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Thread: Which Chronograph

  1. #31
    Member gadgetman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zimmer View Post
    Hi GM - you take it wrong. The V2 and now the V3 easily fit cans. I don't think the V1 did but they are long since superseded. I regularly clamp my V2 to a big fat 22 suppressor. They also sell a watered down model - Hunter?? - which doesn't fit a can.
    Interesting. How close does the projectile need to travel to the blade to be detected?
    There are only three types of people in this world. Those that can count, and those that can't!

  2. #32
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    Its about 0.25 inche in old money , and there is a 0.25 , 1/4 inche , square section rod , and you use it to align the bottom of the bore , here's some quick pics to show a rough alignment for you , it also has a silicon protector to put under the nylon strap .

    This is the V3 model .



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  3. #33
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    You just mix & match the 5 different spacers to get the rod close to the bottom of the bore , easier to do than explain .
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  4. #34
    Member Tikka7mm08's Avatar
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    Must say rethinking looking at that bit of kit.

  5. #35
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    Just to be clear , that square rod is only used to get the height correct , once you have that , you remove the rod , before shooting .

  6. #36
    Member gadgetman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisF View Post
    You just mix & match the 5 different spacers to get the rod close to the bottom of the bore , easier to do than explain .
    Explained perfectly.

    Wish the sporter version was better set up.
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  7. #37
    Member zimmer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadgetman View Post
    Explained perfectly.

    Wish the sporter version was better set up.
    Mate bought their el cheepo one and machined out the clamp so it would fit big heavy non tapered barrels.
    I don't use the square rod to set my V2 up. I use a carbon fibre cleaning rod (non magnetic so doesn't stick to the sensors) which I poke a fair way done the muzzle and the support in such a way that it is sitting on the bottom of the barrel. I then set the gap at around 4mm under both sensors. Problem with my V2 Bayonet is something its out of wack. If you clamp the bayonet to the barrel and then check the bayonet rises to the last sensor. This is made worse on heavy tapered barrels. I use a folded up piece of card in the front of the clamp to get the bore alignment parallel with the sensors. Just using the rod only tells you the clearance at the muzzle but not whether the whole set up is parallel. Last thing I do b4 firing is eyeball thru the tube - if I cannot see the bayonet she's good to go. Then after the first shot I recheck the tightness of the clamp. Never had one loosen though. Sounds all like a lot of messing around but the MagnetoSpeed is brilliant to set up compared to an optical device. Usually up and running in about 6 minutes compared with traipsing forward and back to set up an optical chrony.

  8. #38
    Member gadgetman's Avatar
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    That's exactly what I'm looking for. Now to justify the cost.
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  9. #39
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    Got cunning and ordered parts from magnetospeed website. Got the blade with strap, spacers, strap protectors and the phone cable for under NZ$370.
    Dr. Death likes this.
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  10. #40
    Member gadgetman's Avatar
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    Got cunning and ordered parts from magnetospeed website. Got the V3 blade with strap, spacers, strap protectors and the phone cable for under NZ$370.
    zimmer likes this.
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  11. #41
    Member gadgetman's Avatar
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    Separate order for the Sporter display and a few other spares.
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