Thread: Cam Timing

Hi there MarkN,

Good to see a thread like this, but a word of advice, get some help before messing with cams too much. A good draw board is your most powerful tuning tool so good that you already have one.

My experience comes from target shooting, not hunting, but the same principles apply.

NZ has/had a couple of really good compound archers (Shaun Teasdale, Steve Clifton, Linda Lainchbury etc.) so you should have a couple of clubs that have knowledgeable people, worth joining.

Important to know what type of cam system you have, Single cam (old Matthews) Cam+ 1/2 (older Hoyt), Hybrid (older PSE) or Binary (most modern hunting bows).

Judging by the pictures it looks like a Binary cam bow, where both cams are slaved together and draw length is adjusted by moving the modules/stops on the cam.

Unlike the older cam types which offered great adjustable feel through timing but ultimately slower speeds, the binary cams are most efficient when timed according to manufacturer's recommendations.

Check online for a user manual and look up cam timing and tune charts. These are crucial as they have the bow specs as they left the factory (or should have). Taking the bow far out of spec usually ruins performance.

Be very careful with adjusting cam lean. Some systems are 'adjustable' but this also means you can inadvertently take them past the limit. Look up 'compound bow derail' if you have not already.

Nock travel is an often debated subject which is worth discussing but not worth trying to adjust, at least not now.

I would not worry too much about the equipment for now. Get it 'shootable' then work on your technique. As that improves then you can adjust the equipment to suit.

Archery is about consistency, and keeping your form/technique and equipment consistent with each other is part of the puzzle.

Best of luck.