Thread: annealing help please

Anyone actually trying to anneal brass necks with a candle will soon realise how futile it is

At 600F brass needs one hour to anneal, fortunately 800F only needs a few seconds

You need a localised application from a high heat output to treat the neck only, avoiding heat transfer to the shoulder.

By the time a candle got a brass neck hot enough the heat will have travelled the length of the brass.


If anyone intends altering the crystalline structure of a pressure vessel (made of non ferrous metal) please know exactly what you are doing.

Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

Anyone actually trying to anneal brass necks with a candle will soon realise how futile it is

At 600F brass needs one hour to anneal, fortunately 800F only needs a few seconds

You need a localised application from a high heat output to treat the neck only, avoiding heat transfer to the shoulder.

By the time a candle got a brass neck hot enough the heat will have travelled the length of the brass.


If anyone intends altering the crystalline structure of a pressure vessel (made of non ferrous metal) please know exactly what you are doing.

When do you want to order yours?

Sent from my SM-A226B using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by andyanimal31

When do you want to order yours?

Sent from my SM-A226B using Tapatalk

I can just get you to do them when you send me that Sako Varmint

Originally Posted by 7mmsaum

I can just get you to do them when you send me that Sako Varmint

I just had it out fondling it last night, I don't think it's moving to the bay yet!

Sent from my SM-A226B using Tapatalk

@7mmsaum a mate has a bull barrel 6mm ppc maybe a a11 immaculate bluing is fantastic timber is beauty it’s a laser and he has a short attention span

Originally Posted by Kelton

@7mmsaum a mate has a bull barrel 6mm ppc maybe a a11 immaculate bluing is fantastic timber is beauty it’s a laser and he has a short attention span

Yes please yes please yes please

Cheers everyone.
Yup big thing is I can't justify (afford) 300 bucks for a really good one.
I have had a most excellent offer from a forum member to assist at the hand loaders range.
That guy who does free shipping for his one on trade me isn't too bad a deal either.
I don't do poo tons of reloading so a batch every now and again won't break the bank.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_aukSJwUXA&t=93s

Originally Posted by TeRei

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_aukSJwUXA&t=93s

That man knows his science!

Sent from my SM-A226B using Tapatalk

I make a standing row of 50 .303 cases, walk gas torch from neck to neck. Point at which to move on to the next is when the moisture on the brass disappears.

As for rotating the brass, if you ever try flame annealing you'll know how good a heat conductor brass is, so no need to rotate.

Most factory brass is annealed in a furnace...

Originally Posted by caberslash

Most factory brass is annealed in a furnace...

I could find that Adg and Peterson use induction.
If some manufactures use flame they would have very highend metalurgy labs that the mere candle annealler doesn't have access to.
You need to read Alex Finlays book as it's an outstanding insight as to why flame annealing is just total guess work with variable results.
End of story.

Sent from my SM-A226B using Tapatalk

So what I'm taking from this thread is unless you are after absolute precision or use rare/expensive brass then don't bother. Just chuck it out and buy new lot of cases.

Originally Posted by Dama dama

So what I'm taking from this thread is unless you are after absolute precision or use rare/expensive brass then don't bother. Just chuck it out and buy new lot of cases.

Hope you are being sarcastic there.

Perfect annealing is not just about saving cases from splitting contrary to popular opinion. It's also and probably more so about consistent neck tension. Every time you resize a fired case you work harden the brass and that alters the neck tension from the previous reload of that case. Variable neck tension is not conducive to accuracy.