It is marginal whether you need to anneal when necking 308 down to 7mm. I would skip that stage. Maybe anneal after 5 reload cycles. If you are getting no split necks (and you shouldn't) and good accuracy (consistant neck tension) all is good. Will depend more upon the life of the brass after you start using it - how sloppy is you chamber at the neck, how much work you do to the brass when reloading it. Also water quenching brass increases the annealing, the opposite to quenching steel.
Check your neck wall thickness before and after sizing down. I have found when necking up 6.5-284 brass to 284W that even though I have lubed well the process has introduced a wee bit of neck thickness variation. (If for hunting use probably not an issue.) Didn't matter though as I needed to neck turn for my tight chamber. Also if you neck turn your cases be frugal on how much you remove as this can also create extra brass movement in the chamber when fired and the ultimate need to anneal. Long time past I necked down 30-06 brass to 308W and I didn't bother annealing, only neck turned. I probably should have annealed though as I was necking the section of 06 brass that would have been the hardest in the case. Never experienced any problems in the life of the cases after that though. Re the sense of necking down brass to something that is commercially already available - heh that is the joy of reloading. Go for it, neck away.
When you come to do it do a normal re-size first with 308 die (assuming you have one) but with expander button removed. Put good chamfer on outside of neck, plenty of lube and size to 7mm. The effort required in the press is not great. Again you shouldn't have to anneal particularly only necking down one transition. Different if you were taking it through an intermediate calibre ie 2 sizing steps, which is what needs to be done with some creations. And I am not sure but necking up is probably more devastating for the crystalline structure than down, and up would definitely take the brass through its plastic limit. I have no proof of that gem though.
Been doing a bit of reading and yep, brass would be better annealed using water cooling (as zimmer pointed out this is the opposite to steel and what i was basing my previous post on). Of course still wouldn't be bothered using water as i wouldn't have the patience to wait for them to dry
But firing the case in your rifle is not the same as air cooling after annealing. Annealing you will get the neck of the case much hotter than just firing it in your rifle - well in all my rifles at least as i have never seen a case come out of one of my rifles glowing hot! Hot enough i didn't enjoy it going down the back of my shirt? Absolutely! But i haven't seen one glowing yet!
What was the reason for necking down from 308 to 243?,jjust curious
here's where I ended up.
1 box of LAPUA 308 all run through a LEE f/l die with LEE lube in a LEE hand press.
Loaded,FED 210 43 grn V540 139 SST.
7mm08 SAAMI spec .3150
Loaded round LAPUA .3125
loaded 7mm08 FED .3105
SAAMI chamber spec neck at shoulder .3170 Neck at throat .3160
Fired neckdown case throat .3160
Make of it what you will
Real guns start with the number 3 or bigger and make two holes, one in and one out
sweet
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