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Thread: Lead pouring question

  1. #31
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    Vise grips Cheap and fast to use, C type and cut them to suit.

  2. #32
    Official Cheese Shaman Spanners's Avatar
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    Actually going to try the seamless tube way and see if it works seems to be a few doing it that way, and I dont have access to any machinery at this time to make a mould

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spanners View Post
    Actually going to try the seamless tube way and see if it works seems to be a few doing it that way, and I dont have access to any machinery at this time to make a mould
    If it doesnt leave th chamber it will bump up when you hit it, but keen to know the result

  4. #34
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    If you can use sch80 or heavier. In fact for 3/4 try and find some sch160 (a boiler shop should have it)

  5. #35
    Member Happy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spanners View Post
    This is basically what was suggested
    Attachment 7128
    Attachment 7129

    ---
    Corbin uses a tube like I was thinking about - steel i think

    To make lead wire, pure soft lead is first melted and poured into the billet
    tubes to form lead cylinders (or billets) about 4-inches long. There are two
    tubes and one base. The base is normally mounted to your bench top with
    two long screws, provided, or fastened to a piece of two by four lumber
    which can then be clamped in a vise. The tubes slip over a plug on this
    base, which seals the lead and holds the tube upright during pouring.
    Wearing heat-resistant gloves, you can remove the tube within
    seconds of pouring the lead, set it aside, and slip another tube over the
    base. Pour the second tube full of lead, and then give the first tube a
    sharp down and up shake to dislodge the lead billet. Switch tubes, and
    continue making billets in this manner.

    Have done the calcs - the billets I'll be making will be just under 1lb each, so would have to do 220ish for 100kg, or do 20 of them and stash the rest of the lead LOL
    That is a 100% tidier but sorta same concept of how we did a similar thing years ago and what I was meaning in comment above. We just didnt have access to great tools so made do. Thats
    a nice clean result on the final product ours was a little rougher than that. Brings back memeories of going through the electric motor factories in Brazil and seeing 1" inch diameter rolls of copper goin into machine at one end
    and coming out at sizes like 0.32 of a mm at the other with 16 coats of varnish applied and dry... Oh and also of Cobacabana Beach in summer of course ... OMG ...
    "This is my Flag... Ill only have the one ..

  6. #36
    Member Druid's Avatar
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    How are you melting the lead ? a bottom pour pot is probably the best way to get consistant temp and helps pouring without voids in the lead . You should flux then skim your lead to remove impurities like oxides , a lump of beeswax works well , as for moisture in lead , a drop of sweat off your brow can blow up enough lead splatter to blind you , Wear a lead fume mask if you can find one .
    Get as close as you can then six feet closer

 

 

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