Thread: Keeping it Simple for New Handloaders

Greetings All,
There have been a number of new or prospective handloaders asking for tips on starting out and much helpful advice has been forthcoming. There have also been a number of threads dealing with more advanced handloading techniques. It crossed my mind that some newbies reading the more advanced posts may have formed the opinion that the techniques in these posts are essential if you expect to hit a deer standing side on at 200 metres. This is not the case. The more advanced handloading techniques are relevant for those shooting at longer range either deer or targets. A considerable expenditure is needed for the kit and in my opinion, at least the newbie is better served by keeping it simple.

In my mind the kit needed starting out is as follows:
1. Something to deprime the case and resize the case so it will fit in the chamber and grip the projectile. This can be as simple as a Lee Loader or a basic press and full length sizing die.
2. Something to measure cases and to trim them if needed and chamfer them inside and out. If you are only loading for one calibre the simple Lee hand tool is ideal as no measuring is needed. A caliper for measuring and a case trimmer is better for the rest of us.
3. Some way of re priming the case. The Lee loader will do this as will the press or you might prefer a hand primer like I do.
4. A handloading manual. Data for most cartridges is available on line from the likes of Hodgdon, Nosler and others. Check any loads you see on the Forums against these before using. A printed manual will have a step by step guide which will be most helpful.
5. Something to measure powder. Scoops like the Lee ones can be used but a set of scales will be needed soon.
6. Something to seat the projectile. The Lee loader and basic press with a seating die will also do this. You can set them using a factory cartridge if you do not have a caliper but you will need one of these soon enough.
7. Last but probably the most important a mentor. This is an experienced handloader, grey hair preferred, to take you through the steps slowly and keep you pointed in the right direction.

You might like to read through my "Notes for New and Newish Handloaders from an Old Fudd" posted a while back on this Forum.
Happy Loading,
Grandpamac.

Thanks @grandpamac sound advice, unfortunately I know of no handloaders near where I live so will have to hold my own hands and follow the book extremely closely

I know several people who go all out getting really in depth with their reloading who couldn't shoot a good group if they tried anyhow. The number one thing that will improve your reloading experience is trigger time.

Originally Posted by Happy Jack

Thanks @grandpamac sound advice, unfortunately I know of no handloaders near where I live so will have to hold my own hands and follow the book extremely closely

I'm in north canterbury I would be happy to help you out.
I also have a couple grey hairs sneaking in if that counts

Originally Posted by dannyb

I'm in north canterbury I would be happy to help you out.
I also have a couple grey hairs sneaking in if that counts

Thanks @dannyb I have 2 weeks off from next Tuesday and I could always leave the wife in Goon for a days shopping.

Originally Posted by Happy Jack

Thanks @dannyb I have 2 weeks off from next Tuesday and I could always leave the wife in Goon for a days shopping.

Flick me a pm with ya number, I'm sure we can tee something up.

Greetings All,
Many thanks for your likes. Thanks also to Dannyb for his offer of mentoring to Happy Jack. One thing I neglected to mention is that for the newbie handloader it is important to master the basics first. This is best accomplished using the most basic equipment possible. Once this is achieved informed decisions can be made on which of the many paths to take and what sort of equipment dependent on what sort of shooting or hunting we are into or just because we want to. There are no wrong choices. I rather like the low tech, hands on path but that's just me. You will choose your own path, refining it over the years. It's your path and your journey so enjoy it.
Regards Grandpamac.

Well said GPM.
Reloading can be as simple or as complicated as you want it to be. And with "complicated" comes expense.
First and foremost, you have to have mastered the art of accurate shooting. I've heard a lot of handloaders blame their reloads when in fact they couldnt hit a dog in the arse if it was on a lead.

I have certainly been guilty of overthinking reloading for my 6.5x55’s, both the older SE variants and a new Tikka. Simple but careful is best I believe; no need to chase some godforsaken light speed.

Just to reinforce the GPM's KISS principle. For my first 15 years of handloading (308 and treble 2) I used a Lyman 310 handtool. (Google it)
I had a second hand first model Redding beam balance with oil dash pot dampening. The oil constantly meniscused out over the sides then dust stuck to that.
I had no way of FLSing, I had to go to a mate for that.

Now I read about case cleaning devices, crappy electronic scales etc etc being top of newbie's purchase lists.
Reloaders concerned about the time taken winding in and out of dies into single stage presses and so on.

Through out my Lyman 310 years I successfully shot fullbore so my ammo wasn't too damn bad..

Don't get me wrong, I've now got all the bells and whistles, mainly because i reached a stage in life when i could afford it plus I enjoyed the hobby, but you certainly don't need it starting out and as already pointed out, depending where you head and your ammo needs may never need it.

Keep it simple is my motto. I use a basic die set, an old Lyman spartan press, old Lyman scales, some very basic lee case prep tools and a teaspoon for powder handling. I prime on the press. It's not fast or fancy but can produce sub moa groups no worries.

I started simple with a Lee Hand Press. I figured for the $30 it cost me on sale that I could get a taste for reloading and then expand as needed, which I did over time. Eventually when you learn what you need to, it comes down to how much is your time worth? So over time for me I sought to spend money to buy more automated or semi automated tools to speed up case prep and processing. The $100 I spend on the Lee Automated Processing Press for instance was well worth it. In the end it depends on your needs, time and budget.

Interesting thread and viewpoints. I'm an avid reloader in several Pistol and Rifle calibres.

On the range I can shoot a modest group, as good with my reloads as with factory. The ammo is usually better than I am. I hunt small game and goats mostly, deer and pig this year I hope. My (as opposed to my rifle's) effective killing range is well under 250m (age and eyesight) and 90 % under 80m. I shoot for meat rather than sport or culling, not that I wouldn't but that I don't usually get such an opportunity.

I'm a fan of 1 shot at a live animal being preceeded, recently, by many shots down range, at paper. Paper tells the story without lies. And range time gives me a great excuse to reload.

I started reloading with a Lee Loader in 303 B in my twenties, scared shtless of getting it wrong and not knowing anyone who reloaded. Some decades later I have more presses and gear than I am willing to state, not because of ability but out of interest. I've collected reloading books, mags, filled notebooks, searched the internet and experimented, bought, sold, traded and swapped. Used new gear, resurrected old gear, collected now obsolete powders, carefully carefully carefully developed loads. I'm still here to tell the tale.

If you wanted to get started, without great expense or complexity, just getting to know the basics of using a press, or hand tools, various methods, powders etc I could probably help.

If you want to shoot benchrest groups at a 1000m I could get you started but all the finishing would be up to you.

If you want to shoot your own reloads in your own rifle at reasonable hunting distances, or hit the IPSC or Speed Steel course with reliable loads that don't stop your gun I could get you both started and finished.

If you're serious about researching loads across calibres, powders, projectiles, I'll push hard for your gear to include a chronograph. The rest could be done with a $65 Lee Loader, albeit slowly. A few more dollars gets you considerably more capability, without going to extremes.

However, I won't be the guy who demonstrates his reloading ability with sub 1/2 MOA groups on range day - at any distance, (unless perhaps I'm shooting my BSA CF2 in .222 from a rest).

I'm sure there are plenty of fellas around like me. I'm in Auckland and often in Taranaki and happy to help someone starting out, or to compare notes and interest with others further down the track. I'm a fan for saving dollars by buying used gear and job-lots. But you kind of need to know what you're looking for, and I can help with that too. I'm one of those strange guys who enjoy reloading as much as shooting.

I've been helped by folk on this forum just sending stuff I was after and others from elsewhere with info etc that I was looking for. I would be happy to pass that forward.

Some further observations. Reloading is rarely if ever about saving dollars - unless you shoot thousands of rounds in Pistol, hundreds in Rifle. I personally would recommend a hunter to be putting lots of rounds downrange on paper for every shot taken at an animal. Not too keen on hearing " I only shoot a doz shots a year so don't need to reload" but ok, if that's you I guess its your biz.

I think it's true that today a $1000 will buy an awful lot of (highly accurate) rifle that will happily shoot great hunting groups out of the box with factory ammo. Maybe even for target. But if you really want confidence when you finally eyeball that animal you spent a fortune in time and money getting in your sights, the last thing you need to be worrying about is your ability to access that awesome rifle's accuracy. Range time builds accuracy, and familiarity with your rifle so that using it, it becomes an extension of your mind and body. The last thing you want to be worrying about is what will happen when the bang comes. That's when reloading may save you some dollars, but, much more important, it has the potential to extract the best from the combination of rifle, load, and shooter. Reloading allows you to trial and test until you know what to expect when you caress that trigger with a fine animal in your sights. Load 100 rds, put 80 on paper, keep the remainder for your next trip knowing exactly what you can do with them. Yes you can do that with factory. Would that people did. Reloading just adds another interesting dimension if your thataway inclined.

Anyway, my coffee is finished and I have some brass to prep.

Main thing for beginners in my humble opinion is start with premium components.

Full length resize. Don't bother with much finicky stuff, just learn to set the projectile up just off the lands and worry solely about powder charge for a start.

However you decide to lube a case, use fuel lite or well dried meths to make sure they are spotlessly clean before loading.

The reason to buy premium components is if you start off with once fired brass like most people do, you can run into problems you will never recognize, can't chase up and which are really the realm of experts. Sorting dodgy cases out requires skill and equipment and is the root of a lot of problems.

If you start with a premium case (Lapua etc) weight your powder extremely carefully, seat a projectile well and use an established powder/projectile combo for the chambering, you will load good ammo in ordinary gear.

My old gear was ultra cheap second hand trademe gear with a bottom of the line Spartan C press. Loaded some very good ammo.




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Originally Posted by Ryan_Songhurst

I know several people who go all out getting really in depth with their reloading who couldn't shoot a good group if they tried anyhow. The number one thing that will improve your reloading experience is trigger time.

Had a lesson in this yesterday . . . . shot at 500Y (457M) at our local egg shoot, with a rifle that is a bit of a work in progress. First 5 shot group was about 200mm (and I didn't hit the egg, no chance of it with a spray like that) and I thought "damm - this rifle is shooting like shit"

Went back to the mound - Oh DUH - I'd forgotten to set the cheek riser. Then the penny dropped, I'd also been squeezing the hell out of the rear bag to get elevation. Got back down on the mound, concentrated on MY technique, hit egg second round, then laid down a 0.4 MOA group.

This with reloads just done with a basic press, normal dies and thrown powder. All good components though @Tussock