Thread: Die TRedding locking rings.

Tip
Redding although being top of the line dies, provide a barbaric locking ring system, that will damage the thread of your dies. Solution insert a fine piece of shotgun shot into the thread then you can do it up without damaging the thread. The lead locks it up without digging into the thread.

Originally Posted by flock

Tip
Redding although being top of the line dies, provide a barbaric locking ring system, that will damage the thread of your dies. Solution insert a fine piece of shotgun shot into the thread then you can do it up without damaging the thread. The lead locks it up without digging into the thread.

Fully agree. Redding - fantastic dies, crap locking ring system. I've replaced all Redding locking rings with the much more useful Hornady Die Locking Rings that don't have any mechanism contact with die threads. And they're flat sided to work with the Horady die tool spanner.

Just lately been replacing my original Redding mongrels with Forster cross bolt lock rings.
I never tightened the Redding rings excessively but had to take over half of my Redding dies and clamp them in soft jaws in my vice to break the hold of the lock rings by applying multi grips to them.
Of course I could also be getting feeble with old age I guess.

They also theorise that grub screw type lock rings can tilt ever so slightly whereas the cross bolt ones don't as they fully clamp around the die thread.

Ancient Lyman dies I have have a lead ball in the bottom of the grub screw hole.

Originally Posted by 30.06king

Fully agree. Redding - fantastic dies, crap locking ring system. I've replaced all Redding locking rings with the much more useful Hornady Die Locking Rings that don't have any mechanism contact with die threads. And they're flat sided to work with the Horady die tool spanner.

Same

so if Im reading the new improved "alteration " correctly..I take the wee grub screw out of locking ring on the redding dies,and pop a ??#7 lead bird shot in and put grub screw in again???

Thats a picture of mine with the hornady lock ring

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

so if Im reading the new improved "alteration " correctly..I take the wee grub screw out of locking ring on the redding dies,and pop a ??#7 lead bird shot in and put grub screw in again???

YEP , can flatten the pointy end of the the grub screw for a better result but not necessary if you don't over tighten.

Or us two rings as a lock nut

Originally Posted by Moa Hunter

Or us two rings as a lock nut

I've done that with my Lee dies

The Redding people put a thing on their website saying these ship with a sliver of lead in the locknut for the locking screw to bite on. Probably it's getting lost, or gorrillad but I haven't noted any thread damage on mine.

All my Redding lock rings have the lead in them. Once removed you can see the thread pitch in the lead. And despite the lead they still locked up after not being loosened for several years hence the trip to the vice and soft jaws. And no, I didn't strongarm them. Have changed all mine to Forster. A vastly superior lock ring.

And yes, no thread damage.

Also, if removing the Redding lock rings for some reason and intending to refit don't wind the grub screw in whilst removed. The wee bit of lead either falls out or protrudes enough to give a bit of grief when attempting to refit.

Early RCBS dies had a similar locking set up. I found that the lead would make adjustment difficult even with the grub screw backed out a bit but then twigged to giving the lock ring a smart tap with something like a hammer handle which was enough to loosen the grip of the lead on the thread & presto, easy adjusting.

Must be a kiwi thing I have redding dies and they all came with said lead shot but I still changed out to the Forster and hornady lock rings as the shot sticks in the threads and is a PITA to make adjustments.