Thread: Powder Question

It doesn't have the pressure on the chart but im guessing it would be higher then normal, if so would my 6.5 handle it? its a Carl Gustav its pretty old but barrel seems to be in great nick.

Originally Posted by Toby

It doesn't have the pressure on the chart but im guessing it would be higher then normal, if so would my 6.5 handle it? its a Carl Gustav its pretty old but barrel seems to be in great nick.

i would work up to that. i was running 90 grain Impala bullets with 45 grains of ADI 2208 in a carl gustav action with no issue. but never start on max load.

I see on that chart it has AR2209 44gr using 140gr projectiles going 2620. Is that alright for my gun because I want to use 140s and that powder can be used for the .300wsm 65.5gr going 3050fps using 168gr. Does that seem ok to try first or not?

Originally Posted by Toby

I see on that chart it has AR2209 44gr using 140gr projectiles going 2620. Is that alright for my gun because I want to use 140s and that powder can be used for the .300wsm 65.5gr going 3050fps using 168gr. Does that seem ok to try first or not?

if you know the twist rate of your barrel, the length of your barrel and your muzzle velocity go to the site and run the numbers JBM

Are those loads on those charts max, how many gr down do you go down from to start with,4gr enough?

Originally Posted by Toby

Are those loads on those charts max, how many gr down do you go down from to start with,4gr enough?

they are the max the company has deemed safe to load to for public liability but can go over depending on the action used etc etc more shit then i will ever learn. you should be sweet to start a couple of grains below max. work up in 1/2 grains to be safe.

Barrel is .22" I will get the twist rate from Winchester site. Thanks for the help Mucko.

If I do happen to get to split necks or or discoloration in the brass how much do you back off?

Split necks is a chamber,die, brass thing rather than load. Brass work hardens. It stretches out to the chamber is squeezed in by a die and if full length stretched out again to final size.
Anealing can prolong case life in this instance .

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Show's how much I know, That's what you guys are for until that bloody book gets its ass here. So How do you know your loading too hot?

burns your finger

Originally Posted by Toby

Show's how much I know, That's what you guys are for until that bloody book gets its ass here. So How do you know your loading too hot?

Oh you will know if the load is too hot when, your bolt jams shut after firing, you get the primer extruding into firing pin hole, primer falls out when you open bolt if it has not jammed shut precursor to this one is a bright orange flash and oily smelling smoke right in front of your face and smoke coming out everywhere it should not, Ejector marks on rim of case. No need to load hot anyway you want to load for accuracy over velocity as it will still kill what you put the crosshairs on.

Once you have read your manuals a few times let me know and I will give you some 6.5x55 data to work with that I developed and chronied for a carl gustaf I had and they were deadly accurate loads but only after you have read some manuals first and you must promise to work up to the loads if I give you that data. The barrel twist rate of your carl gustaf is 1:8.5.

Google search what ejector marks, cratered primers and flattened primers look like , they are your most basic and easily noticed pressure signs. it all depends what brass your using. I have only ever had split necks in my 204 and that is from brass fatigue I believe, they have been reloaded many times.


if you are loading the 300wsm buy norma brass. it is just over $100 for 50 pieces and is far superior to winchester at not much greater cost.

when developing loads I usually increase in .5 increments 2.5 grains below stated max. if I still haven't found decent accuracy and haven't seen pressure signs I will push past max a few grains until accuracy improves orppressure signs appear.

reloading is not by any means difficult and is only as complicated as you want to make it. just make sure you do everything right the first time and get into good habits, checking and checking again.

Oh thanks for that tip about brass. How many reloads do you average per shell?

with my 204 I'm using hornady brass which I have found to be terribly inconsistent in weight but don't really care as i can still get .2-.3 inch groups with it. they have only been neck sized and have been loaded 8 or more times.

I have loaded my wsm brass 3 times with only neck sizing. I expect to get 7? reloads.... I really don't no how many i will get.