Thread: Keeping it Simple for New Handloaders

Originally Posted by caberslash

Personally don't agree with this methodology.

Started out reading that this was the way (chase the lands, seat X thou off etc.), didn't have terrible accuracy but not that awesome either.

Learned about bullet designs and Tangent/Secant/Hybrid ogives.

Researched the original cartridge specs.

Then started to load 'jump friendly' bullets to factory length, and magic happens. This was most pronounced on the .308.

Does not help when there are no clear definitions on target vs. hunting loads, seen guys trying to replicate some sort of F-class load on their hunting rig.

If your rifle is wearing a factory barrel then neck-turning/reaming won't do anything and seating to the lands is probably going to make the rifle a single shot due to mag length restrictions.

If I were to start someone off I would say find a factory load that shoots good, then replicate that 1:1 or as close as possible, then progress from there.

Reloading is either about saving money or working up a super-tuned load, trying to do both at the same time usually doesn't work!

Greetings Caberslash,
Have had very good results with projectiles seated well short of the lands, usually due to long throat and short magazine. If you can't feed the rounds from the mag then what is the point of having a repeater. I generally seat the projectiles 1 mm from the lands where the mag and seating depth allow but otherwise to suit the latter. The things that I find helps to get the best accuracy where the projectiles have some distance to go is to avoid boat tail projectiles and use the heavier projectiles, say 165 grains in the .308 W. A recent test series I shot in my .308 (long throated) with 125, 150 and 165 grain FB projectiles showed an increase in accuracy as the weight increased. All were reasonable for accuracy but the 150 grain boat tails I tried years ago were average at best.
Regards Grandpamac.