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Thread: Reloading the .338 Lapua

  1. #16
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    Use Lapua brass , you will get about 10 reloads out of it normally , like its been said , donot use Norma brass in this calibre , as you will get only 1-2 firings out of IT , before its toast .

    I would steer clear of redding dies in this calibre , because I have heard of a few shooters buying redding dies in this calibre and when sizing actually splitting the die in two , I would look at forester .

    Also be aware some brass makers use slightly different head sizes , a shell holder that fits Lapua brass , will not fit RUAG brass .

    If hunting use Sierra , if punching paper , use Lapua , and use 250gr , unless you are shooting past 1500m , then look at 300gr .

  2. #17
    Member dogmatix's Avatar
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    Good point Chris, I remember seeing a few split Redding dies.
    I prefer Forster dies anyway, as I hate the Redding locking ring how it screws into the thread and the Forster F/L has the drain hole to prevent lube build up denting the shoulder, whereas the Redding has none.
    Welcome to Sako club.

  3. #18
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    Ok, so I should consider getting a Redding competition shellholder set, plus Forster FL die and Redding bushing neck die?

  4. #19
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    I am using forster fl and seating dies with a hornady neck sizing die.
    My load is lapua brass with 92 g of 2225 215m primer and the 285 amax all running through a trg42 1/10 twist
    This is the result which is about as good asi can shoot so load done!
    veitnamcam and Driverman like this.
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  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisF View Post
    Use Lapua brass , you will get about 10 reloads out of it normally , like its been said , donot use Norma brass in this calibre , as you will get only 1-2 firings out of IT , before its toast .

    I would steer clear of redding dies in this calibre , because I have heard of a few shooters buying redding dies in this calibre and when sizing actually splitting the die in two , I would look at forester .

    Also be aware some brass makers use slightly different head sizes , a shell holder that fits Lapua brass , will not fit RUAG brass .

    If hunting use Sierra , if punching paper , use Lapua , and use 250gr , unless you are shooting past 1500m , then look at 300gr .
    Interseting , This week along we have done 3x 338 LM load developments all using Norma Brass (Blaser Tac 2 , Nesika and Sako TRG ) and using our Redding Workshop dies , No problems , Have loaded an additional 200 reloads for customers using the same , many of these are well past the 1-2 firings and are showing no case problems , Not sure where everyone is having problems , maybe we are not loading as hot as everyone else.

  6. #21
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    Maybe Norma , have changed their brass , in the past they where well known for 1 ) being 1/2 the price of Lapua brass & 2 ) Not lasting more than 1-2 firings .

    Some one point me to a shop that has the 285gr Amax in stock ?

    Later Chris

  7. #22
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    have plenty of the Match but no A-Max sorry

  8. #23
    L.R
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    Yep I'd agree it's quite possible that Norma has changed their 338 Lapua brass since I last used it. I have been using 338 Norma mag brass and that is fine although still a lot softer than Lapua brass is.
    I still don't know of anyone shooting lapua's or wildcats based on the brass and using Norma brass, I think it's worth the extra money to go to the very resilient Lapua brass.

  9. #24
    Terminator Products Kiwi Greg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisF View Post
    Maybe Norma , have changed their brass , in the past they where well known for 1 ) being 1/2 the price of Lapua brass & 2 ) Not lasting more than 1-2 firings .

    Some one point me to a shop that has the 285gr Amax in stock ?

    Later Chris
    I have plenty Chris
    Contact me for reloading components, brass, projectiles, powder, primers, etc

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  10. #25
    Terminator Products Kiwi Greg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by L.R View Post
    Yep I'd agree it's quite possible that Norma has changed their 338 Lapua brass since I last used it. I have been using 338 Norma mag brass and that is fine although still a lot softer than Lapua brass is.
    I still don't know of anyone shooting lapua's or wildcats based on the brass and using Norma brass, I think it's worth the extra money to go to the very resilient Lapua brass.
    I made some 338 Norma Mag brass from Lapua 338 Lapua Mag brass years ago & couldn't gain any significant advantage from the Lapua brass.

    But that is in that case only & on a big Barnard action, it is possible that the Norma 338 Norma brass is better/stronger than their "normal" offerings.

    Necked down & on a weaker action it may well be a different story....

    In 338 Lapua mag you need to run at least a grain normally 2+ less powder with Norma brass over Lapua, having said that the Norma brass appears to be "better" brass, way more consistent than the Lapua brass, but again this is talking solely about the 338 Lapua Mag cartridge.

    A very wise man with years of experience with the 338 Lapua told be once "it was almost like the Lapua 338 Lapua Mag brass wasn't made by Lapua as it was wasn't as good as normal Lapua brass"....

    Unless you are trying to get the "absolute most" out of the 338 Lapua mag I would use Norma over Lapua....
    Contact me for reloading components, brass, projectiles, powder, primers, etc

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  11. #26
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    Ok, so from the look of it, I ought to get my hands on a Redding type S bushing neck die, body die, competition bullet seating die and shell-holder set? I have decided to go with Lapua brass, too. Cheers

 

 

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