Thread: I don't make things easy for myself... Die help requested.

Originally Posted by Pommy

I'd be a touch concerned that if I didn't get it perfectly the same ID as the bushing that I'd either be doing something weird to the necks or encouraging donut formation.

I don't know if you've realised but you are already "doing something weird" so why not go for it

Don't worry about doughnuts.
I have doughnuts sorted and have a patented doughnut removal technique sorted .
I have the ultimate doughnut caliber in the 6.5x65R. Big long sharply sloping case with a short neck in a small caliber.
So I had to solve that problem myself

I can talk shop a little bit but my skills with a dremel are agricultural at best. That kinda thing is definitely best left to someone who actually knows what they're doing!

Originally Posted by Pommy

Did you find that the bushing was still sitting low enough to the shoulder to size the neck all the way down? I'd be going from 20cal to 24cal so it might be a bit thicker.

As already mentioned, they don't size all the way, which I kind of like as to me the last portion of unsized neck is like an alignment tool actually on the case, when chambered. Less of a donut maker too, when you keep away from the neck shoulder junction.
I think this option is the best for you, as you get the benefit of adjusting neck tension with the bushes.

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Thanks for the heads up Kelton


Ive been looking into doing exactly this for some time. From my research it seams that most who has done this have gone the following route:
204 Bushing type Redding dies, with the appropriate bushing and then they've changed the decapping assembly to a 6mm pin and expander ball.

Honing the hole at the shoulder/neck junction open to .27ish should be strait forward.

Keep us updated on your progress Pommy - I went 6x45 by the way

I had a go with a 6br redding bushing die yesterday. Same shoulder angle and shorter, so I could run the case all the way up until the shoulder made contact. The bushing didn't size enough of the neck for my liking, so I'm definitely more inclined to try to honed out 204R body die and a mandrel.

I'll see if I can get a generic neck sizing die in the interim.

Have you had a look on the American forums? A quick search on google showed some discussions about it at least...

At one time RCBS and probably others would make custom dies if you sent 3 fired cases, Probably stopped doing it years ago but worth enquiring. Won't be cheap though.
GPM.

Originally Posted by grandpamac

At one time RCBS and probably others would make custom dies if you sent 3 fired cases, Probably stopped doing it years ago but worth enquiring. Won't be cheap though.
GPM.

Not that long ago Hornady was still doing it. You sent them 3 cases with the primer pockets drilled out, to get thru customs. The cases were not returned.
Most common was Hornady used to make a hydraulic forming die.

The RCBS custom shop has closed.

My searches through the yank forums haven't yielded any solutions I wasn't already aware of e.g. giving Whidden or CH4D lots of money and waiting months for custom dies.

I have ordered a body die and will try to get a 6mm neck sizing die.

Looks like RCBS offer the dies in their special order range. There is an article on the handloader website.
GPM.

Originally Posted by Pommy

I had a go with a 6br redding bushing die yesterday. Same shoulder angle and shorter, so I could run the case all the way up until the shoulder made contact. The bushing didn't size enough of the neck for my liking, so I'm definitely more inclined to try to honed out 204R body die and a mandrel.

I'll see if I can get a generic neck sizing die in the interim.

Years ago I bought a generic neck sizing die made by Hornady. Basically a great big hole with the sizing bit at the top. I bought it to size my 22-250. The die was absolutely shite and due to no case support did an excellent job of inducing runout. I later converted it to a dedicated decapping die.

I'm using a Hornady 22cal neck die and Redding body die for my 22-250AI. Appreciate it might be inducing some runout but it's not having any noticeable negative effect downrange.

My 6.5 Swede Ackley has a FLS die made using the chambering reamer. Unfortunately using the chambering reamer it only just FLSizes, barely enough.

I bought a centre bored blank ex USA which sped up the process.
The die has been electroless nickeled in an attempt to give it more "squeeze".

For neck sizing a and seating I have 6.5x55SM Redding Comp dies whose sliding sleaves have had the reamer run thru them.

My dealing with Dave at CH4D were very timely but I only bought std dies off him.
Whidden was OK timely wise too but their expensive bushed FLSing die was no better than what I was using.

Useless info which is probably not much use to you.

so you know you can resize the walls of body with a 204 die..but neck will be squished inwards too much...but if you cut the top off it would do the sides..leaving neck n shoulders to do.... IF the shoulder angle is the same as the 204 you can do that bit too,just leaving neck itself to be sized now the redneck in me says you could do it with and 6mm die if you cut enough off its bum
you could infact do the neck BEFORE doing the body and if these fellas on here are correct you wont need a expander ball at all simple slip your boat tailed projectile into sized case and let it open neck up itself...
there just has to be an easy way to do this

Originally Posted by Mathias

As already mentioned, they don't size all the way, which I kind of like as to me the last portion of unsized neck is like an alignment tool actually on the case, when chambered. Less of a donut maker too, when you keep away from the neck shoulder junction.
I think this option is the best for you, as you get the benefit of adjusting neck tension with the bushes.

Sent from my SM-S906E using Tapatalk

Not to mention that extra case capacity created at the junction bonus!