Sad times thenQuote:
Originally Posted by Tahr
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Sad times thenQuote:
Originally Posted by Tahr
Wash your mouth out :)Quote:
Originally Posted by mimms2
Poor old girl. Maybe slow down a bit or make your trips a bit shorter if you can. I know the feeling, I can still work anyone at work under the table, but takes me days to recover now.
As long as she is still enjoying herself that's the main thing. Not good when you see their mind is willing but the body can't keep up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tahr
time to get her on the green lip mussel pills bruce
Don't worry about her - what should I be taking? :)Quote:
Originally Posted by kawhia
Cannabis @Tahr. Strictly medicinal of course.
:P
A bit sad perhaps, but also pretty satisfying to see a dog live a happy and successful life.Quote:
Originally Posted by Russian 22.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
you can take them as wellQuote:
Originally Posted by Tahr
@kawhia This for Tilly?Quote:
Originally Posted by kawhia
https://www.petconnect.nz/products/p...CABEgLCRPD_BwE
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tahr
Vet suggested we try this on our 11.5 year old Lab bitch....and has actually helped her a lot......
https://myvet.co.nz/food/dog/hills-v...canine-jd.html
yes thats good for a start, or go to a health shop and get the human version, its cheaperQuote:
Originally Posted by Tahr
https://www.fourflax.co.nz/shop/Shop...one-joint.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by Maxx
this stuff is amazing, can make the coat a little oily though
Bruce...it will be a sad sad day when she is no longer able to walk the hills with you. the little walks will still be there for her... I took my old blind cocker for a paddle the other day.he happy as pig in pooh sitting in kayak getting ducks n geese chucked in on top of him....didnt need to do a thing all arvo and came home happy as.
where there is a will there is a way.
I use a similar product for her brother Bru, called CortaFlex HA. Mix a scoop with some water, milk or yogurt and he gets stuck into it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tahr
Have used it with all my dogs in their later years.
Attachment 146649 Attachment 146650
More of Finn my lab gsp x.
Two years old , three in November and sitting at 30 deer and approx 350 odd goats. Not a fan of photos though, usually wants to be looking for the next thing for me to shoot
lol looks like a high class dog with his nose in the air :)
He doesn't look overly impressed being made to sit while you take his picture.
Nice classic looking rifle you've got there
We are considering getting ourselves a dog. We are thinking about a German or English pointer. Would appreciate any advice any input or advice about these breeds. We do not live on a rural property and I am a little concerned about the pooch not getting enough exercise but there's plenty of parks close by and we do spend as much time as possible out bush. Also not to up on how to train one of these for hunting. It would not be left home alone as the wife could take it with her during week days which leads to my next question... how are they with other dogs?
Help....
I have no experience with Pointers but other high energy dogs.
Dogs like people are on a spectrum even within the breed. So liking other dogs and energy requirements will vary but most likely be high energy. Especially as a puppy/ adolescent
In saying that dogs can adjust to a particular lifestyle within reason. Mine went through a phase of destroying blankets and a few other items as I slacked on the training and exercise when she was just over a year. Upped the training and involvement and it went away.
My current dogs get ~1 hour exercise most days in the week and a good outing on the weekends. If not both days. She mostly just lays around inside during the day but is very keen to head out as soon as I get home.
Not only do they get a good walk they get mental stimulation. That's just as good if not better to tire them out. Tracking training. Teaching new tricks. Getting them thinking.
Hunting wise gun training is the most important to get right. Scared of a gunshot or even the sight of a gun is no good. Then teaching what behaviours you want during hunts. How far in front. To not break at the shot etc.
The deer dog blueprint is a fantastic video resource that I wished I had of used to train mine with. She's my first hunting dog. My only expectation to start with was to track / find downed game. No indication. She doesn't point but I can tell from her body language when she's onto something. So the intention was more post shot. But once she figured out the game I can tell from her behaviour when we are into an animal.
so far i have managed to recover a gun shy dog. Stop her from breaking after the shot. Now I'm working on her chasing game. She used to lock solid and not chase. But I undid it one day to get her to drive off a bunch of goats in the way. Alot easier to get it right at the start than to fix bad behaviours. But I'm learning far more fixing my mistakes that I can carry on to the next dog.
As long as you can put in time almost every day for exercise and training and they arnt just locked up all the time you should be alright. But expect 10mins a day and it to be locked up the rest of the time you will have a bad time. Put in alot of effort up front with training when a puppy and adolescent then you will have to do very little as it's older
@Ftx325Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftx325
English pointers are not really that common here in Nelson....................but I have 3 and one of my good friends have 2. So if you want to meet some let me know :D Our section in Richmond could best be described as "little"
Real pointers have tails :D
Thinking pointer solely for the hunting aspect. Would like a dog that can help earn it's keep and be a help in the bush...not a hinderence. Don't have much experience with hunting dogs but a pointer seems the obvious choice for what we would likely to do with it as well as being a loving and loved family pet.
Hi @mikeeQuote:
Originally Posted by mikee
That would be great if possible. We bumped into a lady at the hacket track last weekend on our way to spend the day bushbashing out the back of the hut for pigs. She was running with her german pointer pup and we stopped her and had a chat. Frankly she's lucky to still have the pup as I thought the missus was gunna try stealing it at gunpoint for a minute there. Lol. She's now firmly enamored with the breed. Going by the joyous squealing from her and my daughter after mentioning your offer I think they might be keen to meet you and your dogs if that is possible.... though l' m not so sure if it's a good idea as I will no doubt never hear the end of it and will be constantly harassed about how wonderful they are until we finally get one...ha ha
What sort of hunting do you do? That should help inform your decisionQuote:
Originally Posted by Ftx325
Gsp are a versatile dog, can use them on a lot of game but if I only hunted deer I wouldn't get a gsp, don't know about English pointers but probably similar vein
I love my gsps as I hunt them on deer, ducks and pheasants, but if you only hunt one of those there are other breeds that may be better suited
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We hope to use it for deer,goats, pigs as a pointer/finder. So when I say pigs I don't want a pig dog... I am not looking for a dog to find and hold an animal... just point us in the right direction. Kids have been pressuring me to try duck hunting so a dog we could use for retrieval would be a good thing. Not knowing alot about different breeds and training is the reason I am asking you lot as I want to hear from the experts and owners of different breeds before we commit to point me in the right direction or tell me I'm dreaming and no such dog exists. I have minimal knowledge when it comes to dogs....Quote:
Originally Posted by hillclima
hope I dont get lynched for this...but skin thick enough to take it if thats the case.
your average Labrador will do that and be more than happy to lie in front of fire and leak hair all over house for the rest of the time.
a crossbred mongrel will do it too.
whatever you get,you will have it for 12-14years . choose wisely.... I had working dogs as young fella. as married man with young family I got first dedicated hunting dog..Buttons was gsp/huntaway so had guts in spades and was hard as nails..she did all my duck retrieving and chased many wallabies out for me to shoot.if my training had been better she wouldve been better all around.
next was Willie....picture kids book Clifford but paint him black...45kgs of goofball golden retriever huntaway...took 3 year to grow up and start retrieving but was machine after that. we gave him away when shifting house as finding rental with 2 dogs was hard work...hunting wallaby when 1080 had been dropped isnt dog friendly so he was redundant.
Nugget was next..cocker spaniel from breeder....not a good one it turns out. he has ton of guts,nose to die for and doesnt give in..but he is blind now at 12yr old and has been for 2 years...piss poor genetics mean too much loose skin on head and no tears.
then we got Meg...1/2 gsp 1/4 lab 1/4 beardie...mum is hard out beardie/gsp pig dog..... she retrieves all my waterfowl and indicates deer n pigs for me to shoot...and finds ones I have when I believe her........she will break my heart when she goes to big duckpond in sky.
I prefer mongrels/xbred dogs for hybrid vigour....hopefully less chance of bad genes...sometimes it works sometimes not so much.
if you decide to go with a particular breed PLEASE get advice on good reputable breeders BEFORE letting wife n kids see puppies..... Nugget taught me that lesson and its been expensive one.
hope my long winded ramble helps.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftx325
I should of asked about your experience with dogs
To add into my first reply. The dog is probably going to spend 80-95% of its time at home and the rest hunting. Lots of pointers make good pets but are more hands on when not hunting.
While pointers are hunting dogs and bread for it, lots of other dogs will work just as well AND be half as intense at home.
A more mild dog will probably be easier at home and to train general behaviors etc. And will require a little more input on you for hunting. They will indicate game for you just probably not with the iconic "point". Mine stops and raises her nose or her body stiffens up, ears point straight up and she wants to head in that direction. All dogs have amazing noses and once they realize the game they will have no problem tracking / finding game for you.
If the dog is a handful at home and overexcited it will also be a handful and hindrance in the bush as it will be the one in control not you. Too exited to listen.
AND no matter what dog you get, it will have problems. Some behavior or issue that you would want fixed. Getting a pointer wont automatically mean its an amazing hunting dog, getting a lab wont make it an amazing family dog either.
Some of its easy some of it will take time. My issues are the chasing, pulling on the lead when walking and not getting along well with other dogs. Chasing im working on, the walking i dont really care about as its off leash walks or some other form of exercise. And not liking other dogs is part of her personality, so im not too fussed on that one either.
Cant go past a good lab from working lines (not some average bread pet dog) even retrievers and foxys.
https://www.youtube.com/user/TheBobthebuildernz/videos The armed tramper has a lot of success from his lab.
The owner of deer dog blue print uses a hunter way or heading dog from memory.
As mighty duck says avoid getting back yard breed dogs, while people find another good hunting dog to put over theirs. Often the price is not far behind going from a reputable breeders. Breeders will have health tested the parents and should of hip scored them, usually come with health guarantees too, so will either pay to fix the problem or refund your dog. No good saving 1000 bucks on pup only to find out at 2 or 4 years old its got bad hips or other health problems. Its already part of the family and you have put in alot of time and money into it.
My preference is for smaller / medium dogs. Its easier to lift over fences, smaller so easier to fit in places and not take up as much room in the tent etc. Also i have a bitsa as the same reason, it was a rescue and in the hope would be lower chances of health problems.
+1 on this ..... i editted out the rest cos im certainly no expert on dog behaviour , pointers and such .Quote:
Originally Posted by Nugget connaisseur
i have a whippet/terrier cross (probably staffy) weighing in at 17 or 18 kilos and the size of a small lab
she was a rescue dog and had some issues couldnt train her the same as i did the lab before her shes not food driven but play/positive attention driven but at the same time when shes home shes a couch potato , very low maintenance . i can lift her up when we are climbing out of guts or down into them she fits in my sleeping bag and doesnt take up much room in the vehicle.took about 3 years to get her where i wanted as a hunting dog and its taken another 2 to get her first deer (would have been sooner but for my slow reflexes and not reading her properly at the time)but hey cant rush these things.....bit like mainland cheese apparently
+1 to spectrum comment. Lesson one from the Blueprint if you haven't seen it: Choose the quiet or reserved pup in the litter.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nugget connaisseur
My boy is a GSP/Border Collie cross. Happy to lie about all day, doesn't "need" to be walked, does like to play fetch but needs a nap after 5 minutes. Laziest pet I know, on the flip side he will hunt all day. The only time he gets antsy is when I forget to let him in his kennel past his bed time.
Its lower down the priority list. I have a prong collar. 10x better than a Choker chain.Quote:
Originally Posted by mimms2
Working on impulse control and excitement has been the bigger issue to stop breaking at the shot.
Its not pull me over its just requires active management rather than a natural walk around the block with no corrections. Not a big deal. But I will work on it eventually.
I dislike the name choker chain...but both my dogs wear theirs all the time...
no rotton smelly hair underneath as they breath (collar AND dog)...council tag goes in the end the clip goes onto.
re walking in front/pulling on lead
a quick firm jerk on lead...is all thats needed,most of the time....its a "oih Im the plurry boss,get ya hairy bum back here" sort of thing
switching directions is pretty good too,that one works even better for keeping at heel.
collar comes off and stays in wagon or at home when we go hunting.
mimms2 stop it..you are making sense and Im agreeing with you....
They stopped calling them choker chains a while ago. Check chains is the going term for the same thing these days.
You should only need to use one a few times while giving the dog the word you want to use for stop pulling ( "heal" etc...). You may sometimes need to move to a long rope after it learns to stop pulling on command, since the dog will (at first), think it can range further away from you once it gets out of lead range. So a few more times on a long rope with the check chain to re-enforce the heal or come here command and you shouldn't need to use one again.
I never run collars on my dogs but have a horse lead I feed back through the clip to make a loop if I have to go through an on leash or dangerous to the dog zone ( like close to a road etc..).
Sorry badly worded.Quote:
Originally Posted by mimms2
I prefer a prong collar minor pressure corrections can be used, not the "check" correction. 10x easier to be consistent with and i have found dogs react to it better. I don't walk her with the prong collar, walks are down time and i rarely walk her on a leash. So haven't bothered to work on it yet.
"active management" is verbal, gentle leash corrections. Unlike my other dog she wont stay a heal for extended periods of time....she needs reminders and if left to her own devices eventually will want to go sniff and always reach the end of the lead and pull.
100% agree my dogs flaws are my failings as a trainer. Most are minor but the ones that bother me i work on them. Bad teaching, biggest thing i got wrong was INCONSISTENT RULES. Pretty hard for a dog is to figure out what you want when the rules are always changing.
She learns very fast when the rules don't change. Behaviors i expect the rules don't change.
I have already come a long way at the breaking of the shot. Tying her up so she cant interact with the game after breaking is what is working for her. I just need to get out more to proof it. Adding noise anticipation in is a good idea that i can do without being in the bush.
I have been doing impulse control, while they don't generalize very well its helped with her attention. Not running or anticipating at the throw of a ball, Not taking food even if i hand it right in front of her. I can leave chicken in the car for 20mins and come back and it still be there.
People were often surprised to hear I could leave my dinner on the chair while I went out of the room to get something, and none of my dogs would eat it. I also fed my dogs off my plate so they knew that's where the yummies came from. It was no problem for my Rotties which I raised from pups, but Rocky the huntaway which I got at 2, took a bit of teaching before I could leave yum yums around without him gobbling it.
Attachment 147880
Thor (black gwp) and Burl, passed away Nov 2019.
Attachment 148818
Two 6 month pups I breed. Cattle cross.
Still learning but hope to catch pigs and aid in deer hunting.
Attachment 150993
Ninth birthday today. These two have been dishing out the love to Mum and Dad during our unfortunate spell on the sidelines. Gotta love the Nanny Dog.
The new puppy learning what to do at teatime from the big dogs, and guess which one is the thousand miles an hr trouble making stirrer the rest of the time......
Attachment 151002
Sounds just like our new girl.
2 year old Bichon with zero training.
Opinion on everything, whether she’s asked or not.
Starting to come when called, I used to have to send my shepherd out to herd her back to me.
After being a duck dog for the past 8 years, finally got around to getting Rocco out and onto a deer.
Attachment 151352
Our latest edition Zoe. She is coming along nicely and has firmly cemented her place in the pack.
Attachment 151353
Go Rocco the deer dog :)
Zoe is 1 cute soggy doggie :)
