Greetings Muka88,
Thanks for your post. Your mention of pointy ones reminded me of something that the US gun writer John Barsness had to say. When John and his dearly beloved got together Eileen was not a hunter. Pretty soon Eileen noticed how much fun John was having and wanted piece of it. John devised two simple rules to help the process. They are.
1. Load the cartridges pointy end to the front.
2. Shoot the animals in the front half.
It doesn't get any simpler than that.
Grandpamac.
165gr SST @ 2,500 FPS. Killed everything from 10 - 400 metres. Probably 50 goats and around 20 deer.
Anyone had decent results with a 125 gn 30 cal projectile on deer ?? I tried the 125 SST's in my 300 BLK and the one big stag I shot with them at 40M, was dead on the first shot but it was essential it didn't move much so it got tapped again. Both projectiles broke up and neither one exited which didn't thrill me. I want to try a light recoil load for a cobber's 308
I used 125 ABs @3000fps in my 308 for quite a while. Mostly on Japs, reds with the odd pig. They worked well, held together well, but didn't penetrate as well as I liked once the range got out there a bit. I like holes in both sides of things. Gone to 165gn BTs now but 150s would be fine too.
Experience. What you get just after you needed it.
I use factory fiocchi 168gr with sierra (matchking i think) projectiles in my t3x 308. Ive had it chopped to 18" and grouping is good. I also use hornady whitetail 150gr as they group well in my t3x too.
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the 125grn NBT work great at bush ranges at x39mm speed......bang flop with chest shots.....at full noise .308 speeds they are naaaasty on wallabies,might be a tad much for big deer with shoulder shot but will probably handle it...the 130grn speer hollow points expand very naaaastily too....if you looking for reduced recoil but still want deep penertration look to a 110grn barnes....you can drive them fast without huge recoil and being copper the BC should be about same or better than the 125-130grn lead cores...still not a long range proposition...
piece of piss to have a 2nd longer range load on hand...or 2 rounds down the mag column....
I like trying different things, but my main projectile now is the 178gr ELD-X. Used to be the Hornady 150 interlock spire point (#3031). I also use Robert's 151 casts for subs.
Also used:
150 and 170 grain flat nose 30-30 projectiles (Sierra and Hornady)
Sierra 125 FNHP
Hornady 160 FTX
Speer 130 HP
I now have a 1:8 twist 308 so will no doubt be trying some heavier bullets in the future, and have some Hornady 190gr Sub-X to try.
A little off topic but for years I used CAC 180 grain hollow points in my 308 Finnwolf, had great success on everything from chamois to reds.
Does nobody use hollow points for hunting any more?
your rifle has fired a heap of them Mate..130grn speers 151grn cast and 125grn sierras....
as for the modern answer...MOST of the fancy fandangled plastic tips are bunged into a hollow point so they get best of both worlds.
Anybody successfully switching between subsonic and supersonic 150-170 grain loads in a 1:10 twist or is that not twisty enough for the subs?
"O Great Guru what projectile should I use in my .308?" To which the guru replied, "It doesn't matter."
-Grandpamac
To use subs in a 1:10 you need to get the 151gr cast hollow points they are sometimes on Trademe. I think Robertnz is his handle on here. I am using them combined with 130gr accubonds in my .308. I have to dial up 6 MOA from my supersonic zero to get subs zeroed at 25yds, but then they stay point of aim out to 75yds. I haven't personally shot game with the subs yet, but have heard good reports of them.
You won't get the heavier sub prejectiles to stabilise in a 1:10, need a 1:8.
150gr Speer soft points
Cheap, very accurate, and works well on animals, although I've only tried them on goats.
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