Thread: Training techniques

so.....dog chasing rabbit across field toward road with car bearing down...."SIT" you scream dog plants arse then gets up and carries on. as sit doesn't mean to STAY sitting until told otherwise.
if you tell MY dog to sit...I will move it on......straight away and explain why.
telling someone elses dog that's being a pain to F#%K OFF is fine in fact its expected
well that's what works for mine anyway...if they annoying you feel free to tell them to F off

I don't usually wade into the training method threads as one, nobody really wants to know when they ask questions, most people have a preconceived idea of how it should be, and two, I don't care enough to comment. My dogs work for me and with me, at a good level, that's all that matters.

But I will make one observation about this thread. Nobody here has asked what you expect this dog to do when finished. What is the goal? If you don't have an idea of the outcome how can you possibly go about reaching that outcome?

If it is to be a pet as you say, and not a hunting dog which, unlike pets, have to operate in while in high drive, and high distraction environments then clicker training may be fine - I have no experience with clickers. However, if it is to be a hunting dog, throw the clicker away. Basic (and essential) obedience like sits and recalls can be taught by more conventional methods. Sits at distance are built up to by gradually increasing the distance of the sit each time while maintaining the ability to enforce it in the learning stages. Recalls personally I use a whistle as my dogs often operate well beyond voice range. with a whistle its best taught early, a few peeps on the whistle as a pup, whilst crouching down or laying down and id be surprised if that pup didn't bowl you over to try and lick your face.