Thread: Primer question

Originally Posted by zimmer

Ah, almost right. CCI for example have the anvil petals sticking out. With RWS the anvil is flush with the bottom edge of the cup so you cannot preload them or push the anvil back in. With early Murom it was essential to drive the anvil in against the compound. If you didn't there was chances of erratic ignition or no bang at all. Don't know if Murom are still like that.
My practice for target ammo is to preload my BR4s by 1 1/2 thou and BR2s 2 thou preload. You cannot do that with normal priming tools. I currently use a Primal Rights tool. For sporting ammo I just seat by feel with a hand tool.

There is always the risk of overdoing it and crushing the primer material.

Before I started taking care priming I measured some of my early efforts done with an RCBS tool, carefully I thought. All primers were over seated and crushed.

One of the biggest priming issues, and I see the advise on the net, is to seat primers flush with the case base.

OK - RWS shipped sensitized. Nice to know! Presses are a known cause of erratic primer ignition if you are having issues - with a lot of the press designs the primer arm contacts right on the point the lever connections cam 'over center' which gives you very little mechanical feel of what is going on and as noted it's actually really easy to crush the primer. Hand primer devices where your hand is directly connected to the pushy bit without much in the way of linkages give you more feel, and you can usually feel the primer sliding in and the primer cup bottoming into the cases pocket. I'm not too sure for the record that exact primer crush figures make too much of a difference or even a measurable difference for the average shooter - might be something that you can quantify and measure in extreme precision competitions but on the other hand if it makes you happy and improves your confidence in your gear mean. My less than scientific testing, measuring Federal GMM primers in Lapua cases is that the hand primer tools generally get less than a thou of variation in seating depth so a well enough accurate for most purposes. If you have to uniform primer pockets you are likely to end up with greater variation in primer pocket depths depending on how repeatable you are with the uniforming tool!

Seating primers flush I think came out with the US shooters who were having issues in Russian semi's with slam fire. The cause was said to be primers not being seated flush with the bottom of the case and getting set of by the bolt face slamming the case home, which wasn't correct on a few different counts.

Might be time to resurect this thread from last year

https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....primers-79872/

I really want to know why would you?????

if you need to re-resize the case.....if its a big long case you can left primer rod up so it doesnt touch or remove it completely.

many on here will suggest you dont need expander ball at all...

too easy to fire them off in empty case now we have suppressors..but dont try and muffle the hole in end with your new polarfleece coat it will burn wee holes like ciggy burns.

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

I really want to know why would you?????

if you need to re-resize the case.....if its a big long case you can left primer rod up so it doesnt touch or remove it completely.

many on here will suggest you dont need expander ball at all...

too easy to fire them off in empty case now we have suppressors..but dont try and muffle the hole in end with your new polarfleece coat it will burn wee holes like ciggy burns.

How do you know :-)

lets just say I have a polarfleece vest that looks like it was owned by a smoker.....