Thread: Annealing

Looks good. Another point to note is that if you get a collet neck sizing die you don't work the brass as much as a full length die so you can go far far longer between annealings.

Looks good Will, citric acid might remove the staining. otherwise youll just be hardcore

Zimmer
What temperature tempilaq should be used? Cant seem to find consistant temperatures.Some say 750degrees for the top and 350 for the bottom. Is this correct?

Cheers guys - do you reckon these look ok to use? When I tried your crush test @Massive with the pliers, the necks were waaay softer than a twice fired case which hadn't been annealed.

Originally Posted by 300_BLK

I found a guy on trade me with one of those amp annealing machines. $25 and postage and he did all my 338 and 264 brass perfect.

About the same cost as a gas torch....

An option.

Hi @300_BLK would you like to post contact details or a trade me link for the AMP guy ?

The AMP Annealer | Target Shooter Magazine
Place an Order | AMP Annealing

I thought I could buy a lot of brass, shoot new every second time for the price of one of those but it might be good to resuscitate my 15x fired stuff. The nearly new batch feels different in the press and I think it does shoot better. Just starting to get a few split necks now. Half the pockets have been loose for a while - can't fix that I know.

Originally Posted by WillB

Cheers guys - do you reckon these look ok to use? When I tried your crush test @Massive with the pliers, the necks were waaay softer than a twice fired case which hadn't been annealed.

In that case you have gone to far. It shouldn't be much softer than twice fired brass.

@muzr257 I use 650F for the necks to ender the shoulder and 350F for the body below the neck. You can use 400F instead of the 350F.

I use an AMP annealer and have noticed that some cases don't change colour at all.So it might be wise to be cautious if relying on a change in colour as the most reliable indicator.
Predictably Lapua and Norma brass are the most consistent but even a change of cleaning method gives different colours.
The option of sending it to someone who uses one of these machines looks like a good deal.
Science is always better insurance than art...

Anytime you get a red glow and that tin color when it's cooled down you have gone to far. If you underanneal then the worse that will happen is that you will have to redo it. If you overanneal then you will have an exciting day at the range so caution is advised.

Very well put. Maybe I'll start saving for a machine!

Any rate enough of that, no good me banging on about mine – if you want to practice I suggest a good single burner (fast) flame which should do the job in around 8 seconds. Work in an almost dark room. Heat at the shoulder neck junction – my burners direct the flames at a slight angle slightly favouring mid shoulder. Look for the change to a dull glow and then STOP. I view down into the necks on mine and just see the dull glow begin before the machine indexes. The dull glow appearance is only fleeting. Also helps if your cases are nice and clean, no lube burning off. No need to toss them in water as once you remove them from the flame no damage can be done.

What Zimmer said ..... confirms what I've found by trial and error, 7 - 8 secs with a single burner and the drill does it nicely for me. Varies a bit with brass manufacturer. Be wary, not all things loaded onto YouTube are from experts or folks who actually know what they're doing.

Hold it in bare hands and it's almost impossible to overheat. Dump into water afterwards.

Why aim it at the neck and shoulder junction? You don't need to anneal the shoulder much at all. Especially if you are mainly neck sizing. I do it exactly perpendicular and centre of the neck, not that I'm an expert.

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Originally Posted by MassiveAttack

Hold it in bare hands and it's almost impossible to overheat. Dump into water afterwards.

Sorry, you have lost me - what is the purpose of dunking them in water?

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As requested @Bagheera