Faults: Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog and on the dog's ability to perform its traditional work.
Note: Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.

Ive decided to start cooking for my Setter again. Chicken scraps from the mad butcher $3 1kg-1 head broccoli,1 bunch parsley,bunch of water cress ,23 carrots-cook for 1/2hour let cool and mix in raw mince -cheaper fattier mince and portion and freeze.
I was just reading the ingredients in another excellent dry food-good ideas when making food
INGREDIENTS
Deboned chicken, chicken meal, green peas, turkey meal, chicken liver oil, field beans, red lentils,
whole potato, deboned turkey, whole egg, deboned walleye, sun-cured alfalfa, pea fiber, chicken
liver, herring oil, whole apples, whole pears, sweet potato, pumpkin, butternut squash, parsnips,
carrots, spinach greens, cranberries, blueberries, kelp, chicory root, juniper berries, angelica root,
marigold flowers, sweet fennel, peppermint leaf, lavender, rosemary.
VITAMINS, MINERALS, SUPPLEMENTS
Vitamin A supplement, vitamin D3 supplement, vitamin E supplement, niacin, riboflavin, folic acid, biotin,
vitamin B12 supplement, zinc proteinate, iron proteinate, manganese proteinate, copper proteinate,
selenium yeast, dried Enterococcus faecium fermentation

Dont forget a can of sardines a week, a teaspoon kelp powder three times a week, cottage cheese.

Juniper berries...um, I wouldnt...unless I was roasting the dog!!!!

i usually give him mackerel and the kelp sounds a perfect idea.My dog can be a real fussy eater but just woofed down the above food as though he had competition--great