Thread: Cleaning brass...

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

using overall length trimmer,the case is held by rim in attachment inserted in cordless drill...case gets trimmed for length,deburred inside n out if any removed by trimmer...then while still in drill hold choirboy pad (must try steel wool) and given a quick whirl...shines them up a little.

Yup steel wool works good but doesn't last long

I looked at all the ghetto methods and decided I like shiny brass. Use a Frankford Arsenal tumbler with corn cob and additive..imported it when they were super pricey here, 2005, a friend coming over from the States brought it in.. still going strong. Have a Hornady also now and a Smart Reloader, $100 and $50 used. For that sort of dosh and just chuck them in and come back in a couple of hours that works well for me as I do large qtys of Pistol brass as well. If just doing the rifle, rag and brush would be fine.

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

using overall length trimmer,the case is held by rim in attachment inserted in cordless drill...case gets trimmed for length,deburred inside n out if any removed by trimmer...then while still in drill hold choirboy pad (must try steel wool) and given a quick whirl...shines them up a little.

Same as this a lot of the time with the odd biff into the sonic or media tumbler.
I use a product called Never Dull on the necks instead of steel wool. whilew they are in the holder.

Originally Posted by grandpamac

Greetings All,
Being a low tech handloader by inclination I follow the low tech route.
1. First don't let your brass get too dirty in the first place.
2. Next I deprime using a Lee punch and base set and clean the primer pockets with a small screw driver. This is done on a separate bench from my press to keep the gritty residue away from the press ram.
3. Next the outside of the case necks are given a spiff up with steel wool to remove burnt powder residue. If you have not mastered step 1. yet you may need to attend to the rest of the case with the steel wool. A quick polish with a Chux cloth finishes the job. This step is also done on the previously mentioned separate bench to keep the steel wool fibers away from the magnetic damper on my beam scales.
4. As part of case lubrication, wiped on with fingers, the inside of the case neck is given a quick clean with a strip of Chux wound around an old bore brush with a light touch of case lube from the fingers mentioned previously. This eases the passage of the expander button.
That is my method at the moment. Please note I said at the start it was low tech not low OCD.
Regards Grandpamac.

Hi GPM

Are you not concerned about lube contaminating the charge (I'm assuming lube at neck won't make it to primer which would be my next thought...)?

If you have a treadmill... a 4lb plastic protein container tub filled with SS media, laundry powder and dishwash liquid works nicely. Just don’t stand on it while you’re running.

Originally Posted by -BW-

If you have a treadmill... a 4lb plastic protein container tub filled with SS media, laundry powder and dishwash liquid works nicely. Just don’t stand on it while you’re running.

Chuck a hamster in and let him have at it on the floor...

I decided a long time ago that shiny brass contributed nothing to consistency. I uniform primer pockets, size and brush the inside of the neck a bit with a nylon brush then get on with loading. I never use expander buttons, preferring to expand necks with a K&M expander Mandela before sizing.

Originally Posted by davetapson

Hi GPM

Are you not concerned about lube contaminating the charge (I'm assuming lube at neck won't make it to primer which would be my next thought...)?

I use a dry powder neck lube.
Also I tap the case a couple of times mouth down and a couple of times base down to reduce
The amount t of graphite, brass trimmings and primer debris left inside.

Originally Posted by davetapson

Hi GPM

Are you not concerned about lube contaminating the charge (I'm assuming lube at neck won't make it to primer which would be my next thought...)?

Greetings Davetapson,
Sorry for the late reply, just spotted your post. I was concerned about contamination early on when using a more liquid case lube. I used to clean the neck inside with a dry Chux strip. Since I changed to a wax lube I found I was able to minimise the amount used and have encountered no problems. I just give the Chux a light brush with my fingers after lubricating a case. The dry media mentioned elsewhere in this thread would be just as good and possibly better.
Regrads Grandpamac.