Thread: Lubing case neck before seating

I dont clean my brass will just give it a wipe as its gets lubed. 1900 rounds so far so good.

Originally Posted by blair993

I dont clean my brass will just give it a wipe as its gets lubed. 1900 rounds so far so good.

What calibre out of curiosity?

260 rem 1900 rounds and 223 (about 2100 rounds)I get alot of once fired clean brass but dont clean it after that.

Originally Posted by blair993

I dont clean my brass will just give it a wipe as its gets lubed. 1900 rounds so far so good.

Ha, id be on my 3 or 4th barrel by 1900 rounds LOL

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@GWH . what cal? Went out to check zero (tikka 260rem) before taking the action and putting it in the standard stock and shoot 10mm group in the chassis and about 13mm in the stock but would have been smaller but adjusted the zero to bring back to the left.

Originally Posted by blair993

@GWH . what cal? Went out to check zero (tikka 260rem) before taking the action and putting it in the standard stock and shoot 10mm group in the chassis and about 13mm in the stock but would have been smaller but adjusted the zero to bring back to the left.

28 Nosler, got a few other cals to shoot so I don't wear it out too fast tho

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@GWH that'l do it.

this reloading game is complex and you are for ever learning new stuff everyday. But @GWH one bit that got me really puzzled .... why does one need to put your balls in that graphite powder ???

Originally Posted by chainsaw

this reloading game is complex and you are for ever learning new stuff everyday. But @GWH one bit that got me really puzzled .... why does one need to put your balls in that graphite powder ???

It never hurts to be well lubricated mate

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I bought the Redding graphite powder/balls and lube about five years ago from Sinclair International but have since seen it here in NZ but can't remember exactly where. Might of been Serious Shooters in Penrose.

I use fine Graphite Powder bought from a Bearing Engineering shop for Neck sizing only (neck dipped in and tapped against the container) and Lee resizing lubricant (use sparingly) for the case body and graphite powder for the neck when Full length sizing.
The minimal residue from the graphite powder can stay in the neck area without any negative effect.
Worked well for me in the last 10 years.

Just wondering, don't have the answer.

I have noticed some mil cartridges were seated with a tarry substance.

Does lubing the neck with grease render a cartridge (more) waterproof, or will good neck tension completely achieve this?

You don't need to buy the Sinclair kit- just get a small jar, empty about 5 shells worth of #9 shot into it and add about 1/3 tsp of Imperial Dry lube (graphite powder). Stir it round about every tenth case dipping and top it up slightly every few months. Works a treat.

Originally Posted by Cordite

Just wondering, don't have the answer.

I have noticed some mil cartridges were seated with a tarry substance.

Does lubing the neck with grease render a cartridge (more) waterproof, or will good neck tension completely achieve this?

May be for preservation in storage?