Thread: 6.5x55 accuracy

Hi Peter
I have 4 swedes, from an 1899 M96 to a 1942 M38 all in original military configuration. They are very accurate rifles that group in 1-1.5” @100m with hand loads and not much worse with factory. Norma factory ammo is worth a look but I handload for my Swedes. I have been using Norma 204 powder but am changing as I find it very dirty burning. Going to 2209, I would be going to RL17 but it’s too hard to get still and am saving that for my 300WSM. Any powder in that range is what you need. I’ve used Sierra Matchking which are good as are Hornady ELDM’s. I use ELDX for hunting. I have a mate who also uses 2209 in his Swede also in his CG63 target rifle.
PM me if you’d like.
Cheers
Craig

write that load down..... and dont loose it.
so projectile shape and weight matters.... the distance the projectile has to "jump" untill it enguages rifleing make a big difference in some rifles....and projectile shape makes big difference here.
the whitetail is probably quite different SOMEWHERE.... once you work out what the somewhere is,you can mitagate it.
if you can find some heavier blunter projectiles in factory ammunition..they COULD/SHOULD be better as will be closer to origonal military load,the projectile should also have less of said"jump" as big fat round front end has shoulders closer to edge of bore VS taper of a splitzer.

I have a Carl Gustaf 3000 in 6,5 x 55 and I am using RWS at the moment. Once I have shot the 100 RWS I will get my reloading guru to develop a load using the RWS brass. Today though it’s very accurate using quality factory ammo. My cousin has a CG in 22.250
and it’s a tack driver. So if the rifle has a good barrel it may be just about finding suitable quality factory ammo or finding someone who can develop an accurate hand load. CG’s have a good reputation.

Greetings @Peter Adams,
I have both an M38 and a T3 Lite in 6.5x55. Both shoot well. The M38 has a reasonable barrel and has been re crowned as damage in this area can ruin accuracy. You need to have someone look at this before you waste too much ammo on it. Mine also has an aftermarket trigger. The throat is long so you may not be able to seat projectiles close to the rifling. I would stay away from boat tail projectiles as I found the 120 and 129 grain flat base projectiles shot well.
Make things easy on yourself by finding a mentor to help you get set up. Finding decent handloading data can be a challenge so I am happy to share my knowledge via PM. The US factory ammo is piss weak and not worth bothering with and the better stuff is eye wateringly expensive. There are also pitfalls in setting up your dies not to oversize your cases as US dies generally set the shoulder back too far. None of this is difficult to work through if you have someone to guide you along the way. The 6.5x55 is a great cartridge and well worth the bother.
Regards Grandpamac.

If the Handloads are grouping Ok and the factory loads wont hit a cardboard box it feel to me like something else is going on here. I agree handloads can be more accurate than factory ammo but this difference is extreme.
If you are in Haruru falls I am in Coopers Beach. I would be happy gto help you out with sussing the issue and/or getting you going with handloading. Message me if you like.

You don't say if your using iron sights or optics, not that that's important I guess. The standard bullets in military ammunition were flat based. Flat based projectiles are generally more accurate in service rifles than boat tails as they set up better in a worn throat. Dismantle a handload and see what style it is and go from there

Thats strange ive got a pulled factory sweed mil round here and its definatley a boat tail. Have to see if I can find a pick...

Originally Posted by blip

Attachment 241567

Well I'll be darned, I had some from a battlepack ( sealed in green plastic 200rnds) dated 76 or so that didn't fire so pulled them apart, definitely remember they were nickel jackets flat base with a flake powder

When I purchased, second hand, my Schultz and Larsen 6.5x55, the advice the Gunsmith gave me was, "European rifle, buy European manufactured ammunition. America rifle, American ammunition." I bought 4 boxes of Sako 130grn and have been very happy with both accuracy and terminal results. I don't shoot cardboard, only living targets, so still have at least 35 or 25 left. I have got the dies, but haven't had the need to start reloading yet. I was told European brass is better quality, Norma is about the best, some will say Lapua or something else. And as someone alluded too, European ammo can be 100 to 200fps faster than American.

The point is factory ammo is eye watering EXPENSIVE so buddy up with an experienced reloading and learn a new skill in 2024.

Originally Posted by zeropak

If the Handloads are grouping Ok and the factory loads wont hit a cardboard box it feel to me like something else is going on here. I agree handloads can be more accurate than factory ammo but this difference is extreme.
If you are in Haruru falls I am in Coopers Beach. I would be happy gto help you out with sussing the issue and/or getting you going with handloading. Message me if you like.

That's awesome, thanks. I'm actually moving to kaeo so perhaps could shoot up at some point for some advice. Cheers, Pete

Thanks everyone for the replies. What a helpful bunch. Sounds like I need to keep an eye open for some reloading gear. While I've got your attention the gun also misfired once and when I dropped the bolt back it went off. Put me off of using it tbh but I've since read it can happen if you don't engage the bolt firmly enough. Any of you knowledgeable lot have any ideas on this?

Greetings again,
You said the rifle mis fired which I take to mean that you pulled the trigger, the firing pin went forward and the round did not fire. So far so good. Next you said when you dropped the bolt back it went off. Did you open and close the bolt and pull the trigger to make it fire or what? If this is what happened then it was just a dodgy primer or a grossly oversized case. The rounds need to be loaded in the mag rather than dropped in the chamber to ensure they are picked up by the extractor so this could be a problem or was it something else which may need fixing?
GPM.

Originally Posted by grandpamac

Greetings again,
You said the rifle mis fired which I take to mean that you pulled the trigger, the firing pin went forward and the round did not fire. So far so good. Next you said when you dropped the bolt back it went off. Did you open and close the bolt and pull the trigger to make it fire or what? If this is what happened then it was just a dodgy primer or a grossly oversized case. The rounds need to be loaded in the mag rather than dropped in the chamber to ensure they are picked up by the extractor so this could be a problem or was it something else which may need fixing?
GPM.

I just started opening the bolt to take shell out. Went off as I moved the bolt. I may of put it directly into the chamber. I wasn't aware you shouldn't load that way so have learnt something else today! Thank you

Originally Posted by Peter Adams

I just started opening the bolt to take shell out. Went off as I moved the bolt. I may of put it directly into the chamber. I wasn't aware you shouldn't load that way so have learnt something else today! Thank you

Ive had that happen on an older rifle after it had been out in the rain a couple of days.
I think the trigger or firing pin had got hung up and was released when I moved the bolt a little.
In the meantime, take off the stock, clean trigger assembly and bolt with a light oil like CRC 5.56 and blow out with compressed air. Needs to go to a gunsmith soon. People here will suggest one who is good with Carl Gustav.

Always point a firearm in a safe direction.